Messages

16

Plumbing and Galley Systems / LP tank on pearson 323

« on: October 24, 2017, 07:27:31 PM »

Has any one replace their regulator and sight glass for lp tanks on pearson 323 ?

17

P31 / Re: Water logged sole over the bilge.

« on: October 19, 2017, 01:05:25 AM »

On Chance 1977 pearson 323 hull 10 in 2012 , replace the old teak and holly floor.  Install a new teak holly plywood floor and edge trim all bilge access with solid teak  on the floor and access panels .  It took 2 sheets  4x8 feet for the hole cabin sole .  Make sure you line the holly up in the main cabin. It require three pieces from the two sheet.  With enough left to do the fore peak and chart table floor. To protect this project ,I put three to four coat of Clear West epoxy  on all 6 sides of each piece .  If you have out gassing  problems , bubbles talk to West Epoxy techs  for advice.  I then put on four coats of gloss varnish on expose surfaces that will be seen after install . Then screw in place and bung the screw holes .Two more coat of varnish to cover the bungs.  In 2017 spring put another two coats  . The sole looks great and wears real well . If you use wood again make sure you seal  it with epoxy all six sides it well never rot. Good luck Bob K

18

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Internal Halyards

« on: October 15, 2017, 10:20:36 PM »

On Chance we have two internal jib halyards .One internal main halyard. Add another crane for two external spinnaker halyards. We do race  a lot with crew, so we do sail peels  or changes including spinnakers.  Set one inside the other,to down size or up size .Never really found slapping inside if pull tight on halyard winches. I would be very concern coming off  spin crane to mast sheave on pearson 323 being  your talking about line not cable halyards.Make  sure put your exits at different heights not do weaken the spar.  Bob K  Chance Hull 10    1977    Owner 40 years.

19

P10M / Re: 10M Owners

« on: October 15, 2017, 08:36:43 PM »

Yes remove the compass .Two small 6/32 bolts and power splice to light in the compass. You now have access to the brake and steering chain sprocket. We have done this on Chance 323 Pearson  hull !0 for 40 years. Now you  can solve your brake problem and lube the chain and brake. Bob K

20

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Removing Atomic 4

« on: September 20, 2017, 10:05:22 PM »

Gene,
You might take the alternator off after first pick.  It's easy to get at.  I did not and Moyer Marine did not touch the transmission and V drive, except to change the fluid, and inspect the gears.

Bob K Chance 323 1977

21

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Removing Atomic 4

« on: September 18, 2017, 07:21:04 PM »

I have hull number 10, since 1977, Chance. We have done a great deal of motoring in the last 40 years.  I have removed the entire engine and the V-drive 3 times myself.  Last time I shipped the engine out to Moyer Marine. The entire engine and the v-drive will come out of the opening hatch by the ladder in one piece.  Before starting, cover the bulk head so you don't scratch it.  My experience is to label everything on both ends of the hoses and do some simple drawings so you know how to get it back into place.  Label everything, wires, hoses, etc.  Remove the silverware storage bin behind the ladder on top the counter (four screws).  Take a 4 x 4 and span your hatch opening with two feet extending on each side.  Put some 2 x 4s under the 4 x 4s to spread the weight out.  Now hook on a come along or lifting device onto the engine lift bracket located on the head of the engine and connect to the 4 x 4 - you will need to do the first pick through the silverware opening.  Lift engine off mounting brackets, then shift the 4 x 4 towards the bow.  Simultaneously, pull the engine out as far as you can into the main cabin as you lower it onto scrap lumber.  If you have a crane available, pick from this location through the hatch.  If not, unhook engine, reposition your 4 x 4 to complete a second pick that is outside of your silverware drawer.  Crank the engine up off the floor as high as you can, then lay some plywood down on the bridge deck and set there.  At this point, two guys could pick up and move to bridge deck too and even off the boat. You could also hook onto your boom with the support of halyards and take it off that way.  After cleaning and painting your engine compartment, it's easy to set back up similar to how you took out.  When you have it back in and mounted, you can do a rough realignment of the prop shaft to the engine.  You should really realign once the boat is in the water as needed - you do this with feeler gauges. Adjust the mounting screws on your engine so you can get prop shaft aligned with the engine. Good luck! Bob K (Chance #10) if you have questions, let me know.

22

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: sump pump switch

« on: May 19, 2017, 08:45:51 PM »

On Chance 1977 P323 the switch for the sink is the same as the shower drain next to the 120 volt receptacle in the head.  We put a cork in the drain for shower  when not in use . This will increase your suction to the sink. The pump is located under the bin next to the mast . I  installed a y valve before this pump and short hose to bilge for a backup bilge pump .                                                                                     Bob K

23

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: No name winches?

« on: May 18, 2017, 10:19:31 PM »

I own Hull 10 Pearson 323 1977 Chance

Our secondary winches now were our original primaries on the boat.  Back in 1977 they were 2 speed Lewmar 40 winches made in England.  1 Lewmar 8 for the Main, mounted on the mast, and 1 Lewmar 16 for Jib/Genoa, also mounted on the mast.  Both were single speed.  On top of the winches is a round plate that states the size and maker of the winch.  I had covers on my winches for years so I could still read the size and maker information on the round plate.

Bob K
Chance

24

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Fuel tank

« on: May 18, 2017, 10:13:05 PM »

I own Hull 10 Pearson 323 1977 Chance

My fuel tank is for an Atomic 4 gas engine, and I believe it is aluminum.  It's still in great shape and I check the strapping on the tank, along with the steering every spring.  Chance has been in fresh water all 40 years, except for one year when we did the Loop. 

Bob K
Chance

25

P323 / P323 TIPS: Refrigeration, Asymmetric Spinnaker, General Maintenance

« on: August 05, 2016, 08:55:53 AM »

While you have your locker peg board out and access to this area, take time to check all fittings for loose bolts & nuts, especially on the steering and the mounts.  Check cable with a tissue for broken strands.  I have replaced mine a few years ago.  If okay, lube cable & grease.  Check where rudder post comes in for leakage water marks.  I replaced my packing a few years ago. Check winch bolt & nuts and traveler.  This is done on Chance [Hull 10] pre spring launch every year.  It’s good seamanship & peace of mind.

Another subject concerning ice box insulation.  39 years ago I insulated my 323 box by drilling ¾ holes on outside of box and injected foam insulation between the hull and box, under box between the oven wall and box wall and all voids put in several containers.  I put ice in the box and it last for 3 days or more during summer temperatures.  Also take a thermal blanket and cover the ice, soda, water, beer in box; the ice keeps even longer! 

If racing PHRF, centerline tacked asymmetrical spinnaker may be tacked up to 12 inches forward of J with no penalty provided the area of the spinnaker is no larger than that of the maximum area for which the boat is originally handicapped. 

Bob
Chance
Hull #10

26

General Discussion / Re: Winter Projects

« on: May 27, 2016, 09:28:24 PM »

Hi Al,
Thank you on your suggestion for my hatches in the cockpit, but I'm not sure how you install the star board on the sides. Could you let me know?  Your idea on the blower for cooling the engine compartment was what I was thinking too.  I have an Atomic 4 with a bilge blower going on the port side now.  Other side has a 4" vent hose going to the carburetor area of the engine. Still trying to figure out how to get better ventilation of the heat out of the engine compartment.  Let me know if you have any suggestions.

Bob K

27

General Discussion / Pearson Information Pages

« on: May 27, 2016, 09:15:10 PM »

After looking through my files, I found the attached 3 pages with information about the Pearson 323 when I bought her back in 1977.  There is pricing information and options that could be added which affected the price of her. 

28

General Discussion / Re: Winter Projects

« on: February 07, 2016, 07:26:02 PM »

Thanks Selene & SeaFever for great information on Butyl tape and links to websites.  Chance will be using the good quality Butyl tape.  Any thoughts on the other 2 projects?    Bob K

29

General Discussion / Winter Projects

« on: February 01, 2016, 09:27:15 PM »

At this time Pearson 323,Chance, Hull 10 1977 is on the hard for another winter in Milwaukee WI.

1.    Winter project is to remove the Bomar forward and center hatches, along with the main hatch splash cover, check deck core and epoxy for new mounting screws.  This is completed.  Looking for advice on bedding them back down.  Tape or caulk.  Bomar does not sell tape anymore.

2.   On the cockpit seat hatches has anyone put anything on to prevent them from closing so quickly when crew drop them?

3.   Atomic 4 gas when running the engine for a long 80-100 mile distance, returning from races.  When cabin is closed up tight because of rain squalls or sea conditions, fumes & heat seems to build up in engine compartment and cabin.  Has anyone added an additional blower to help rid these fumes?

Bob K

30

General Discussion / Chance hit by Lightning

« on: January 10, 2016, 02:18:46 PM »

Chance 323 1977 hull 10 which I have owned for 39 years was hit by lightning on the mooring.  This was on Lake Michigan, Milwaukee WI in 1995. Another boater who was staying with their grandchildren on a boat nearby saw the strike that night.  While racing a 25 mile race the next day, not knowing she was hit, the boat seemed extremely slow.  All the instruments did not work, as well as the radios; the AM/FM one, and the VHF one, the GPS and backup Loran.  After hauling the boat for a look, I found the copper bottom paint all flaked up.  From the lightning strike the charge dissipated through all the seacocks, prop shaft, rudder shaft, keel, and anyplace Pearson bonded their green #8 or #6 wire to, which came from all the shrouds on the spar.  I took the bottom down to the gelcoat and the boatyard ground out all the grazing cracks and repaired any fiberglass. I then coated the bottom with Interlux Protector coatings 1&2 at that time.  When all repairs were done, the bill for the insurance company was $11,000!  The boat never took on water and no holes blew through the hull, or seacocks.  Thank God for the solid boat construction and the bonding to dissipate the charges. At this time I carry a lightning grounding wire normally used on roof tops, made of multiple aluminum wires, clamped to the backstay, held off the boat into the water.  This is only used during lightning storms while cruising or racing, then removed. I believe Pearson has done a great job bonding shrouds to place where charge dissipates out, without blowing holes in the fiberglass, sinking the boat!  I was lucky I guess.  Bob K  Chance 323 Hull #10 Owner.