Pearson Yachts Forum
Pearson Boats - Common Systems => Sails and Canvas => Topic started by: selene on November 21, 2013, 01:32:36 PM
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Well, the peer pressure is mounting, and I am beginning to look for a gently used spinnaker, probably an asym. Do you have one rigged?
For a while I had a sistership "Enchantress" opposite me; he picked up a gently (twice) used spinnaker for $800, all the extras <sigh>. His good fortune planted the seed...and the light winds in the fall are also providing further encouragement....
Selene was never rigged for a spinnaker; Clearly a halyard would be a starting point, requiring a block on the beak at the masthead. Enchantress was following a minimalist route, simply relying on the halyard and using the quickrelease shackle just behind the forestay. I have also read the article on this site posted by Ping...
If you have a spinnaker, how do you have it set up? Any advice?
Just at the planning stage right now....
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I don't have a spinnaker rigged but... there is a nice write-up for one on the projects page:
http://www.pearson323.com/projects/spinnaker_rig.pdf
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Rigging for a spinnaker is easy. P323 has a parrots beak. I picked up a brand new Hood Tri-radial Asym at the Newport RI boat show, about 10 years ago. Paid $800 cash, it is my favorite sail. When most people are motoring, we be sailing.
Free advice. It came down to a full cut sail from Doyle, with a smokin snuffer. Hood had a better sail, but a low end snuffer. The Hood guy said don't worry about the sunffer, he was right. Get the best sail and forget about the snuffer. Get the 3/4 oz cloth, it set better.
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Rusty Pelican, thanks for the advice....how do you run the lines? Block at the end of the track, or....? It looks from the pic like you don't have a second winch on either side - just an extra pair of cleats?
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I have a A-symmetric on Wanderer
It's from the 80s (called "the flasher") but in good shape, light use by PO I guess. It does have a sock which was pretty worn and ripped the first and only time I've used it (only had the boat 2 windy months)
It's halyard is rigged to what I image Rusty Pelican refers to the "parrots beak" on the mast head. It's a small overhang on the port side of the top of the mast. Rigged the tack to a block inboard of the roller furler. Then I just led the sheet through the jib car and back to the winch in the cockpit.
It worked great.
I don't think you need a lot of extra running gear for it if you aren't racing with it.
-Bill
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I have self tailing winches (Lewmar ST chrome 44). Snatch block on starboard and port quarters. I drop the jib sheets to the deck, run the spinnaker sheet (60' 3/8) through the snatch block to the winch.
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I have a hank on Flasher I use. It has it's own light SS cable that tacks to the forepeak and the cable hoists with the sail's head. We use it in light wind on the beam or aft with or without a whisker pole.
It's a lot less trouble than a spinnaker and the related rigging. We use a very light halyard on the masthead sheave box crane. The halyard is tied off on the mast when not in use to facilitate tacking the Genoa.
The lightweight sheets go through a snatch block tied to the stern cleat.
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Thanks guys...very helpful, as your feedback reflects my thoughts, and adds a few new ideas too. Like many of you, initially at least I intend to keep it simple - much as I love Selene, she wasn't built to be a racer! Some of the advice I am getting from folks at the club is from racers, where a second set of winches is thought to be a given, plus a plethora of other blocks...as I am thinking more light air use with an asym, simple seems best and workable.
Incidentally, where do you put the snatch block? last peg on the rail, or a separate fitting aft?
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Separate fitting back on the quarter. I used a high strength pad eye and attach a Ronstan snatch block when needed.
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North Wind was rigged for a symmetrical from the factory. I will be happy to send some photos in a month when she's unwrapped.
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rkfitz, that would be great, thank you.
Once again I am happy to be in California, where right now it is sunny, should be about 70f...only problem we have in winter is winds get light. Of course, I have removed my traveller for replacement, so can't sail right now..but can still play...
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I don't think my marriage would survive if I could sail year round!
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Okay, so first step towards a spinnaker is getting a block on the masthead beak, and then the halyard. Just to save me time going up the mast twice once to measure, then off to buy parts, then second time to fit), I wondered anybody has any information to hand - like how did you guys attach the block? Eyebolt, or U-bolt? From photos I took last time I was up there, it looks like the beak has two holes, one threaded, one not (?). Looks like the holes are 1/4". Any clues would save me a bunch of time - thanks in advance!
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I have a Asymmetrical Spinnaker with a sock and there was a sheeve already installed on the Beak. I can't remember the size. You can go to SAILBOATOWNERS.COM and click on the store, look for Sheets and Halyards and you will find a place that you can ask for the measurements for all the sheets for the 323. They show 64 ft for the halyard, but 81 ft for the main halyard. I would go closer to the 81 feet. Sorry I don't have the exact measurements for you.
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Okay, so first step towards a spinnaker is getting a block on the masthead beak, and then the halyard. Just to save me time going up the mast twice once to measure, then off to buy parts, then second time to fit), I wondered anybody has any information to hand - like how did you guys attach the block? Eyebolt, or U-bolt? From photos I took last time I was up there, it looks like the beak has two holes, one threaded, one not (?). Looks like the holes are 1/4". Any clues would save me a bunch of time - thanks in advance!
The holes in our beak were unthreaded. Attachment was via a u-bolt with nuts and a cotter pin. The block has a swivel in it to keep from twisting the lines.