Messages

1

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Propeller size help

« on: November 22, 2020, 12:25:15 PM »

The engine size/type is the reason for the differences in prop sizes you found in the Pearson doc. The original owners manual lists the 17x12 prop for this boat.  The boat now has the Volvo D1-30 engine.

From the P323 Owners Guide:
> Universal Atomic 4, Model 5103-UJVD w/Aqua-Pak V-Drive, 2:1 Reduction 15x8 RH Style E, 1 1/8" bore
> STD. ENGINE MAKE & MODEL 3 BLADE PROPELLER

> Volvo MD 11C, 23HP Diesel 1.91:1 Reduction 17x12 LH Style E, 1 1/8" bore
> OPT. ENGINE MAKE & MODEL 3 BLADE ROPELLER

Note: I documented sea trials in calm conditions in Nov 2019 when I owned this boat (Sea Fever) with the existing prop:
5.2 kn@1800 RPM
6 kn@2200 RPM
7 kn@2900 RPM

I am not experienced at sizing props but here are comments from forum users, if you have not already seen them:

Valor did a lot of prop research for the P323 equipped with a Yanmar 3GM30F, which is probably a good comparison to your engine.

My Yanmar 3GM30F has a max RPM of 3600. The boat was purchased with a 15x14 prop and I could only get 6kn@ 3300 RPM max which is why I was changing the prop. The new prop is sized at 15x9 which brings me to 3550 RPM. I normally cruise at 2800 RPM. My old prop with a fresh bottom was 5.5 knots @2800RPM. The new prop was 7.2 knots at 2800RPM. SOG was 6.8kn with a .3 current against. It really feels like a completely different boat when motoring now. When I upgraded to a PSS seal over the winter, I pulled the shaft, had it checked, cleaned and balanced just because. There is ZERO vibration of any type with the new prop as well.

Rbrtfeld put a folding prop on his P323

I believe the Maxx prop was a 15 inch LH prop. They then told me what setting I needed when I put the prop together on the boat. There is a good video on YouTube for maxx prop. I have the original 17inch LH brass prop that was on the boat if anyone needs one.

 

2

Ensign / Re: pearson ensign blade lead block track location

« on: September 20, 2020, 12:15:48 PM »

I took a look out on the Ensign class forum and found an interesting discussion thread on the blade jib tracks with the following quote:

For racing you have to install them where the Class indicates. If for cruising the better location is along the outboard edge of the cabin deck. As far outboard as possible.

Even though I am no longer racing my plan is to configure my boat to adhere to one design rules as designated on the deck plan. One fleet who use blade jibs exclusively has come up with a clever way to move the sheeting angle outboard with a 2:1 sheet through a pad eye and trim it with a dedicated winch.

3

Ensign / Re: pearson ensign blade lead block track location

« on: September 20, 2020, 11:12:08 AM »

The jib blade tracks are the fore-most tracks on the deck plan, item #35.  Their midpoint is 7'6" aft of the stem-head on a diagonal line but I can' read the dimensions from centerline.  I need to mount them on my Ensign also.

4

Ports & Hatches / Re: Anchor Locker Hatch - P323

« on: June 05, 2020, 02:45:39 PM »

Finally got the hatch back on the boat.  I used the West Systems instructions to drill a matrix of 1/2" holes and fill them with thickened epoxy with a syringe. After each series of holes filled I weighed it down with heavy blocks to set up. It corrected all of the de-lamination issues but it did destroy the old non-skid surface in the process of filling/sanding.

To refinish I used a non-skid called Kiwi-grip with a more aggressive texture which I thought would be good to stand on while handling ground tackle. It is a water based product that rolls on easy and was discounted at Defender.com. I will attach before and after photos. It is good to have solid footing on the foredeck again.

The bright white hatch stands out from the faded deck color - I am thinking about mixing a gray paint that matches my cove stripe.


 

5

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: What is this?

« on: May 20, 2020, 08:04:06 AM »

Mine has a cowl before the anchor locker - not a great place for it as it can be easily fouled and knocked loose...

6

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Please help me identify this fixture on my Pearson 27

« on: May 05, 2020, 07:12:09 AM »

It is a mystery. My first thought is a locking mechanism of some sort  to cleat the traveler line - just a guess on my part.

7

General Discussion / Re: Clinton Pearson, RIP

« on: April 16, 2020, 09:34:54 AM »

Thanks for sharing - its the end of an era for the Pearson Cousins. It was in late 2017 that Everett passed and I had saved this brief obit, but I don't recall the source of it:

Founding Father of Fiberglass, Everett Pearson Passes
He And His Followers Brought Affordable Boating to America's Middle Class

Everett A. Pearson, the leading pioneer of production fiberglass boat production, crossed the bar this week. He was 84. Pearson Yachts and its successors were known mostly for their sailboats, but ventured into power with the stylish True North series, represented above by the True North 34.

Pearson was the co-founder of Pearson Yachts, the first company to build production fiberglass boats, earning him the title "grandfather of fiberglass production." In 1968, he continued his boatbuilding and fiberglass work with the start of Tillotson-Pearson Inc. (TPI). TPI built wind blades, all-composite bus bodies, test track vehicles for Disney Imagineering, the branches on the Animal Kingdom Tree of Life, numerous other products, and the most well-known, J Boats.

It was the widespread adoption of fiberglass as pioneered by Pearson that made recreational boating affordable to the World War II generation and their children.

8

Ports & Hatches / Re: Anchor Locker Hatch - P323

« on: January 28, 2020, 02:11:45 PM »

Thanks for the good advice, but after removing the hatch lid I found that it is still very solid and the root cause is de-laminating over much of its surface, hence the "flex" in several areas when you walk on it. It does not appear to be moisture related but probably related to stress fractures/fatigue over the years, or perhaps a manufacturing problem. After realizing this I am changing my approach to a fix.

My first thought was to build a new hatch cover with 1" COOSA Board, which is strong, water-proof, and easy to work with power tools. This seemed like a great material and solution with the exception that the old hatch lid has a bit of a curvature in it (3/8" rise in the middle), and to use a flat replacement board may be more difficult than I initially thought.

As I stress tested the old hatch lid once it was removed I now realize that it is still very sturdy and a good fit for the curvature of the deck. For this reason my new approach is to use West System's method of correcting de-lamination. This involves drilling a matrix of 1/4" holes every 1" and injecting epoxy.  This will be time consuming but I have plenty of epoxy on hand and I can buy syringes in bulk if I need to. It will require that the surface be refinished with either Gelcoat or paint and I need to do more research on what non-skid product/method to use.

9

Interior Structures / Re: P323 V-Berth Sliding Door

« on: January 24, 2020, 10:57:56 AM »

Thanks for the feedback, it sounds like the original track design may have been marginal - hence the original door had been removed from the boat before we got it.

We had been told the door was manufactured with Melamine on MDF so that is the material we used to have a local shop build it for us. But after a few years sitting on the track it warped significantly. Either the shop did not do a quality job or MDF is not the proper material to use - I suspect the latter.

Since the doorway is more square at the top, and the door is heavy, we are considering a barn door style track with rollers at the top. 

10

Interior Structures / P323 V-Berth Sliding Door

« on: January 14, 2020, 05:50:32 PM »

Once again we are revisiting the sliding door. Our original was missing when we got the boat so we had made a replacement that has now warped and is binding up. It did not slide very well to begin with as it was sitting directly on the track so it has been left open for the most part. 

What is the sliding mechanism on the P323 original door?  Does it have rollers on the bottom? Do others have problems opening and closing the door? Our bottom track is not aligned very well, the liner/floor is higher on one side and the bulkhead bows out making it difficult to align a door properly.  It seems to be more squarely aligned at the top so I was thinking of putting rollers and a track at the top of the door.   

11

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Spartite Kit for P323

« on: December 02, 2019, 05:52:13 PM »

While researching the Spartite solution I noticed that it is a very similar idea as that of the "urethane" wedge that was used by Pearson as original equipment -- except that I believe it will be more watertight. When I pulled my mast it had been underneath a canvas cover for decades and was so corroded that both the wedge and aluminum collar were seized to the mast. I had to cut the collar off with a grinder and inadvertently damaged the wedge at the same time. (I had a custom aluminum collar and mast step fabricated by DC products). When I stepped the mast I put a mast boot on it but it did not fit very well over the aluminum collar and decided to remove it once I had Spartite in place.

Here is the product review on Spartite from West Marine:
"Once solid, Spartite provides even support around the mast section, absorbs shock loads and distributes rig loads evenly. The one-piece ring ensures proper mast placement at all times and virtually eliminates water leaks. It stays attached to the mast when the rig is out of the boat".

Before pouring in the compound I rubbed vaseline (it comes in the kit) around the outside perimeter and base as a release agent. When the mast is unstepped it should slide out of the deck along with the mast. And since it acts as a shock absorber and distributes the load evenly around the mast I am anticipating it will not break up. I will let you (and Spartite Corp.) know if it breaks up while sailing this season!

12

Ports & Hatches / Anchor Locker Hatch - P323

« on: November 30, 2019, 09:07:02 AM »

The deck hatch for my anchor locker has become weak with age.  It creaks when you step directly on it and the gelcoat is cracked. I am doing research on the best way to re-enforce it with fiberglass.

Does anyone have experience with this type of repair?  If so can you share your experiences or recommended process for strengthening this hatch with fiberglass. 

13

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Spartite Kit for P323

« on: November 29, 2019, 10:33:20 PM »

I decided to order the smaller kit for the P323 and it was big enough with material to spare. 

For those that are not familiar with it, Spartite is a 2-part material you mix to fill the gap between the mast and deck and let it harden.

Process:
I built the dam (foam, clay, and masking tape) around the mast and poured in the material to fill about 1/4" over the collar.
I will try and write it up for the projects page.  I took this photo when I removed the masking tape - I had put a wedge at the back of the mast to maximize a 360 degree seal around the mast. This was taken before I did the final trim and clean up. It looks to be a very water-tight solution and I am happy with the results.

14

Mast and Spar Issues / Spartite Kit for P323

« on: November 10, 2019, 08:31:05 PM »

I am ordering the Spartite kit for my P323 to seal the mast partners. Anybody know if I will need the small kit (51 cubic inches) or large kit (102 cubic inches)? 

15

Cruising / Re: Pirate Race 2019

« on: November 10, 2019, 08:23:51 PM »

Nice work, how were the wind conditions?