Messages

1

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Electric Drive

« on: August 16, 2023, 02:55:24 PM »

Hey Frank,
I was curious to see if you have made a decision on your engine, I considered going electric a few years ago when I was faced with an unexpected engine replacement (P31-2 Yanmar 2GM20). For me, the biggest factor was how the boat is used. Most of the time I use the boat for day sails or a couple of nights out on the hook so in that case, going electric would be a good option as the batteries can be charged back at the dock. I also go on longer cruises (Bahamas) which presents charging challenges, I didn't want to go a marina every night for shore power or cover the boat with solar panels and wind generators.  Having said that, Sailing Uma on You Tube has been cruising electric for years. In the end I went with a new Yanmar based on my longer range cruising plans. A buddy in my sailing club converted his P30 over to electric about 10 years ago and is very happy with it for local day sailing and racing. Going to electric will probably narrow down your buyer market if you sell the boat, I'm not sure how it will affect the selling price as unlike electric cars, electric boats are still something of an oddity. You might ask a broker what they think on resale value. You'll have to do a trade study between electric vs diesel but I'm thinking electric will have a higher initial cost. A boat with a fresh diesel is going to command a much higher price than one that needs a new motor and will be much easier to sell.
Let us know what you decide!
Joe

2

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Deck drain/scuppers P31-2

« on: January 03, 2023, 02:12:57 PM »

Hi Everyone,
The deck drains/scuppers on my P31-2 need replacing. These are the drains on the deck just outboard of the cockpit coaming. The port side has a 1.5" hose barb, the starboard is threaded to a 90 elbow with the 1.5" hose barb.
Has anyone replaced these and what vendor did you select? I've looked at Forespar and they have their 25X series Thru-Hull parts made from Marelon and have what I'm looking for but the "head" diameter is 2.8", the old ones measure about 2.6". The 2.8" part looks like it might barely fit in the deck recess but I'm concerned it might stand proud allowing a pool of water around the head. Perko offers a hose barb model only and the head is 2.75" across so not much different from the Forespar parts. Also looked at T-H Marine but they had limited selections in 1.5" size. I rather not use metal drains due to corrosion and cost.
Thoughts/comments?
Thanks,
Joe

3

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Gas spring for frig, P31-2 ??

« on: January 03, 2023, 01:24:48 PM »

Just getting around to this again...
I bought a 60# which was just a tad too much pressure, then ordered the 50# which
works well. Thought the 60 would do the job since the spring seems to lose a little bit
of force when cold. I bought them at https://www.rvupgradestore.com/ which had
good prices.
- Abaco Joe

4

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Gas spring for frig, P31-2 ??

« on: September 18, 2022, 12:18:48 PM »

Thanks for the info, the 50-70# range gets me in the ballpark, seems like I haven't forgotten
all my trig and statics/dynamics. I usually keep my broken parts for about a month after the
repair is done for just in case but this time I threw out the old spring when the new one arrived
and didn't check to make sure it worked first. And apparently wrote down the wrong model number.
Now it's shopping time, thanks again for your help.
- Abaco Joe

5

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Gas spring for frig, P31-2 ??

« on: September 16, 2022, 05:15:58 PM »

Good afternoon all,
The gas spring for the lid of my refrigerator box failed so I removed it and thought I ordered
the correct replacement SpringLift SL36-30-1 (30lb) but it's too weak and allows the lid to slam
shut. I did some rough back of the napkin calculations and it looks like something in the 40-50lb
range is what I need, anyone have the correct part number for the spring?
1988 P31-2
Thanks,
Joe

6

General Discussion / Any P-39 owners out there?

« on: November 11, 2021, 07:36:46 AM »

Hi All,
I'm writing a review on a 1975 P39 for Good Old Boat magazine and am looking for owners input and had some questions. I had limited access on a local boat and the owner is now out of town so I was hoping to fill in some details that he didn't know or that has been hard to find and also just get others opinions.

How many P39's were built? I've heard they built about 12 yawl version but couldn't find a number for the sloop.

Details on the deck/hull joint, inward/outward flange, through bolted (size and spacing) and how was it sealed? Any problems with leaks?

The rudder skeg appears to be molded in as part of the hull, is this correct? Bearing at the bottom of the skeg for the rudder?  Any issues there?

Fiberglass layup of the hull, any ideas on how thick? I believe the deck is balsa cored? I've read about soft spots due to stanchions leaking and design/manufacturing issues here?

The interior bulkheads fit into slots in the headliner, are they glassed/glued/screwed in place or just jammed in when the drop the deck in?
Any issues with the centerboard? Ease of operation?

Sailing performance, the local guy says his boat was very competitive back in the day and could sail to 38 degrees to the wind but didn't say if that was with the board up or down. I got feedback from an owner that says with the board up in 12Kts or more wind the boat wants to start crabbing. What are your experiences?

Overall, any design or production flaws?

Thanks,
Joe

7

Engine and Drive Train / Re: 2GM20F Rebuild/Buy New?

« on: November 11, 2021, 07:03:10 AM »

Rebuild Update

I decided to go with the 3YM20, then waited 2 months to get the engine due to shipping and customs delays. Had some challenges installing it, mostly with the motor mounts but finally got everything installed and running. It was a lot of work and $$$ but was worth it in the long run.
I also checked out a Beta but the cost was significantly higher ($11.5K) than the Yanmar ($7.3K).

8

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Yanmar 2GM motor parts

« on: January 15, 2021, 07:26:08 PM »

Yanmar has a tight parts dist. setup, for the most part, if you order parts online you need to be in that shops territory.
My dealer is a 40 minute drive, nice folks but this is one of the biggest complaints against Yanmar.

9

Engine and Drive Train / 2GM20F Rebuild/Buy New?

« on: January 14, 2021, 10:28:05 PM »

Good Evening All,
I have a 1988 P31-2, 3rd owner for the last 12 years with unknown engine hours. The 2GM20F (16HP) was getting hard to start and burning oil at higher RPM so I figured it was time for a rebuild. I don't have the time or energy to do this work any more so pulled it out and sent it to the local Yanmar shop (Yeah, I know, they have us by the short hairs). Initial tear down showed bent connecting rods and the mech said it looked like water had gotten into the cylinders. I took that as a bad sign. They came back with an rebuild estimate of $7600 for the engine and transmission! Labor was a big chunk of that. Alternative 1 was a new 2YM15 (13.6HP) with transmission, instrument panel, wire harness and mixing elbow = $6,523 (plus shipping and tax)  which will be pretty much a drop in replacement. Alternative 2  new 13YM20 (20HP) with transmission, instrument panel, wire harness and mixing elbow = $7,359 (plus shipping and tax). The shop will give me a break on the new engine, about $1K, for the old engine and hours spent so far. I would rather not go down in power but going to the 3YM means moving motor mounts and re-machining the new prop shaft that was just setup for the 2GM, I also have to put the prop shaft in before the engine so need to make a decision soon as I burning bucks on storage fees in the yard. Although it's more expensive, I'm considering just rebuilding the 2GM as I would get a stronger engine and nothing else changes in the setup. I've checked the Interweb for rebuilt and didn't find as much as I expected and am leery of buy a freshly painted "reman" engine from 1200 miles away, the price is right but...  Changing to a different engine maker would probably open another can of worms.
So, I'm sure other have gone through this and I like to hear what other have done.
Thoughts/comment?
Joe

10

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Pearson 303 Stern Tube

« on: January 14, 2021, 09:44:39 PM »

So, I have a P31-2 which seems very similar to the 303 and I would suspect many common parts. I just replaced my PSS and the stern tube is 2"
Hope this helps!