Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?

[Blue Heron]

Our cabin sole is tired, and I am looking for options. I have considered trying to replace it with a new teak and holly plywood veneer, but I am a bit hesitant to tackle that.

Has anyone had success either replacing the wood floor, or installing something else?
Any tips/tricks/advice much appreciated!

Thanks

Chet

[Bill1188]

Last October, I removed all the flooring. Split and remove bungs, remove screws, pull floor up in three major sections. Took them home and removed all the old finish with a heat gun. Palm sanded it with 200 grit. Now putting on coats of semi-gloss urethane. Gotta tell you, looks like a million bucks. I have a talented friend who was going to make me a new floor in oak with ash inlay, but the old floor has been resurrected. Can't wait 'til spring to install.

[Rusty Pelican]

The teak and holly deck is significantly thicker than what's on modern boats, I have never measured the thickness; but I think it is 3/8's thick.
You can refinish the deck in place with an palm sander and one of those tiny detail sanders.
I have done mine twice in 33 years and it looks great.

[Dolce_Vita]

The teak and holly deck is significantly thicker than what's on modern boats, I have never measured the thickness; but I think it is 3/8's thick.
You can refinish the deck in place with an palm sander and one of those tiny detail sanders.
I have done mine twice in 33 years and it looks great.

Not on mine.  The veneer is paper thin.  In places with water damage, the holly strips have peeled off, exposing the plywood beneath.  A floor replacement is on my to-do-list.

[Rusty Pelican]

I guess I got lucky, solid cabin deck. The floor access hatches are solid as well

[Alma]

One of the things that sold me on #74 was the lack of plywood cabin sole. More important to me than the finish was the loss of headroom...

Are your bilge hatches fiberglass Pelican? Mine are heavy plywood with vinyl covering. I DID replace the teak hatch supports with aluminum angle.

I've often thought of making fine teak bilge hatches since the finishing and maintenance would be manageable since they could be brought home...

'Admiral nixed that one- "Why create aggravation?" Gotta love that girl!

[Blue Heron]

Last October, I removed all the flooring. Split and remove bungs, remove screws, pull floor up in three major sections. Took them home and removed all the old finish with a heat gun. Palm sanded it with 200 grit. Now putting on coats of semi-gloss urethane. Gotta tell you, looks like a million bucks. I have a talented friend who was going to make me a new floor in oak with ash inlay, but the old floor has been resurrected. Can't wait 'til spring to install.

Bill1188 - I wish I could get away with that, but I have a couple sections (one beneath the main cabin hatch which must have leaked for a while before I bought it) that are pretty badly de-laminated, and a number of the holly strips have been dislodged. What's the floor like like beneath the wood you removed? Is it a nice pan that a person could just carpet over?
Sounds like your floor will look fantastic when you re-install...post pictures!
Thanks,
Chet
Thanks

[Blue Heron]

I guess I got lucky, solid cabin deck. The floor access hatches are solid as well

Yep, you did get lucky! Mine is just like that described by Dolce_Vita.

[Bill1188]

Blue Heron, mine is a white pan under the floor. My wood is lucky, no delaminations and sufficient thickness. I am going to screw the floor back down and replace the bungs. Should look like new. Carpet would not be bad. White floor finished in non skid might be an option. I am going to leave the table pole out. Without it the interior seems twice the size.

[Dolce_Vita]

Bill1188 - I wish I could get away with that, but I have a couple sections (one beneath the main cabin hatch which must have leaked for a while before I bought it) that are pretty badly de-laminated, and a number of the holly strips have been dislodged. ...

Even if the wood is delaminated, you can remove it carefully and use the pieces as a template for cutting the replacements.  Will save a whole lot of time.

Mine, like yours, has delamination near the ladder and under the deck hatch.  The deck hatches used to leak badly when we bought her, but are tight now after we rebuilt them.

[Rusty Pelican]

My bilge hatches are solid teak and holly, with a marine plywood cut out on the bottom to fit correctly on the cabin sole. The teak and holly lies on top of a glass sub deck. My entire cabin sole is all teak and holly, no glass.
The teak and holly sole was an upgrade option,as were many aspects with the P323.  The standard cabin sole was glass.  I would guess that your boat was factory glass and along the way an owner added a teak holly overlay.
I have seen the factory glass cabin sole boats and it looks like there are obvious spots for an overlay. I don't think you could cover the entire sole with an overlay, just spots; but I could be wrong.
 

[Blue Heron]

My bilge hatches are solid teak and holly, with a marine plywood cut out on the bottom to fit correctly on the cabin sole. The teak and holly lies on top of a glass sub deck. My entire cabin sole is all teak and holly, no glass.
The teak and holly sole was an upgrade option,as were many aspects with the P323.  The standard cabin sole was glass.  I would guess that your boat was factory glass and along the way an owner added a teak holly overlay.
I have seen the factory glass cabin sole boats and it looks like there are obvious spots for an overlay. I don't think you could cover the entire sole with an overlay, just spots; but I could be wrong.
 

i think mine is likely the factory option. My entire sole is also teak and holly, with the only visible pan being in the head area where there is a teak grate over the shower pan. My floor is also pretty thick, for instance, when I remove the small cutout/hatch around the mast, it is probably at least 1/2" thick. I'll take a better look at it, and maybe post a couple pictures next time I get out there (a couple weeks).

[Blue Heron]

Even if the wood is delaminated, you can remove it carefully and use the pieces as a template for cutting the replacements.  Will save a whole lot of time.

Dolce_Vita, If I go forward with the replacement, that is exactly what I hope to do. I am just a bit worried about being able to make the bilge cut-outs with a nice tight fit, with the edges trimmed out and all. That part looks to be some pretty nice craftsmanship! Actually, the whole floor was very nicely done...it is a shame that the previous owner let it go for that long.

[Blue Heron]

Blue Heron, mine is a white pan under the floor. My wood is lucky, no delaminations and sufficient thickness. I am going to screw the floor back down and replace the bungs. Should look like new. Carpet would not be bad. White floor finished in non skid might be an option. I am going to leave the table pole out. Without it the interior seems twice the size.

Thanks for confirming that. I too have thought about removing the table pole, but, being able to position the table like that is so darn handy! I often position at a standing table height for working on various projects, and the ability to spin the table sideways allows use from the starboard side settee as well. I always raise it to the ceiling when not in use too, so, I am afraid I would really miss it if I took it out.

[Bill1188]

At 6'5", if I put the table to the ceiling, I'm going to keep hitting my coconut on it. I am going to go with a new table positioned with the floor and table flanges spaced withe the fluted pipe. That way, I can put the whole thing away to really open up the cabin, use the table, and place the table for the double berth.