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Messages - Alma

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Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Loose Bonding wire
« on: December 25, 2022, 04:13:05 PM »
That stud is there to keep the oblong inlet strainer located fore and aft and also as a convenient place for bonding wire.

The stud is the original Bronze? If so I'd source two bronze nuts to fit and run one up against the hull a little tight then the wire's terminal then the second nut against the terminal.

Resist the temptation to install washers unless they are also the same metal material as the stud which was originally the same as the through hull fitting- Bronze.

The terminal is silver but it is plated copper so it should last another 40 years- especially in fresh water sailing.

P303 / Re: P303 Gear Shifter Remote Cable
« on: December 25, 2022, 04:04:58 PM »
Before you replace the cable clean up the transmission lever and make sure it operates smoothly without the cable- Insure its OK to shift the lever with engine stopped before you proceed. The cable is robust for its job. They break when the shift lever at transmission is binding.  It would be possible to add threads to the existing cable. You only need five or six threads and it looks like you have 3-4. You'll want to insure the the angles are the same if you recycle the cable and alter its mount geometry.  You need some 'swing' in the cable to prevent it from shearing off again.

YES it is 'character building' to replace the cable through the pedestal with all the steering mechanism and any wires (to compass light) in place. If you need to get in there, make it worthwhile and adjust and lube all the steering components. Its a good time to check the throttle and its cable too. It will make the ordeal more bearable knowing you addressed a few maintenance items within the pedestal in one shot-

The BIG THING you DO NOT want to do is loosen the cable bracket screw on the pedestal so far it comes loose and parts fall down the pedestal- That is a big mess since the parts resist a magnet. Its not a great idea probing around with a magnet near where a compass mounts anyway.

Find a comfortable day and take your time. If you get stuck stop. It is tedious but not difficult.

P303 / Re: P303 #221 1985 StarGazer II
« on: December 25, 2022, 03:48:16 PM »
We have been using Plastimo water tank for over five years now and it is fine.

For the price you can't go wrong.

General Discussion / Re: Our new Pearson Portsmouth 43
« on: December 25, 2022, 03:45:19 PM »
Thanks- The more I see of her the more I like.

General Discussion / Our new Pearson Portsmouth 43
« on: December 12, 2022, 02:54:12 PM »
I stumbled onto this Pearson Portsmouth 43 and we closed on her yesterday.

We'll berth her next to ALMA and she will be our 3 season home (away from home).

She is a 1973 and the Pearson lineage is so obvious. She was built in the Portsmouth Yard and designed by BIll Shaw.
She isn't an Arctic Explorer and we have no need for one. Her 3.5' draft is perfect for the Bay and inland waterway we intend to use her in.

The accommodations are spectacular!

What a perfect boat for us now.

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Loose Bonding wire
« on: December 03, 2022, 03:12:28 PM »
Look at all the metal items in bilge and insure they are bonded. This may be the engine water inlet bonding lug. Pearson bonded every through hull. They even bonded my plastic through hull to the anchor locker above the water line.

Sails and Canvas / Re: Looking for a used 95% Jib - P323
« on: October 23, 2022, 03:42:40 PM »
Did you cut the luff or leach? I've got a unique luff to go with my ReefRite furler.

Sails and Canvas / Re: Looking for a used 95% Jib - P323
« on: October 18, 2022, 10:03:46 AM »
I'm looking for a 135 or so too. My 150 is such a chore to tack and impossible to tack under jib alone. So many sail under jib alone in my area and it sure is convenient. Other boats spin right into a tack- ALMA stalls even at 4 knots. I'm thinking the 150 is the problem.


Engine and Drive Train / Re: Leaking Stern Tube! Help!
« on: September 22, 2022, 06:15:42 PM »
If the stern tube is in satisfactory condition install one of these.

It is the best solution and maintenance free.

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: 323 rear pulpit
« on: July 07, 2022, 02:52:50 PM »
My stanchions are still tight and dry. I did have to have my push-pit re-welded at the struts and it is funny I see that same crack in many 323 push-pits. Maybe that smaller tubing is a slightly different alloy. I bought some white synthetic gasket material and this was 15 years ago. The bow and stern mounting flanges require something to make up for them being a little different from each other- the stanchions should lie very flat and need little goo or gasket. My stanchions are all original and still water tight. Since the stanchions are mounted to a cored deck the method Selene used is best. A small doughnut of butyl around the fasteners is all you need. If you butyl the whole base you'll chase oozing for along time. The issue is as the butyl flows, the fasteners will become loose and rocking of the bases will work the remaining butyl out and allowing water in. Rocking bases can also shift the epoxy so try to make them very secure. When you remove the bases you may see the gaskets are fine... Then I'd use Selene's epoxy treatment and reuse the gaskets. The original backing plates are good. Reuse them.

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: 323 rear pulpit
« on: June 28, 2022, 11:35:57 AM »
Yes it is a hard plastic. And it has lasted many many years. Why do you want to disturb it?

General Discussion / Re: Builder's Plate
« on: June 28, 2022, 11:23:00 AM »
When cast from your original plastic plate there is minor shrinkage since the molten metal fills the void in the mold then cools and shrinks a little. I was able to 'dress' the holes in mine to make the plate fit and look perfect.

I may have fasteners you need I’ll need to check.

I used plastic insulators between mast, boom and brackets to reduce galvanic corrosion.

These insulators can b made from suitable plastic bottles coolant bleach or oil. Be sure to sandwich the insulators when you use brackets as drill guides or holes won’t line up. Then u can tap threads in the spars.

If I have the machine screws I used I can send u some

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Bronze Prop Shaft Problems
« on: January 09, 2022, 09:07:49 PM »
You should have good experience with Rudy. He has sold me quite a few things in the last 25 years.

+1 My two PAR pumps are still going strong since 1977!

One supplies fresh water to sink and shower the other drains the shower sump.

EBAY can be a source of new old stock parts for them. And if you see one used grab it as many parts are usable among the different models.

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