Messages

1

Interior Structures / Re: Removing the 2 foot x 4 foot (approx) Stern end of the teak holly cabin Sole

« on: April 03, 2022, 07:41:38 PM »

I tried 2 more times, took your suggestion.....I find this site unresponsive and bizarre, will switch to another site. Thanks

2

Interior Structures / Re: Removing the 2 foot x 4 foot (approx) Stern end of the teak holly cabin Sole

« on: April 03, 2022, 09:28:03 AM »

Thanks for your reply. I did get the wall removed. I cannot really reply properly as the site will not allow me?  Says my file is too large?? say photo
images has a limit of 4 kilobytes?  My editor cannot even make images this small?

Wall is out, floor is removed and home now. Wall was tightly fitted and tapped into place, after 41 years some wood swelling, took brute to remove, but done

3

Interior Structures / Removing the 2 foot x 4 foot (approx) Stern end of the teak holly cabin Sole

« on: March 27, 2022, 04:29:41 PM »

Good day all, been playing with removing this section, however I have to remove the Plywood wall that separates the desk from the salon?
It just won't slide out? I can see one screw on the right side where the plywood dissapears into the glass but it is loose and not in the way. If there are other screws they would seem to be hidden behind more glass? I prodded with a long knife into the sleeve opening built into the glass, and feel no other screws??

Is there some secret I am missing to slide out this wall so I can access this section of flooring completely?  For the purposes of sliding out the old flooring and inserting the new.
I don't think it can be done without this wall sliding out?

See the Photo, and the divider wall up against the Nav. Desk. I'm pretty sure it needs to be "slid" out to access the Sole screws underneath

Many Thanks
Nick Z
Hull 319

4

General Discussion / Transporting a mast from St Augustine area to New Bedford, 32 foot sailboat

« on: March 13, 2018, 10:11:52 PM »

Hello all, I hope I am in the right group for this inquiry.

In the next month or so I am hopeful that I can ship a mast with a roller furling and Shrouds from the St Augustine area to NB, MASS.  I will have it all tied down, secured and plastic wrapped for added security.

I am trying to have the Mast "Hitch a ride" with an existing truck heading north with other boat cargo. 

Does anyone have any contacts that I can call about this?.  I have heard that many Marine truck drivers do this to pick up a few extra bills, or more...

Would really appreciate your thoughts and contacts

Warmest Regards
Nick Zakharoff
Pearson 323
Rhode Island
401 486 3774

5

Mast and Spar Issues / 1981 Pearson 323 Hull #319 - Looking for Mast Specs

« on: March 10, 2018, 10:59:49 PM »

Hello, all is this discussion active?  Just tried to post and it disappeared when I hit post

Nick
401 486 3774

Looking for mast specs, total length, make (I think MetalMast) and best place to buy new in New Bedford Mass area or RI
and is there a great used mast for sale anywhere with Shrouds?

6

Engine and Drive Train / Re: P323 shaft struct

« on: May 15, 2012, 06:11:38 PM »

You should talk to the people at: http://www.drmarine.com/categories.asp
I believe they bought all the design rights to Pearson Yachts and have many original Pearson parts in stock. Perhaps they can suggest something on the Strut?

I think if you paid a marina for such design services they certainly have an obligation to deliver. I guess it depends on how far you want to push your claim.  I would speak with the owner.

Good luck
Nick

7

Engine and Drive Train / 60 PSI oil pressure reading?

« on: April 23, 2012, 04:15:14 PM »

I recently changed my VDO oil pressure gauge to another VDO oil gauge (0-80 psi, same as before) and used a sender that came with yet another VDO gauge that I sent it back because it had spade connectors instead of terminal connectors, but kept the sender.  I used to always get a reading of 40 psi on average, and now this new combination is giving me a reading of 60psi?  Any thoughts on this?

When I called the seller he said as long as both are paired to handle a 0-80psi gauge it should work?  The only difference this year was that I did a lot of engine work this year, engine main seal, all seals in tranny, reflushed the head surface, etc, etc

Any experience on this matter would be appreciated!

Nick
IntimaSea  319

8

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: In-Line Ignition/gauge panel, four bank, 12 volt Fuse block

« on: April 10, 2012, 05:34:03 PM »

Yes, I considered this...but its really convenient having the four fuses all lined up and the quick connect when you need it. I also considered a breaker switch, which would probably work just as well.  McDonnell Marine in Bloomfield CT does discount Volvo parts so I got it for $60 bucks. Most don't. He has a lot of MD11c Parts, even used. I'm sure it will last the next 20 years

9

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: In-Line Ignition/gauge panel, four bank, 12 volt Fuse block

« on: April 10, 2012, 02:45:45 PM »

As it turns out this is a Volvo part, about $66 bucks

10

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Cold Start Button on Volvo MD11-C

« on: April 10, 2012, 10:14:36 AM »

Yes, they are Compression levers. I was told 25 years ago to raise the levers for cold morning starts, and the MD11C starts almost instantly, without fail!

11

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: In-Line Ignition/gauge panel, four bank, 12 volt Fuse block

« on: April 10, 2012, 09:52:55 AM »

Here is the photo......

12

Electrical Systems & Electronics / In-Line Ignition/gauge panel, four bank, 12 volt Fuse block

« on: April 09, 2012, 05:32:32 PM »

Hello all;

Directly behind my gauge panel on the wiring harness I have the above mentioned fuse block. It is in-line and I have four identical fuse replacements in case I short our.  I have not bought one for 15 years........any idea who has these now?  I am down to my last fuse, the others have long since burned out.

Many thanks
Nick

13

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Cold Start Button on Volvo MD11-C

« on: April 05, 2012, 02:03:42 PM »

Mine is a lever, actually there are two...facing towards the stern at the base of the head, inserted actually into the lower valve cover assembly. I have only ever used the rear one (the other is frozen).  I lift up for the colder start, and once started I pull the lever back down.

I hope this helps

Nick

14

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Starter

« on: February 25, 2012, 09:47:07 PM »

These can be rebuilt for about $115. I used Ace Armature In Providence, RI  Rebuild shops are everywhere. They will do with marine specs and components

15

Engine and Drive Train / Is your Exhuast manifold leaking salt water at the head connection?

« on: February 24, 2012, 03:18:29 PM »

Forewarned is forearmed. When I pulled my engine (1981 MD11c) out 2 months ago I discovered that the head surface passageways on the rear head, that interface with the manifold had a good amount of wear and vanishing metal surface, up to 1/8" inside in some areas.  Had to add welding to the head and had it resurfaced with a fine sharpening stone until all was very smooth. I also took this stone and ran it over the exhaust manifold and thermostat block and housing connection so all connection surfaces looked brand new!  In addition to the new manifold gaskets I also used (forgot the name) a red colored gasket sealant (in many areas can be used in place of a gasket, like the connection face of the engine and transmission, recommended by the Tranny shop)  Also good for filling in little dents and holes on you surface connections.

I anticipate being leak free this season.....