Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?

[Rusty Pelican]

Blue Heron, I have the same cabin deck configuration and a head grate. 
I also would like to get rid of the table, but I do not know what to replace it with

[Blue Heron]

You guys and gals will get a kick out this...Just for kicks I asked the boatyard to give me an estimate to replace my teak and holly sole and they came back with $8000. I guess they really don't want to do it.
LOL!!!

Chet

[Dolce_Vita]

That is pretty far out there!

5 1/2 years ago, when we bought our boat, the cabin sole was badly delaminated in places.  Based on estimates then, we got a $2000 adjustment off of the NADA "blue book" price.

[Blue Heron]

Bill1188- was the floor just screwed down? Or also glued?

BTW, I found a guy who owns a company that works on a lot of old Lyman boats and does LOTS of custom woodwork. He will use my old pieces for patterns and make new pieces for me. Also, I'm thinking about just going with Teak veneer as opposed to Teak and Holly veneer. He says it will save me some money by reducing his labor hours (he won't have to line up all the holly strips). I saw some pictures of cabin soles done in the teak and looks great too. Also, mentioned that when I install the new pieces, I might want to consider using decorative bronze screws as opposed to covering the screws with wood bungs. I also saw pictures of this, and looks good as well...they do this on Lyman boats and use special Lyman inverted bronze washers. That way, the pieces can be pre-finished when I install them, as opposed to having to sand and re-finish inside the cabin. He claims that the bronze will get a patina when aged and they basically blend right in with the teak.


Chet

[Dolce_Vita]

Bronze screws instead of bungs, what a great idea!  I too struggled with coming up with a way to pre finish the pieces to minimize the mess in the boat, and this sounds really promising. 

Do you have any pictures you can post, or sources for the screws?

[Bill1188]

I took the floor out of my boat last fall and refinished over the winter. This is what I am going to do to install. I eliminated at least half of the screws to the floor, blanking off the holes with teak bungs cut flush with a Japanese Saw. The remaining holes will mount the floor at strategic points. I am flush mounting countersunk washers obtained from Lee Valley, a supply company for furniture making hobbyists. I am then going to epoxy in machine screw inserts in the respective holes in the floor pan. Then when I drop the floor panel in, I can machine screw it to the floor. I went with brass washers and marine screws. This will make it so easy to remove the floor down the road, rather than chipping out a bunch of bungs.

[Blue Heron]

Ed, this is a snapshot of what I think he uses as far as screws and washers. Available at www.lymanboat.com. Also, I've asked him to email photoes of the cabin soles he has installed with the screws, and I will post if I get them

[Blue Heron]

Bill, when you removed your floor, was it glued as well as screwed?

Thanks,

Chet

[Bill1188]

Floor was not glued. Once the overwhelming number of bungs were chipped out, the screws had to be removed. Use your best Phillips screwdriver as to not round out the heads. Floor came out easy. 37 years of dirt took awhile to clean up. Heat gun off the old finish. Light palm sanding so as to not go through the veneer. 8 coats semi gloss polyurethane. All in as of last weekend. Looks like a million bucks. I also removed the table pole as it is not structural. Furniture maker friend made me a new table, complete with fiddles. Being able to stow the table when not in use, and not having the pole, makes the cabin feel twice its size.