Recent Posts

1

Interior Structures / Re: P323 V-Berth Sliding Door

« Last post by selene on January 25, 2020, 01:10:10 PM »

In my opinion, MDF (medium density fiberboard) is never a good choice in a marine environment.  It will absorb water and change shape.

What he said.

My door is melamine-faced marine (I assume) ply. Teak-faced ply would look great, bu I can't source it anywhere. I reckon marine ply which is sealed - I would probably epoxy and paint - would look just as good, and hold up well. BTW, depending on your source, it may be worth buying the ply and simply storing it for a while. The stuff Home Depot sells is often high moisture, and sometimes warps over the next couple of months, even after you sorted through a dozen sheets to find a good one.  Okay for construction, risky for quality work.

FWIW my door also has small plastic spacers riding on the Al track. Like Ed, I lube it every year...and like Ed, it still does not slide that well.

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Interior Structures / Re: P323 V-Berth Sliding Door

« Last post by Dolce_Vita on January 24, 2020, 11:43:14 AM »

We had been told the door was manufactured with Melamine on MDF so that is the material we used to have a local shop build it for us. But after a few years sitting on the track it warped significantly. Either the shop did not do a quality job or MDF is not the proper material to use - I suspect the latter.

In my opinion, MDF (medium density fiberboard) is never a good choice in a marine environment.  It will absorb water and change shape.

Our door appears to be made of double-sided teak-venier (marine?) plywood.

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Interior Structures / Re: P323 V-Berth Sliding Door

« Last post by SeaFever on January 24, 2020, 10:57:56 AM »

Thanks for the feedback, it sounds like the original track design may have been marginal - hence the original door had been removed from the boat before we got it.

We had been told the door was manufactured with Melamine on MDF so that is the material we used to have a local shop build it for us. But after a few years sitting on the track it warped significantly. Either the shop did not do a quality job or MDF is not the proper material to use - I suspect the latter.

Since the doorway is more square at the top, and the door is heavy, we are considering a barn door style track with rollers at the top. 

4

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Changing prop from 2 to 3 blades on P31-2

« Last post by Last Resort on January 21, 2020, 09:46:14 PM »

I'd recommend you DON'T DO IT!!!  I did just that and accomplished nothing but losing money on the resale of the 3 blade prop. I lost almost half of my reserve power, and the 3 blades did nothing for my forward speed except produce ALOT of turbulence on my rudder. If you presently have a 16d x 11p (the usual one installed), I would suggest going to a 15d x 11p. I did just that and what a difference. I can now reach RPMs of 3300, whereas before 2600 was the most, and can now maintain at least 4kts against steady waves, whereas before I would get knocked back to 1kt, and I only lost a bit of reverse power and haven't even really noticed any higher fuel consumption, although I'm sure there is    If you still want to pursue a 3 blade though, make sure it's equivalent to a 15x11, NOT 16x11 2 blade as I got since there's NO improvement.  Mine was a Campbell 14d x 8p, so maybe try 13 or 13.5. The prop seller will be able to advise you better. 
Good Luck!!!

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Website and Forum Suggestions / MOVED: Changing prop from 2 to 3 blades on P31-2

« Last post by admin on January 21, 2020, 06:19:55 PM »

This topic has been moved to Engine and Drive Train.

https://www.pearson323.com/forum/index.php?topic=928.0

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P32 / Re: Worn Rudder Pivot plate

« Last post by libertyflyer on January 18, 2020, 09:56:57 PM »

Ordered and received the new screws nuts and washers from Albany County Fasteners.  You can order in single units, and shipping and handling is realistic.  Jamestown sold by the box, and shipping was ridiculous

Had the part welded with silicon bronze by Eugene @ 5 Star Welding. Wasn’t cheap, $200, but was necessary.

See below the welded part.  Now to locate center, measure the diameter of the rudder pin, and drill a new hole. 

I found the ground wire to the bolts rusted off. Wondering if this is what caused the excessive wear to The bronze.. 

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Engine and Drive Train / Changing prop from 2 to 3 blades on P31-2

« Last post by justbreath on January 18, 2020, 01:22:31 PM »

I have recently purchased a P31-2 with a yanmar 2GM20F 18 hp diesel. It came with a 2 blade prop. I would like to change it to a 3 blade. has anyone out here done such a change.Can anyone give me hints on how to proceed.
Any info would be most helpfull.

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Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Epoxy instead of Varnish??

« Last post by Dolce_Vita on January 16, 2020, 11:08:49 AM »

Years ago, a different friend tried PlasTEAK (https://www.plasteak.com/)  .

He sent them his old trim rings and they replicated them in PlasTEAK. 

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Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Epoxy instead of Varnish??

« Last post by Valor on January 15, 2020, 06:24:33 PM »

I was going to use starboard but I wanted the character that wood brings to an older boat. Mine are much longer in total length then the actual opening. I will post a few pictures over the next few days. I will admit, the starboard makes for a really clean application.

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Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Epoxy instead of Varnish??

« Last post by Alma on January 15, 2020, 06:17:17 PM »

The comingbox openings are identical on many Pearsons.

I made new ones from Starboard. I almost cried over the amount of material the router ate up!

They have held up perfectly for over ten years now.

If you do use Starboard make sure it 'floats' a little since it expands and contracts more than the fiberglass- Slightly smaller screws with washers and lock nuts behind.