Messages

226

Ports & Hatches / Re: Resealing and Rebedding Fixed Ports

« on: September 03, 2015, 07:00:22 PM »

Remember the window assembly is flat. It will not flex to the contour of the cabinsides exterior. That means you will have thicker sealant at the forward and aft ends to make up for a larger gap. Always replace the vinyl window channel within the frames when you rebed the windows. Many times the leak is between the glass and frame within the vinyl gasket. Good Luck!

227

Ports & Hatches / Re: Resealing and Rebedding Fixed Ports

« on: September 01, 2015, 04:17:38 PM »

You can use your calipers to find the largest average thickness of both inside liner and boat's outside cabin sides. Then using matchsticks shim the thinner areas to match. Then use thickened epoxy to bridge gaps and make a solid unibody for the ports to fit into.

228

Engine and Drive Train / Re: gallons per hour

« on: July 16, 2015, 06:10:14 PM »

After this question last week I revisited the ignition timing on my A4.

Being a hot-rod I always bump the timing as high as the motor likes without regard to factory specs. So last weekend I backed it off a tiny amount to see if it would decrease my oil consumption. Do any of you have the aftermarket PVC kit? I do, and although it keeps the boat and engine compartment smelling fresh- I believe it increases oil consumption. A knowledgable motorcyclist I know said engines like A4 and aircraft engines should not have PVC because of their constant load running conditions. Ideas? I can burn a quart in 8 hours if I am crashing into a head sea... There is no evidence of smoke, sheen on water or oil in bilge and spark plugs are even and clean. I know an engine with timing too far advanced will consume oil so I am not only looking for smoothness (the companionway ladder is a good gauge) but a reduction in oil consumption. I use 40W and change it at each tankful of fuel (30 hours). The engine is smooth and powerful so adding oil is only a small inconvenience.

229

Engine and Drive Train / Re: gallons per hour

« on: July 09, 2015, 08:11:42 PM »

Lucky you. You will find the A4 is the sailors best friend.

I burn about 1.25 gallons/hr when running hard. I also use a little oil so check yours often 'till you get a feel for oil consumption.

Check and see if you have an adjustable main jet at the bottom front of your carberator. If not, get one from Moyer marine. The original main jet runs rich- Rich is better than lean for a one size fits all configuration. An adjustable one allows fine tuning.

To set your ignition timing for best power and economy run at crusing speed and undo the lock on distributer and turn the distributer slightly to get the best speed- then turn it so you go a little slower.

A great upgrade is electronic ignition. The best is pertronix. Moyer sells it but you can do better on line.

Enjoy your Atomic 4- It is superior to any Diesel for coastal cruising. A lot of folks will poo-poo the A 4. Do not listen to them.

Good Luck!

230

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Fuel Gauge

« on: June 10, 2015, 01:00:48 PM »

Nice! Volts And Amps- Belt and Suspenders...

Where did you buy that little tachymeter? I want one!

231

Cruising / Re: First Sail 2015

« on: June 01, 2015, 08:21:29 PM »

Sweet!

232

Ports & Hatches / Re: Resealing and Rebedding Fixed Ports

« on: May 19, 2015, 11:26:17 AM »

Nice job! I posted earlier that I dropped the Portside aft window over the side onto the rocky boatyard below last month- No need to worry if these ports are not robust for offshore... I picked it up undamaged and installed it!

Enjoy the season and have a safe MEMORIAL DAY!

233

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Suggestions for pumping old diesel from my tank and tank cleaning.

« on: April 20, 2015, 11:57:50 AM »

You will find lots of info about "polishing" questionable Diesel fuel online. The only urgent thing i would consider is the option you have for free disposal of the old fuel.

A service company would charge a fortune for taking away the old fuel! Take advantage of your "free" opportunity ASAP. Get what you can out if it is really no-good then move from there. If it is an aluminum tank do not use a copper tube to remove the old fuel. A tiny amount of copper left in an aluminum tank can be a disaster.

Get a third opinion before proceeding- Someone who knows fuel and can see an actual sample from your tank. It is always possible you may burn it cruising with proper Diesel filters.

Good Luck-

234

Ports & Hatches / Re: Happy Holidays to my fellow 323 Enthusiasts! (also rebedding fixed ports)

« on: April 18, 2015, 06:02:29 AM »

I used two courses of Butyl on the frame flanges. Another third in a "c" shape around the ends and about 8" towards the center to make up for the cabinsides camber. With the extrusions cleaned of silicone I still struggled getting the frames in with a "dry fit" so I very carefully removed material from the apertures until a dry fit was easy enough (still hurky-jerky) that I wouldn't scrape away Butyl once the flanges had the courses of tape applied. I didn't need to fill voids as I had filled 'n faired the apertures with shims and thickened epoxy 13 years ago when I last did this renovation. When I epoxied the cabinsides to the hull liner I made that area slightly wider than it was with just the cabinsides and hull liner. This prevents me from getting the same amount of "play" in slipping the extrusions into the apertures. See Ed's photos to see how this upgrade is done. It is tedious but worth it to have a consistent thickness for the flanges and more importantly the clamping interior piece upon assembly. Here in Jersey last week I did need to apply some tension to the screws and re torque them after a day or so. They do NOT leak!

We have a beautiful High Pressure in the Mid-Atlantic this weekend for 323 work.

I'll be tied up in Hershey, PA for the world's biggest PORSCHE swap-meet!

Enjoy!

235

Ports & Hatches / Re: Happy Holidays to my fellow 323 Enthusiasts! (also rebedding fixed ports)

« on: April 15, 2015, 05:54:17 PM »

Well- I just rebuilt my ports again. I guess the vinyl glazing channel is only good for about 13 years... Why it lasts indefinitely in shoreside storm windows is anyone's guess.

I really had a tough time removing the ports. I had used so much silicone bedding them last time, the channels in the extrusions were filled in places with silicone caulk. That prevented the hurky-jerky motion to lift the ports up and out. Last weekend I did the Port side. One day to remove the Port side ports and another day overhauling them and reinstalling them back at the boat yard. I also used Compass Butyl Caulk. I used two courses around the ports and another course at each end and another 2" section behind the seams. The caulk squeezed out nicely and was easy to clean up. I shall never again use silicone other than to bed plastic!

This last weekend I tackled the Starboard side pair. It took me three hours to get the caulk out of the channels and remove the aft port. I took my time and kept at it until the Starboard aft port was able to be pushed out of the cabin side. I pushed and POP- RIGHT OVER THE SIDE!!!!

I didn't bother running down the ladder to the boatyard's stone and mud- I really didn't give an earthworm's bottom what happened. It would've been the push I needed to 'glass up the sides and call NFM for new stainless opening ports.

Incredibly the window was UNDAMAGED!

The forward starboard side window came out in 20 minutes...

They are all back in and look good. We had our share of rain early this week- I'll go down tomorrow with a hose and see if they are watertight!

236

Steering System, Hull Structure / Re: Jack stand position

« on: April 09, 2015, 01:40:54 PM »

The dents you speak of always indicate the stands were not checked and adjusted through the off season. As the ground settles all the stands must be adjusted. Don't worry. Like everything else, something will come along that would make you forget this-

Years ago I telephoned and asked a yard worker to lift my boat a little so I could put bottom paint under the dunnage beneath my boat's keel. Imagine my horror when I arrived to see he cranked up both stern stands and left my boat perched high above the dunnage supported by only the front of the keel and rear jack stands! Our 323s are tough. There was no "oil canning" and no perceivable damage. Learn to gauge the tension of your stands by the tension on the bottle screws and track this yourself. No worries-

237

General Discussion / Re: Insurance scam-

« on: March 18, 2015, 06:17:30 PM »

Liability coverage is important if you own anything.

238

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: cabin lights. aka "Elevator lights"?

« on: March 12, 2015, 08:06:18 PM »

LED Large!

239

General Discussion / Re: Insurance scam-

« on: March 10, 2015, 02:36:12 PM »

Did they require a survey?

240

General Discussion / Re: The Thaw.. but Liberty Harbor Marina is solid ice.

« on: March 09, 2015, 01:59:54 PM »

OUCH! Yep- lots of ice all over.