Messages

1

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: which Loos gauge?

« on: June 24, 2015, 05:59:12 PM »

I just wanted to report that the 90 B model is the correct gauge, and it worked just fine for me. I feel much better about the rig tension now!

Chet

2

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: which Loos gauge?

« on: June 04, 2015, 03:55:22 PM »

My owners manual says the wire size is 9/32"

Chet

3

Interior Structures / Re: Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?

« on: June 04, 2015, 03:49:49 PM »

Bill, when you removed your floor, was it glued as well as screwed?

Thanks,

Chet

4

Interior Structures / Re: Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?

« on: June 04, 2015, 03:47:34 PM »

Ed, this is a snapshot of what I think he uses as far as screws and washers. Available at www.lymanboat.com. Also, I've asked him to email photoes of the cabin soles he has installed with the screws, and I will post if I get them

5

Interior Structures / Re: Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?

« on: June 03, 2015, 08:40:31 PM »

Bill1188- was the floor just screwed down? Or also glued?

BTW, I found a guy who owns a company that works on a lot of old Lyman boats and does LOTS of custom woodwork. He will use my old pieces for patterns and make new pieces for me. Also, I'm thinking about just going with Teak veneer as opposed to Teak and Holly veneer. He says it will save me some money by reducing his labor hours (he won't have to line up all the holly strips). I saw some pictures of cabin soles done in the teak and looks great too. Also, mentioned that when I install the new pieces, I might want to consider using decorative bronze screws as opposed to covering the screws with wood bungs. I also saw pictures of this, and looks good as well...they do this on Lyman boats and use special Lyman inverted bronze washers. That way, the pieces can be pre-finished when I install them, as opposed to having to sand and re-finish inside the cabin. He claims that the bronze will get a patina when aged and they basically blend right in with the teak.


Chet

6

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: which Loos gauge?

« on: June 03, 2015, 08:23:35 PM »

I just ordered the Regular model 90 B, which states it goes up to 9/32" wire. (the model is A smaller) Will let you know if this is the right one. I may have it in time to use it this weekend

Chet

7

Mast and Spar Issues / Hey Rusty Pelican...spreader hose clamps?

« on: May 24, 2015, 03:39:20 PM »

Hey Bob,

I saw you post on the fix you did with hose clamps on your spreaders. Do you happen to know what size hose clamps those are? My boat is already in water and I want to get up the mast to do the same as you did.

Thanks in advance,

Chet

8

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Mast "clanging" internal conduit loose?

« on: May 14, 2015, 09:03:07 PM »

Well, we rigged up a light on an old cane pole (fishing pole) and got a pretty good look up the mast. We even rolled the mast over, and it turns out the conduit inside the mast is NOT broken loose after all. YAY! Right after the boat was hauled and the mast unstepped we noticed the anchor light staff was broken and dangling by the wires and I first thought that maybe the boat yard broke the staff for the anchor light when they pulled the mast. We installed a new anchor light. Now, I am thinking that it could have broken last season and that was responsible for the clanging. Anyway, she is going to be launched on 5-23-15 so I'll know soon enough if that was it or not.

Chet

9

Interior Structures / Re: Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?

« on: February 20, 2015, 03:14:10 PM »

You guys and gals will get a kick out this...Just for kicks I asked the boatyard to give me an estimate to replace my teak and holly sole and they came back with $8000. I guess they really don't want to do it.
LOL!!!

Chet

10

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Mast "clanging" internal conduit loose?

« on: January 26, 2015, 10:58:49 PM »

Dolce_Vita...thank for the info!

Chet

11

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Mast "clanging" internal conduit loose?

« on: January 24, 2015, 08:37:20 PM »

Alma, I'm not sure about how the wires to the spreaders work, or anything else, really. It's just so hard to see up there.

When you pull new wires, do you take the cap off the top of the mast? Seems like it would be siexed on there pretty by now, but I haven't tried to remove it.

12

Interior Structures / Re: Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?

« on: January 22, 2015, 08:09:07 PM »

Blue Heron, mine is a white pan under the floor. My wood is lucky, no delaminations and sufficient thickness. I am going to screw the floor back down and replace the bungs. Should look like new. Carpet would not be bad. White floor finished in non skid might be an option. I am going to leave the table pole out. Without it the interior seems twice the size.

Thanks for confirming that. I too have thought about removing the table pole, but, being able to position the table like that is so darn handy! I often position at a standing table height for working on various projects, and the ability to spin the table sideways allows use from the starboard side settee as well. I always raise it to the ceiling when not in use too, so, I am afraid I would really miss it if I took it out.

13

Interior Structures / Re: Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?

« on: January 22, 2015, 08:02:59 PM »

Even if the wood is delaminated, you can remove it carefully and use the pieces as a template for cutting the replacements.  Will save a whole lot of time.

Dolce_Vita, If I go forward with the replacement, that is exactly what I hope to do. I am just a bit worried about being able to make the bilge cut-outs with a nice tight fit, with the edges trimmed out and all. That part looks to be some pretty nice craftsmanship! Actually, the whole floor was very nicely done...it is a shame that the previous owner let it go for that long.

14

Interior Structures / Re: Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?

« on: January 22, 2015, 07:55:38 PM »

My bilge hatches are solid teak and holly, with a marine plywood cut out on the bottom to fit correctly on the cabin sole. The teak and holly lies on top of a glass sub deck. My entire cabin sole is all teak and holly, no glass.
The teak and holly sole was an upgrade option,as were many aspects with the P323.  The standard cabin sole was glass.  I would guess that your boat was factory glass and along the way an owner added a teak holly overlay.
I have seen the factory glass cabin sole boats and it looks like there are obvious spots for an overlay. I don't think you could cover the entire sole with an overlay, just spots; but I could be wrong.
 

i think mine is likely the factory option. My entire sole is also teak and holly, with the only visible pan being in the head area where there is a teak grate over the shower pan. My floor is also pretty thick, for instance, when I remove the small cutout/hatch around the mast, it is probably at least 1/2" thick. I'll take a better look at it, and maybe post a couple pictures next time I get out there (a couple weeks).

15

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Mast "clanging" internal conduit loose?

« on: January 22, 2015, 07:25:24 PM »

Very dumb question - sorry in advance - but are you sure it is not an external line slapping?  I was convinced I had a loose internal line for a while, and after a lot of bungee cords (why does the slap only happen at 2am??) I finally convinced myself it was internal - until I tied off a last lazyjack.  Sheesh.  Who would have thought such a thin line could have made so much noise?

LOL!...Been there, done that! But no, this is definitely an issue inside the mast. I have quite the routine for tying all the external lines out away from the mast (and my dock neighbors greatly appreciate it).