Messages

31

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Mast removal procedure

« on: June 13, 2013, 11:45:29 AM »

Mine had a universal boot in place as well and it was very dry. Could you tell me which universal boot you used? So I guess the 7/16" pin in the 1/2" hole was "standard" on our boats. My rigger also indicated this was a bad thing. How much play did you have in the forestay pin at the deck end? The hole on the chainplate was 9/16 and not elongated with a 1/2" pin. Rigger is going to make a bushing to take up that slack as well.

32

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Mast removal procedure

« on: June 13, 2013, 07:42:50 AM »

Glad to hear you have yours back in. I had mine taken out on Tuesday and everything went very smooth. The actual time for the yard to remove was less than an hour. Thanks for the information on what to do that was key to having it done quickly. I had 6 wedges in mine made out of pvc and I did number them using a sharpie. The standing rigging on my boat is original and I'm going to replace it while its out. We found 2 pins that were the wrong size they were at the masthead end for the top spreaders. Did you remove the mast partner on the cabin top and rebed it? Mine looks to have been faired on the inside to the teak trim ring on the inside..not sure what they used but it's white in color and almost a plaster consistency.

33

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: JABSCO 36950-1000 fresh water pump

« on: June 06, 2013, 07:23:36 AM »

I believe my boat still has the original 36950-1000 pump in it. The previous owner installed an RV filter on the cold side line going to the galley sink. The cold side out of that faucet is just a bare trickle. The hot side comes out all right but no where near the 4 gpm rating of the pump. I am thinking the pump is just running out of steam and either needs a rebuild or replaced. Is rebuilding the pump worth it or should I replace it? The guy at the local West Marine said he could order the rebuild kit for a little over $100.

34

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Mast removal procedure

« on: June 05, 2013, 07:05:31 AM »

So true on the time and cost factor! I am also looking to convert to internal halyards to free up an extra sheave fore and aft. Are you going to go back with the wedges or use something like the spartite urethane?

35

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Mast removal procedure

« on: June 03, 2013, 04:40:09 PM »

Thank you for the info and pics. Did you need to number the mast wedges and their location so upon reinstall it goes back the same way it came out?

36

Mast and Spar Issues / Mast removal procedure

« on: June 03, 2013, 11:53:20 AM »

Hi, I need to unstep my mast. I've looked on the site and have found multiple write ups on fixing the mast step issue but none that detail the actual removal of the mast. If someone could provide information on the procedure that would be great. I'm having the yard at the marina remove it but I'm sure there are some things I should do prior to removal. Thanks in advance.

37

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: cockpit sole core repair

« on: May 06, 2013, 08:43:24 AM »

This weekend I cut, fit and installed the coring and G10 for the binnacle. I attached a couple pictures, one of the dry fit, and another of the coring after glassing it in with the West System epoxy. I contoured the core around the rudder access so that the entire area for the plate is solid epoxy. My dockmate Joran found a flowerpot that fit into that hole snugly, that the yellow you can see in the second picture. Thanks Joran! I used Coosa bluewater 26 for the remaining areas that's the grey looking stuff. It is similar to plywood but a bit lighter and it does not absorb water. It was recommended by a local wizard with fiberglass and paint. The wife and I did get the top skin re-attached but I didn't get a picture of it. I covered with plastic and weighted it down with 2 50lb bags of sand, the flowerpot was left in place and I'll remove it once it is all cured. I also routed out the fuel window plate about 2" around and filled that with unthickened epoxy. Edson shipped out my parts on Friday so I should have them in hand today or tomorrow. Goal for the coming weekend is to feather the edge of the two skins and glass the seam.

38

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: cockpit sole core repair

« on: April 25, 2013, 07:40:33 AM »

The G10 is epoxy based and so it will readily bond when laid in with an epoxy like MAS or West System. I'm going to use that to provide a solid base for the pedestal and grab rail to mount to.

I've also contacted Edson for the parts to rebuild the steering system while I have it all apart. The bottom plate that the sheaves mount to is steel from the factory. Edson only has a few of those plates left they are using aluminum now, this lowers the sheaves a 1/4". In addition the sheave mounts have been re-designed and in turn also lower the sheaves by another 1/4". If you use the new aluminum plate and the new sheave mounts you will have to drop your radial wheel by 1/2". After speaking to them I'm going to remove my existing plate and send it to them. They will press my sheave mounts to a new steel plate and send it back negating the need to move the radial wheel. The wheel is aluminum with stainless bolts connecting the two halves.

My steering cables were original! Pearson used nicopress fittings at the radial wheel end. You cannot get the original cables through the bottom plate without cutting them. Recommended service life on the cables is 5-7 years. The new cables come with a removable fitting at the radial wheel end allowing you to remove the cables without destroying them. I also ordered a complete rebuild kit for the steering shaft and a new brake. I figured I might as well do it all while I've got it apart. Going to add a NEMA 2000 cable as well in preparation for a new chartplotter.

Edson's technical support and customer service has been top notch. The parts are expensive but if the replacements hold up as well as the originals it will be money well spent.

39

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: cockpit sole core repair

« on: April 23, 2013, 08:43:56 AM »

I agree, definitely plywood underneath the binnacle and rudder access. The core material under the fuel access plate looks like end grain balsa to me. Kind of makes sense they would use the plywood under there for additional structure. I am thinking of using G10 under the binnacle to provide as much structure as possible. Any thoughts on using something along those lines? I think a piece about 12"x13" would cover that area.

40

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: cockpit sole core repair

« on: April 23, 2013, 07:16:18 AM »

I forgot two steps. First remove the wheel. The other is just prior to pulling the pedestal you will need to remove the bolt that is on the aft side and about halfway up the pedestal this is what holds the cable clamp inside the pedestal. I think this will be one of the harder steps to reverse when reassembling. Pics of the bare sole and the skin removed. I also pulled and inspected the fuel level window plate. This part of the core looks to be balsa. While I'm in here going to route out the hole and mounting screws and fill with epoxy to insure no more moisture can get in.

41

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: cockpit sole core repair

« on: April 22, 2013, 03:42:34 PM »

Here is the first set of pictures. Step 1 was to remove the compass, 2 screws on the forward end..this houses the light assy. unplug. The chrome cover comes off and there are 4 screws that hold the compass, remove those and lift compass off and stow. You will be able to see the shifter assemblies. 2 stainless pins with cotter keys. The pins were installed with the heads to the outside of the pedestal. I removed with vise grips to mitigate dropping them. Once the cables are disconnected there are 4 1/4-20x3 1/2" brass flat head bolts to remove. These were the hardest of all to get out. Once that is done you are looking at the chain drive. Down below you will need to remove both cable assemblies from the wheel. If the cables are original as mine were they are crimped at the end that goes onto the quadrant (that is not the right word but I don't remember the correct one). If they are crimped you cannot remove them without cutting the cables. I pulled the chain up and removed one side at the cable end. Remove the 4 badly corroded aluminum mounting bolts at the base of the binnacle and lift off.

42

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: cockpit sole core repair

« on: April 22, 2013, 07:33:09 AM »

I took the plunge and removed the top skin about 6" aft of the rudder access plate and about 4" forward of the binnacle. A friend on the dock had a complete book by West System on repairs and they covered this very thing in detail. On the sides I left enough room for the 12 to 1 feather when the two pieces of the deck are laid back down. I have no idea how someone would manage to do this repair from underneath with good results I am positive I could not do it that way and be satisfied with my effort. The binnacle mounting bolts are aluminum and mine were severely corroded I am very glad I took it all apart now. The forward end of the binnacle had sunk into the sole about 1/4". There was nothing left of the core underneath the binnacle at all completely rotted. I took alot of pictures and as soon as I figure out how to get them off of my new phone I'll post in here.

43

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: cockpit sole core repair

« on: April 21, 2013, 11:00:25 AM »

Repair looks to be very difficult to do from below. What are the coins to doing it from above? I removed the fuel gauge  window and found end grain balsa as the core there. The binnacle and rudder had plywood as core. I do intend to do the nonskid in kiwi grip. I had not planned on that for this year but could do just the cockpit sole to cover/blend the repair. Thoughts? Thanks.

44

Deck Mounted Hardware / cockpit sole core repair

« on: April 16, 2013, 02:18:24 PM »

When I purchased our boat the survey showed elevated moisture around the emergency rudder access plate. Sunday I removed the plate to inspect the severity and found quite a bit of rotted wood and some sort of caulking had been injected into the area which appears to have made the situation worse. The rot extends all the way to the binnacle and it looks to be all the way over to the edge on the starboard side. The port side is better but not by much. I haven't pulled the fuel level window in front of the binnacle yet but intend to do so. I've asked a few people about repair options and gotten two basic responses.

One is to use some form of tool to remove as much of the rotted wood as possible and then allow it to dry for at least a week and then fill with thin epoxy to wet out the existing good wood. Then use thickened expoxy to fill the areas where the wood is missing.

The second is to remove the skin from the cockpit and replace the wood with a foam that is layed over with epoxy and glass.

I did some reading on the second method and most that I read had removed the bottom skin and not the top. It looks to be very difficult to remove the bottom skin and manage to replace the core from the bottom. If anyone has made this sort of repair I would appreciate any information or tips on what you did and how it worked out. Thanks.

45

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Propane locker

« on: November 01, 2012, 08:52:47 AM »

Now or Never! has a propane locker installed under the helmsman seat (between the port and starboard lockers/settees).  Propane is the way to go until CNG becomes more available.

Sorry Sea Fever I meant to ask Now or Never! if they had pics of the propane locker under the helm seat. Also, was that something that was custom made or something that can be purchased off the shelf.