Topics

1

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Deck drain/scuppers P31-2

« on: January 03, 2023, 02:12:57 PM »

Hi Everyone,
The deck drains/scuppers on my P31-2 need replacing. These are the drains on the deck just outboard of the cockpit coaming. The port side has a 1.5" hose barb, the starboard is threaded to a 90 elbow with the 1.5" hose barb.
Has anyone replaced these and what vendor did you select? I've looked at Forespar and they have their 25X series Thru-Hull parts made from Marelon and have what I'm looking for but the "head" diameter is 2.8", the old ones measure about 2.6". The 2.8" part looks like it might barely fit in the deck recess but I'm concerned it might stand proud allowing a pool of water around the head. Perko offers a hose barb model only and the head is 2.75" across so not much different from the Forespar parts. Also looked at T-H Marine but they had limited selections in 1.5" size. I rather not use metal drains due to corrosion and cost.
Thoughts/comments?
Thanks,
Joe

2

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Gas spring for frig, P31-2 ??

« on: September 16, 2022, 05:15:58 PM »

Good afternoon all,
The gas spring for the lid of my refrigerator box failed so I removed it and thought I ordered
the correct replacement SpringLift SL36-30-1 (30lb) but it's too weak and allows the lid to slam
shut. I did some rough back of the napkin calculations and it looks like something in the 40-50lb
range is what I need, anyone have the correct part number for the spring?
1988 P31-2
Thanks,
Joe

3

General Discussion / Any P-39 owners out there?

« on: November 11, 2021, 07:36:46 AM »

Hi All,
I'm writing a review on a 1975 P39 for Good Old Boat magazine and am looking for owners input and had some questions. I had limited access on a local boat and the owner is now out of town so I was hoping to fill in some details that he didn't know or that has been hard to find and also just get others opinions.

How many P39's were built? I've heard they built about 12 yawl version but couldn't find a number for the sloop.

Details on the deck/hull joint, inward/outward flange, through bolted (size and spacing) and how was it sealed? Any problems with leaks?

The rudder skeg appears to be molded in as part of the hull, is this correct? Bearing at the bottom of the skeg for the rudder?  Any issues there?

Fiberglass layup of the hull, any ideas on how thick? I believe the deck is balsa cored? I've read about soft spots due to stanchions leaking and design/manufacturing issues here?

The interior bulkheads fit into slots in the headliner, are they glassed/glued/screwed in place or just jammed in when the drop the deck in?
Any issues with the centerboard? Ease of operation?

Sailing performance, the local guy says his boat was very competitive back in the day and could sail to 38 degrees to the wind but didn't say if that was with the board up or down. I got feedback from an owner that says with the board up in 12Kts or more wind the boat wants to start crabbing. What are your experiences?

Overall, any design or production flaws?

Thanks,
Joe

4

Engine and Drive Train / 2GM20F Rebuild/Buy New?

« on: January 14, 2021, 10:28:05 PM »

Good Evening All,
I have a 1988 P31-2, 3rd owner for the last 12 years with unknown engine hours. The 2GM20F (16HP) was getting hard to start and burning oil at higher RPM so I figured it was time for a rebuild. I don't have the time or energy to do this work any more so pulled it out and sent it to the local Yanmar shop (Yeah, I know, they have us by the short hairs). Initial tear down showed bent connecting rods and the mech said it looked like water had gotten into the cylinders. I took that as a bad sign. They came back with an rebuild estimate of $7600 for the engine and transmission! Labor was a big chunk of that. Alternative 1 was a new 2YM15 (13.6HP) with transmission, instrument panel, wire harness and mixing elbow = $6,523 (plus shipping and tax)  which will be pretty much a drop in replacement. Alternative 2  new 13YM20 (20HP) with transmission, instrument panel, wire harness and mixing elbow = $7,359 (plus shipping and tax). The shop will give me a break on the new engine, about $1K, for the old engine and hours spent so far. I would rather not go down in power but going to the 3YM means moving motor mounts and re-machining the new prop shaft that was just setup for the 2GM, I also have to put the prop shaft in before the engine so need to make a decision soon as I burning bucks on storage fees in the yard. Although it's more expensive, I'm considering just rebuilding the 2GM as I would get a stronger engine and nothing else changes in the setup. I've checked the Interweb for rebuilt and didn't find as much as I expected and am leery of buy a freshly painted "reman" engine from 1200 miles away, the price is right but...  Changing to a different engine maker would probably open another can of worms.
So, I'm sure other have gone through this and I like to hear what other have done.
Thoughts/comment?
Joe