looking for replacement teak rubrail strips

[The Great Godsea]

starboard rub rail has several pieces needing replacing. does anyone have a suggestion where we can purchase? thank you

[Dolce_Vita]

Unfortunately, these will have to be custom fabricated from teak stock by a woodworker.

And I'm afraid it may turn into a major project.  The 323's two-piece rubrail design (top & side) makes it a more complex fabrication than a single strip.  The top surface portion appears to be built up out of a number of pieces that were scarf-jointed together before bending them to match the curve of the hull.

And of course, all of the deck hardware that's fastened through them (genoa track, bow & stern pulpits, stern light, etc) will have to be removed, and then reinstalled and rebedded.

Mine are in poor shape too, but I've been putting off doing anything about them.

If your boatyard has a resident woodworker, I suggest striking up a conversation with him and seeing what he thinks.  He may even know some tricks to make the job easier.

[The Great Godsea]

thank you. solid advice

[selene]

As Ed said, replacing the whole shebang would be a daunting undertaking. On the plus side, I am intending to rebed most of my hardware (over time) anyway, to ensure the core stays dry (drill oversize hole, fill with epoxy, redrill - so no exposed plywood)

My rubrails are 1/8"+ thinner than they started out, but still usable (barely).  I now don't sand them too much before finishing, as there is so little wood left, so the ridges show under close inspection - but it looks great a few feet away.  However, I did have to repair a 2"x 4" chunk out of one side....I used a "dutchman" repair (like this: http://www.blacksashvt.com/portfolio/charles-keeler-house-window-restoration/4242618).  So depending on the pieces needing replacement, some repairs may be possible. A competent woodworker can do a lot, but teak is EXPENSIVE (at least in CA), and you need to look at the remaining wood to see if it is worth doing the repair.

I wonder how the top and bottom/side pieces are joined?  Replacement of a side piece *could* be fairly straightforward; a strip of teak cut to size and shape, bent into place - the curve is very gentle - with scarf joints feathering the repair to the remaining wood.  Much easier than the top rail due to the orientation of the grain.  Screws and a gentle adhesive/caulking (4200 maybe?) would hold it.

I bet they steamed big pieces for the top rail, clamped them until they cooled, and then ripped them to make boards for the curves.  Economies of scale would have made it relatively inexpensive.

[The Great Godsea]

Thanks very much. will post once i've figured out my plan of attack and located the right stock.

[Libations Too]

A while back I found a blog/website by the owner of a Pearson 367 cutter named FarAway. The owner had made extensive upgrades to the boat in preparation for a world cruise. One of the upgrades was to remove all of the teak toe rail (rub rail and cap rail) and reform the bulwark with fiberglass. This eliminated the maintenance associated with the original teak, which I believe was of the same two-part construction as we have on our 323s. I think this work was combined with some work at the bow for a new mounting base for a windlass and perhaps some other mods. If I am not mistaken new stanchion bases were also fabricated and installed at the same time.

Such a project may or may not be beyond the scope of what you want to do with your 323 but I found the outcome quite appealing. I'll admit to a healthy love affair with my varnished teak brightwork but at the same time I would NOT miss the two times a year varnishing chore that I have now. The opportunity to inspect, strengthen, or repair the deck-to-hull joint at the same time is also there if needed.

[Dolce_Vita]

...My rubrails are 1/8"+ thinner than they started out, but still usable (barely).  I now don't sand them too much before finishing, as there is so little wood left, ...

Mine are like that too.  The bow pulpit bases look like they're standing on little teak pads. 
But the worse part is that the wood plugs over the screws are now so thin that many of them have started to pop off.