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+1 My two PAR pumps are still going strong since 1977!

One supplies fresh water to sink and shower the other drains the shower sump.

EBAY can be a source of new old stock parts for them. And if you see one used grab it as many parts are usable among the different models.
New Member Introductions / New member, 'Moonshadow'
« Last post by SombraDeLuna on November 22, 2021, 06:39:13 PM »
Hi, I have bought a tired old 323 this year and am beginning to restore her after doing some sailing and living aboard in the San Diego area. Very grateful to have such a great resource of fellow owners and the community on this site. Looking forward to continuing this journey! Cheers
First, welcome to the forum!  Lots of good info here, so don't be afraid to ask.

As for your water pump, our 323 to us came with the Jabsco PAR Model 36850-1000 belt-driven diaphragm pump.  These pumps are expensive ($400+), but extremely rugged, reliable, and long-lived.  If you have one of these, it is well-worth it to buy a service kit and rebuild it vs replacing it with a modern $69 pump that will only last a few years.

30122-0000 SERVICE KIT
Hi I must change out the fresh water pump in my 323.  Can you supply the PN and manufacturer?
My name is Frank and I took ownership of a Pearson 323 in October.  After a long look for boat, price and condition, it looks like I made a good decision.  Some minor refits need to be done but so far not a lot before ready to sail north from NC to NJ where I live.  Had the boat out sailing several times in NC and it feels great.  I need to get much more familiar with her before the trip north which is a challenge.  I hope to sail north in April which means trips to NC for sailing and work on the boat.  I will do what I can in NC then plan on hauling out Fall '22 for other work.  No urgent work needed which is very nice.
I do need to change the fresh water pump (reported by owner). It does not work but I have not troubleshooted it yet.
Can someone tell me the P/N and manufacturer a a replacement pump? It has a water heater. 
General Discussion / Any P-39 owners out there?
« Last post by Abaco Joe on November 11, 2021, 07:36:46 AM »
Hi All,
I'm writing a review on a 1975 P39 for Good Old Boat magazine and am looking for owners input and had some questions. I had limited access on a local boat and the owner is now out of town so I was hoping to fill in some details that he didn't know or that has been hard to find and also just get others opinions.

How many P39's were built? I've heard they built about 12 yawl version but couldn't find a number for the sloop.

Details on the deck/hull joint, inward/outward flange, through bolted (size and spacing) and how was it sealed? Any problems with leaks?

The rudder skeg appears to be molded in as part of the hull, is this correct? Bearing at the bottom of the skeg for the rudder?  Any issues there?

Fiberglass layup of the hull, any ideas on how thick? I believe the deck is balsa cored? I've read about soft spots due to stanchions leaking and design/manufacturing issues here?

The interior bulkheads fit into slots in the headliner, are they glassed/glued/screwed in place or just jammed in when the drop the deck in?
Any issues with the centerboard? Ease of operation?

Sailing performance, the local guy says his boat was very competitive back in the day and could sail to 38 degrees to the wind but didn't say if that was with the board up or down. I got feedback from an owner that says with the board up in 12Kts or more wind the boat wants to start crabbing. What are your experiences?

Overall, any design or production flaws?


Engine and Drive Train / Re: 2GM20F Rebuild/Buy New?
« Last post by Abaco Joe on November 11, 2021, 07:03:10 AM »
Rebuild Update

I decided to go with the 3YM20, then waited 2 months to get the engine due to shipping and customs delays. Had some challenges installing it, mostly with the motor mounts but finally got everything installed and running. It was a lot of work and $$$ but was worth it in the long run.
I also checked out a Beta but the cost was significantly higher ($11.5K) than the Yanmar ($7.3K).
P26 / Re: HIN
« Last post by Dolce_Vita on November 03, 2021, 09:16:03 AM »
Given the information you've supplied, we almost have enough to generate the original HIN.

See the page here at
for details.

Since the boat was built before 1984, it uses the older form of the HIN:
Mfg + Model Code + hull num + "M" + year + month

As you stated, Pearson's Mfg code is "PEA".

The only 26' model produced in 1973 is model code "46"

Hull number is "558"

Year is "73"

Month is ? ("A" through "L")

Thus, HIN = PEA46558M73?

This gets you close, but close isn't good enough. 

Further research shows that over 1700 P26's were built.  Hull numbers in the 1976 timeframe were in the 1200 to 1369 range.  Since this exceeds the three digits allocated for hull number, they get truncated, often confusing things.  Since yours was built in model year '73, it's unlikely that the hull number exceeds 1000.

The best way I can think of to determine the final "month" character is to locate the HIN for either hull # 557 or 559.  These are almost certain to have been built in the same month as yours (hull #558).

With this in mind, I poured through Dan Pfeifer's old P26 archives, and found the following info:

1973 -- Peg & Bill Gray ( # 558, Esprit ) [ ] Upper Chesapeake Bay MD
1973 -- Gary Mckenzie ( # 559, Diamond LiL ) [ ] West Palm Beach, FL

Now I'm guessing you already have the first line, but the second line may give you another lead to follow.

Good Luck!

P26 / Re: HIN
« Last post by Dolce_Vita on October 27, 2021, 09:23:39 AM »
The manufacturer's HIN is usually molded into the hull.  If the foil sticker has been applied over it, you may be able to read it without destroying the sticker by placing a sheet of paper over it and rubbing a soft pencil across it.
P26 / Re: HIN
« Last post by popeye323 on October 26, 2021, 09:55:43 PM »
In Massachusetts if there is no hull id# present one will be assigned by the state, which sounds like happened in your case.

 I know for a fact that some manufactures will "hide" the hull id# some where inside the boat.
This number is same as the external hull number but generally is not in plain sight and acts as a means to identify boats were the external hull number is missing or has been altered. Not sure when this practice was started but maybe somebody on this sight might have run across this number on the Pearson 26 and can point you in the right direct.

Happy Sailing no matter what the hull id# is
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