Pearson Yachts Forum
Pearson Boats - Common Systems => Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning => Topic started by: SailRxSin on August 10, 2021, 10:25:54 AM
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So the sheaves on both of my genoa jib car blocks disintegrated this weekend during some heavy sailing. Is it possible to get the jib cars off by just taking off a few screws of the jib track instead of taking off the whole track? Has anyone done this?
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Take out the one screw in the black plastic end cap and remove it. The car can then be removed off the end of the track.
The car can be simply and economically repaired by drilling out the rivet and replacing the sheave. A stainless screw and a nylock nut replace the rivet. Be sure to retain and reuse the bronze bushing from the old sheave.
I thought I did a thread here somewhere, with photos, but I couldn't find it. Anyway, here's some photos:
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Take out the one screw in the black plastic end cap and remove it. The car can then be removed off the end of the track.
The car can be simply and economically repaired by drilling out the rivet and replacing the sheave. A stainless screw and a nylock nut replace the rivet. Be sure to retain and reuse the bronze bushing from the old sheave.
I thought I did a thread here somewhere, with photos, but I couldn't find it. Anyway, here's some photos:
Thanks so much!! Great idea instead of spending $150 on each new car
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I’ve done two of these so far. I purchased enough sheaves and bolts to do all four. Since they’re all the same age, once one fails, the others can’t be far behind.
All for much less than the price of a single replacement car.
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You are correct, both of mine exploded on the same weekend. You have 4?
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Yes, two per track. One controls the lead angle into the winch, and the other controls the set of the jib. They all appear to be original.
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I also repaired the sheaves on mine, but then replaced the two primaries with new cars from Garhauer. Internal bearings = lower friction, wellimade and reasonably priced. I keep the older ones as backups.
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Yes, two per track. One controls the lead angle into the winch, and the other controls the set of the jib. They all appear to be original.
Interesting. Zufrieden has a 180 degree turning block well aft of the cleat. I have always (rightly or wrongly), run the jib sheet from the jib car directly to the turning block, then back forward to the winch, then aft to the cleat. Seems to work nicely. I never thought of running the sheet though both jib cars. Always just adjusted the aft most, "working", car to control the set of the headsail. For me, that frees up the forward car for use in my preventer setup.
Still using the originals. Probably due to use in milder, shorter sailing seasons.
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Interesting. Zufrieden has a 180 degree turning block well aft of the cleat. I have always (rightly or wrongly), run the jib sheet from the jib car directly to the turning block, then back forward to the winch, then aft to the cleat. Seems to work nicely. I never thought of running the sheet though both jib cars. Always just adjusted the aft most, "working", car to control the set of the headsail. For me, that frees up the forward car for use in my preventer setup.
Still using the originals. Probably due to use in milder, shorter sailing seasons.
Can you send me pics of your setup? Either here or at sailrxsin@gmail.com
Thanks
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I am not near the boat just now, and I don't have anything that shows the whole setup. Take a look at the picture of Zufrieden on the Parts page of this web site. From that you can see the headsail and the sheet running aft. The picture below, taken on the same day, shows the winch and cleat. You just can't see the turning block, but you can see the sheet running back toward the block, and returning to the winch, finally cleated. The block is actually a foot block. I probably should not be calling it a turning block.
Hope this helps. I will be at the boat over the next couple of weeks. I'll snap another picture and post it as soon as I get back home.
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I am not near the boat just now, and I don't have anything that shows the whole setup. Take a look at the picture of Zufrieden on the Parts page of this web site. From that you can see the headsail and the sheet running aft. The picture below, taken on the same day, shows the winch and cleat. You just can't see the turning block, but you can see the sheet running back toward the block, and returning to the winch, finally cleated. The block is actually a foot block. I probably should not be calling it a turning block.
Hope this helps. I will be at the boat over the next couple of weeks. I'll snap another picture and post it as soon as I get back home.
Very interesting and thanks for posting! Yes, look forward to more pics.
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I actually installed a pair of turning blocks aft of the cleat. I use these to control the spinnaker.
Basically the spinnaker sheets go though a block on the track (so I can adjust the angle of attack), then back to the turning blocks near the stern, and then across the cockpit to the winch on the other (windward) side.
Although this configuration sounds awkward, it works well - I installed it after looking at a number of different boats with a similar setup, as Selene was not originally rigged for a spinnaker. It means that the person flying the kite is on the windward side of the boat, opposite the kite, where they have good visibility and can manage things more easily.
It also separates out the jib sheets and the kite sheets. Sometimes I blow the tack, other times I unfurl the jib to blanket the kite (asym) before socking it. The person flying the kite is on the windward side, unfurling the jib is on the leeward side. Has to be done with care to ensure the furler does not interfere with the spin halyard, though. I got into a right snarl once...
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At last, here is the winch/cleat/turning block arrangement on Zufrieden. The turning block is not as far aft as my initial post on this subject suggested. Works very nicely, for me anyway.
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Yes, looks similar to my setup, except that I don't have a cheek block just a regular block slightly further aft, which I use for the spin sheets.