Pearson Yachts Forum
Pearson Boats - Common Systems => Plumbing and Galley Systems => Topic started by: Valor on April 14, 2017, 06:26:59 PM
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Hey Everyone.
Hope someone can help me out with a problem I am having with a through hull fitting. The Starboard side through hull in which the cockpit scupper is connected to is completely seized. I have loosened the 2 nuts on the back side of the fitting applied PB Blaster for the past few day and I gingerly tried to persuade it with a 3 foot pipe, tap it with a hammer. Nothing. Is there a trick to these things? I was told if you take the 2 nuts off of the back, the entire valve body should come apart. Can someone help me out here?
Michael
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What you have there is a Wilcox & Crittenden through hull. It is entirely made of bronze, properly maintained it will last forever.
The shut off handle is connected to the through hull valve, which is shaped like a cone.
Do not attempt to fix it while in the water.
Once hauled out I would do this:
1. Remove deck scupper hose.
2 Remove the nut on the side of the scupper
3. Try to get WD40 etc in between the valve and the main body and wait.
4 If that does not work, heat the main body with a propane torch. The old lube sometimes hardens up.
5 If that does not work remove the unit from the boat. Unscrew from the outside. There are two flanges on the inside of the outside fitting.
6 Once on a bench heat and wack( use wood to protect the valve stem)the end of the valve stem.
Good Luck
BobG
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Agreed! You will soon find out if you are one of either two camps-
Keep the old WC bronze tapered cone seacocks and grease them every year or so FOREVER
OR- Install Chinese ball valves that don't leak for five years and then need replacement.
I've have good luck with the old Bronze cocks. I pull the cones out and clean and grease them every year or so.
I use a piece of 400 grade sandpaper wrapped around the cone and loosely turn it in the housing. Reverse and clean the cone...
You'll find the cast nuts not exactly metric or SAE.... I ground a couple of cheap wrenches to fit.
This year after an afternoon on my knees I was calculating my sailing lifespan VS the cost/life of ball valves.
Once finished I was glad I had the old ones back shipshape.
For years I used trailer grease with OK results. now I use a water(proof) green grease- Greengrease.net
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WC made their own threads, it's called the Chrittenden thread.
The reason I know this is because the deck fill covers are from WC with the WC thread too.. I lost one overboard, no deck fill cover fits.
I did not want to replace my water deck fill hose.
Luckily, I found a used WC fuel filler at a shipyard.
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Yes me too. Funny the deck fill caps do not float! It is the first thing I look for on a salvage boat...
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Thank you very much for that info. @Bob, just so I understand, The valve is removed by un-threading the thru hull fitting from outside of the boat, correct? Is there a special tool needed to spin the thru hull and if so, where do you get it since they don't make the valve anymore? My boat is currently on the hard, if I wrap any wires or hoses near the valve with aluminum foil and use a heat gun on the seacock, could that free it up? Thanks again!
Michael M
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Yes, you are correct on how to remove the seacock.
There was (or is) a tool somewhere. I just jury rigged a tool to do the job.
Try the torch/heat gun fix first, it may free it up.
I use anhydrous lanolin as my lube for all my seacocks, rigging and stanchions
BobG
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Thank you for your help!
Michael M