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Topics - jwspeck

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1
Ports & Hatches / Portlight Rebedding
« on: July 31, 2017, 02:40:16 PM »
So I'm starting to rebed my portlight and I've read all the good project pages people have put up.

People in general seem to think it's a really good idea to fill in the gap (where there is one) between the headliner and the cabin top.

To me, it looks like if you used a generous amount of butyl tape around the outside lip of the portlight you wouldn't need to mess with the gaps at all.

Has anyone rebedded using butyl tape alone?

2
Was so fun passing and beating all the newer boats! Especially the Catalinas!

We double-handed and took 6th place out of 18 boats with my old sails, jammed traveler, no whisker pole, and duct tape on the mast!

Next year we try harder!

http://www.regattanetwork.com/event/13721#_newsroom+results


3
Electrical Systems & Electronics / Wiring question
« on: May 01, 2016, 02:57:27 PM »
I feel ignorant asking this, but I'm having trouble understanding the DC wiring on my 323... this is probably made more complicated by the fact that the PO made a couple of wiring "gloms" that make it appear voodoo.

So, one question to start, how are the lights wired on one side of the boat? Is it the positive side of the loop that goes through the breaker panel? Are they wired in serial (seems unlikely to me)? I think if I could understand the specific wiring containing: the battery, a single breaker, and three cabin lights, I could apply that knowledge more generally.

So much for my two years of vocational electronics in high school :/

4
Electrical Systems & Electronics / Any advice for cable pulling?
« on: May 01, 2016, 02:52:04 PM »
As part of the mast pull/step rebuild, I replaced the lights and added electronic instruments... new LED spreader lights, Steaming light, Anchor light, and a Maretron WSO100 wind meter.

Now I need to run some new wiring behind the starboard side salon... any advice for pulling the NMEA 2000 cable and additional power cables through that area?

Thanks,
John Speck
Lucky Mud
Hull #110

5
Mast and Spar Issues / Replacing Mast Sheaves
« on: January 26, 2016, 04:39:08 PM »
Hi,

I'm getting my mast pulled as part of the work at the yard and I'm wondering if anyone has any part numbers for sheaves that would replace the original sheaves? I've switched to all rope halyards and I believe the old ones were meant for wire + rope so it should make the rigging easier!

Thanks in advance,
John Speck

6
Was reading this article: http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/magazine/2016/january/lightning-protection-on-recreation-watercraft.asp?utm_source=SWMAG&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=swmag_art1_0116

Since the P323 has an aluminum mast, is keel stepped, and has a lead hull it sounds like you could pretty easily bolt some copper or bronze strips to the keel since it's lead fille and put a lightning rod on top of the mast and you'd be done.

Too straightforward? Do the mast step bolts really go down in to the lead of the keel?

Thanks,
John Speck

7
Mast and Spar Issues / Mast sail track latch
« on: November 11, 2015, 05:20:54 PM »
While removing my sail from the mast and boom, the latch on the mast that is heavily corroded fell apart.

I'm guessing finding a direct replacement for the original 1978 latch will be difficult. How are these things replaced? Do you go to a metal shop and hope they can bend a piece of metal to fit?

Pictures of old latch attached.

8
Engine and Drive Train / Prop shaft length
« on: November 11, 2015, 04:45:09 PM »
Ordering a new prop shaft to fit my new Hurth ZF 15 transmission for my Beta 25.

Looks like the old prop shaft was 59.5" according to the parts list... Can anyone confirm that at all? The new transmission requires the coupling in front, so the shaft will have to be approximately 6" longer.

Anyone? Thanks!

John Speck
Lucky Mud
Hull #110

9
Engine and Drive Train / MD11C saga continues (aka need new engine)
« on: August 31, 2015, 01:23:38 PM »
Hey folks,

Thanks for the tons of help on other threads. My MD11C story continues having replaced and put on a new primary fuel filter and with everyone's guidance bled it.

Unfortunately when I try to start the engine there is a meaty thunk as it sounds like the starter tries to turn the flywheel, but it doesn't turn. I tried to turn it by hand and was unable to do so (although the angle is terrible.) I then tried to release the compression levers. Unfortunately the one on the cylinder furthest from the flywheel can't go up all the way because a bulkhead is in the way.

My theory is that I flooded the cylinders with seawater when I was cranking too much when I had a fuel blockage. Oops.

I tried to open the valves on the engine to drain the seawater but due to poor access and the fact that they seem to be falling apart due to rust, was unable to do it.

That was a couple of weeks ago and in the meantime I've decided to replace the engine. I got a soup to nuts quotes for a Beta for 19K. I got a quote from a similar price from a Yanmar dealer. They both are estimating 40-50 hours of labor. A local Volvo dealer said an engine would be about 8k, but didn't know what transmission to use.

I've decided to do as much of the labor myself as possible. I figure since I want to potentially start cruising the world in a couple of years learning as much about all this stuff will come in handy. Also I can't stand the thought of paying 19K which could turn in to 25k as often the happens with quotes for boat work. ;)

Couple of questions:
- The Beta options seems pretty straight forward and I've read several other Pearson 323 owners doing this work. Need to put in a ZF15 MIV transmission though. Someone mentioned I might need a new prop shaft. Are prop shafts left/right handed?

- The Yanmar option I assume also requires a ZF 15MIV, I haven't seen any other Pearsons going Yanmar though. Anyone have a Yanmar in their P323?

- The Volvo dealer I called didn't know at all what transmission to use. The Volvo D-130 is the least expensive and if it didn't require a new prop and shaft, that would be awesome. Anyone have any experience with a D-130 in a P323? What transmission would work?

- Any other engine choices I'm missing? I saw someone put a Universal in their P323, but haven't gotten a quote from anyone.

- I've also been looking for used, running engines, but haven't had much luck. Any good sites I might be missing?

- Anyone ever change their prop shaft without hauling out?  ;D

Thanks,
John Speck














10
Engine and Drive Train / Fuel cutoff MD11c
« on: July 29, 2015, 08:43:26 PM »
In monkeying about with the engine, I started to wonder how the fuel cut-off works on the MD11c as I was wondering if mine somehow got messed up and is actually causing the engine fuel problems.

There is a piece of metal on a rocker. When I pull my control line it pulls the top of the lever so that it is straight vertical and the bottom of the metal lever contacts a metal pin that sticks out the engine.

Is that pin supposed to push in to the engine? Mine doesn't. It sticks out about an inch and doesn't budge. Or does the metal lever contacting the pin close some sort of electrical connection?

I've looked through the volvo manuals that people have pointed me to and I can't find the section that talks about how the fuel cut-off works or is plumbed.

Any help?

11
Engine and Drive Train / MD11C New Fuel Filter
« on: July 27, 2015, 07:24:45 PM »
(I'm very new to diesel maintenance so please excuse my rookie mistakes here!) :)

My MD11C has been cutting out on me more and more frequently in a way that made it sound fuel starved. Each time it would restart immediately... the theory was that it was picking up contaminants in the fuel and when the pressure cleared those backed out. I put it on the low priority list to fix, figuring that I'd eventually polish the fuel. Haha.

So now it's cutting out enough I've moved it up to the "very high priority." :)

I'm starting with the fuel filter. I have the original giant black fuel filter bolted to the side of the engine compartment. It's likely 1978. I undid the bottom screw and out poured 1/4 gallon of very black fuel. I have no idea when the PO last did that. I tried to undo the top of the filter but it appears wedged or rusted.

So now I want to replace that "Specialty Marine" filter with a Racor 225 filter. The first problem I've run in to is that the fuel hoses coming from the fuel tank are metal tubes screwed in to the fiberglass and, of course, don't line up with the holes on the Racor.

So my questions are:
1. Can I buy flexible hoses to connect from the original hoses to points that match the Racor?
2. Any gotchas that any one would like to point out with this entire project? I hopefully learned early enough that you need to close the seawater intake if you're going to be cranking a lot.
3. I've seen some threads on bleeding after fuel filter change... I hope I get that right.
4. Is there any chance that the dirt in the only fuel filter could have made it through in to the next part of the fuel system? Any suggestions how I would check?
5. Anyone recommend a mobile diesel mechanic willing to come to SF in case I can't manage to get this done?

Attached are some pics of the engine and the old fuel filter.

Thanks in advance for any advice that you can take the time to offer!

John Speck
Pearson 323
Lucky Mud
Hull #110







12
Sails and Canvas / Mainsail on the shrouds
« on: June 08, 2015, 12:07:05 PM »
My mainsail spends a lot of time rubbing on the shrouds in anything further downwind than a beam reach.

There also appears to be a lot of twist in the mainsail even with my vang fully tensioned.

I've attached a picture from sailing wing on wing a couple weekends ago. Yes, I am reefed and the outhaul could have been tighter but it still happens when not reefed.

Do your sails spend a lot of time rubbing the shrouds?

13
Deck Mounted Hardware / Reefing pad eye replacement?
« on: May 06, 2015, 07:50:23 PM »
The pad eyes that I use to tie the reeding lines to are in bad shape... One snapped a couple of weeks ago. Anyone know how to find a replacement? Preferably same screw layout? Picture attached...

14
Plumbing and Galley Systems / Ship Mate Wall Heater
« on: January 05, 2015, 05:51:20 PM »
On my Pearson 323 I have a Ship Mate wall heater (picture attached.)

I have been unable to find any operating instructions for the unit. It smells like it's a kerosene heater. It has kerosene in it and a pump on top. I have gotten it to briefly light but was unable to discern how to control the fuel flow... the knob didn't seem like it did anything.

Does any one have a PDF or advice with regards to it? Honestly, I don't really like the idea of a 40 year old open flame heater being used on the boat... but it's there now and it sure does get cold!


15
Plumbing and Galley Systems / Pressure Water System
« on: August 30, 2014, 10:44:26 PM »
Yet another newbie question from a new Pearson 323 owner.

Today I messed around with checking out the "pressure water" system.

I flipped the DC breaker for the pressure water system and listened. Didn't hear anything. I then tried turning the faucet handles on the galley sink. No water, no sound. I then hit the black push button above my galley sink labeled "Water pressure." Immediately I heard the pressure pump turn on from the starboard sail locker and water started to flow from the galley sink faucet. Water ALSO started to trickle out of the spigot that is operated by the foot pump in to the sink. I turned the faucet to off on the sink, water continued to trickle out of the foot pump spigot and I could continue to hear the pressure pump run.

I then went and tried the shower, the cold water knob worked on the shower head.

So questions!
1. How do YOU use the pressure water system in your Pearson 323? When do you turn on the breaker? Does the pressure pump run for awhile then the system is pressurized for a bit?
2. What controls which fresh water tank gets drawn for the pressure water system?
3. How does the hot water tank get water in it? Does it fill when the hot water tank switch is on?
4. I think the sump pump on my boat is a big box under the center access panel in the salon. There appear to be at least 3 hoses going in and out of it, multiple of which are going up to the bow... any idea why?

I tried looking through the original owner's manual for these answers but it seems pretty limited on the "hows" and "whys" of it.

As usual, thank you so much in advance for your help!  ;D
Thanks,
John Speck

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