Recent Posts

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1
Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Refinishing the bright work
« Last post by Alma on Today at 03:52:26 PM »
Lovely. And judging by the finish on your cleats that 323 has a charmed life. She looks like she sleeps in bed with you except for a month or so in July.

So nice.

Alma has a different tack on TEAK- ELIMINATE!
2
Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Refinishing the bright work
« Last post by Dolce_Vita on May 14, 2021, 08:22:30 AM »
Hi Everyone, After years of trying to keep up with the teak toe rails and coamings I finally surrendered and sanded it all down to bare teak and used Semco teak sealer. The teak looks like It's new with a matte finish. The sealer locks in the natural teak oil and I only had to reapply another coat at the end of the season. All you have to do is wipe it on with a lint free rag and wipe off. It honestly takes me less than an hour compared to 2-3 weeks dodging the weather sanding and varnishing. This is the first spring that I was able to tackle other projects and it feels liberating. Cheers!

I've had the same experience using Teak Wonder sealer.  Lasts almost a whole season here on the Chesapeake.  Easy application, easy cleanup.  I figure its about 80% the look of varnished teak for 10% of the work.  I'll take that trade any day!
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Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Refinishing the bright work
« Last post by paul on May 13, 2021, 07:05:55 PM »
Hi Everyone, After years of trying to keep up with the teak toe rails and coamings I finally surrendered and sanded it all down to bare teak and used Semco teak sealer. The teak looks like It's new with a matte finish. The sealer locks in the natural teak oil and I only had to reapply another coat at the end of the season. All you have to do is wipe it on with a lint free rag and wipe off. It honestly takes me less than an hour compared to 2-3 weeks dodging the weather sanding and varnishing. This is the first spring that I was able to tackle other projects and it feels liberating. Cheers!
4
Hi All,

I am replacing my Volvo 858065 raw water pump which came with a two piece "anchor" that held the slip joints and hose on the inlet and outlet sides. I am installing, instead, a Johnson (10-35157) British Standard Pipe (BSP) threaded pump (thank you Rusty Pelican for pumpvendor.com tip in one of your postings).  I need to find two 3/8" BSP bronze male threaded pipe to barb fittings somewhere online, but I can only find NPT.  Does anyone know of an online source of BSP threaded pipe (it must be bronze, not brass)?  Your help would be greatly appreciated. 

Alternatively, I can order the pump with slip joints on either side and use the anchors to secure them, but I have never worked with slip joints before and I am concerned I will not know how to install them without leaks.  Can anyone tell me how tightening the slip joints work? Thanks.
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General Discussion / Re: 1978 Pearson 323 cutless bearing replacement
« Last post by Alma on May 11, 2021, 02:15:25 PM »
If you sail down to Barnegat Bay let us know for a get-together.
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General Discussion / Re: Yachtworld
« Last post by Alma on May 11, 2021, 02:04:32 PM »
30 Seasons! You've got me beat at 26.

I would so love to sail the Lakes.

Enjoy your season!

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General Discussion / Re: Bronze Prop Shaft Problems
« Last post by Alma on May 11, 2021, 01:54:47 PM »
I had to replace my bronze shaft with a stainless Aquamet one.

Now I have a  stainless shaft underwater and everything else is bronze.

A bronze shaft will bend and take the force of a collision. I know, mine looked like a pretzel after an incident that would've likely ripped the strut out of the boat had the shaft been stiff and strong stainless steel.

The bronze shafting acted like a 'fuse' and took the brunt of the damage. I was able to have the bronze strut straightened with a huge press at a machine shop.

If I had a choice I'd stay with a bronze shaft. But finding one isn't easy.





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For Sale and Wanted / WANTED! A Pearson 367
« Last post by Calypso on May 11, 2021, 11:32:56 AM »
Anyone with a Pearson 367, 1981 or 1982  please get in contact with me!  I want this boat.  There weren't that many made, so I'm having trouble finding one. I recently sold a smaller Pearson, and like the design of the 367. 
Harry
917-287-8358
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Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: fresh water holding tanks
« Last post by grzano on May 08, 2021, 10:36:37 PM »
Hi,

I use pipe thread sealant, it comes in liquid form. Teflon tape is not really a sealant, it lubricates the threads and makes it easy to over tighten the fitting. Finger tight and perhaps a turn or less, use your judgement, or watch some of the videos on youtube for more pointers.
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Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: What was this for?
« Last post by grzano on May 08, 2021, 10:27:52 PM »
I am on my second 323, lost the first one to a battery fire, make sure that your battery terminals are clean and do not move.

On that boat, both the shower and refer drained directly into the bilge. I the heat of one summer, I could not figure out what the foul smell on the boat was. As Dolce_Vita pointed out, it was sludge in the bilge, that was alive with bacteria, each of those little cells farting, (off gassing), made the boat unlivable. A few rounds with a pressure washer (a low pressure one) at the dock, bilge cleaner, a fresh coat of bilge paint  and some 30 hours later, In installed a shower sump tank and plumbed the ice box drain into that. Magically, the issue was resolved. My new used 323 has the sink pump configuration and I plan on keeping it in place to drain the fridge. I did rebuild it over the winter and it works like a champ. I also replaced the shower sump, the old one was really old and seemed to be cracking and wasting away.

I think next I'll invest in an air head and just rip that old holding tank out. No matter what I did on my last 323, the thing always starts to smell when it gets hot, new plastic tank, new Y valves, anti siphon vents and all new hoses, $600.00, +/- a few hundred, and the thing still stank.

All the best.
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