Messages

46

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Teakwood coachroof grab rails.

« on: September 25, 2020, 11:47:25 PM »

I replaced the teak toe rails on my 31-2 with PlasTeak.com, and love them, as have many others who don't even realize they're not wood till they're on the boat, and even not then sometimes. Mine came straight, but I had NO problems bending them to the shapes needed to install them, and don't see any reason why you couldn't do the same with yours (if they can make them long enough for you purpose). And you keep the same look of the teak, but with NONE of the work .   

47

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: 31-2 Fresh Water vents

« on: July 28, 2020, 12:08:52 AM »

someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the earlier hulls did not have vents. My #252 does, but you still can't trust them to fill your tanks. I tried like I had on previous boats I owned, waiting till the water came out the vent, but when I went down into the cabin, if was also full of water. This has happened more than a few times when overfilling the tanks by mistake. I always fill them from the deck, but have to keep an eye on them through the tank access, then run out to shut the water off. I've tried sealing the access ports, tightening them, etc., but nothing stops them from leaking into the cabin. I've removed all the covers to check for cracks, but the tanks are sound. So vent or not vent, with a 31-2, you seem to have to be careful filling the water tanks!!

48

Engine and Drive Train / Re: 2GM20F water

« on: July 23, 2020, 11:11:57 AM »

it's easy to be sure the water pump is working...just open up the water filter before the engine and see if it's getting proper water flow from the pump. If so, then you're problem definitely lies on the other side of the filter and could be as you're thinking....somethings plugged!

49

Engine and Drive Train / Re: 2GM20F water

« on: July 19, 2020, 10:38:19 PM »

you say everything "looks" fine, but until you actually change the impeller for a new one, I suspect then you will find your problem. The only other thing would be a piece of the rubber from the old impeller lodged in the outlet of the pump, but again, you said it all looks fine.  Other than those 2 ideas, the only other ideas would be a loose fan belt or the impeller somehow is no longer turning when the engine is running, and that would mean the shaft key is damaged, or the shaft itself.  Good luck!!!

50

Steering System, Hull Structure / Re: Binnacle Sissy Bar

« on: July 03, 2020, 08:25:25 PM »

Good luck and let us know how you make out!!!  and maybe how much your brother might want for pairs in the future for any else looking for them

51

Steering System, Hull Structure / Re: Binnacle Sissy Bar

« on: July 02, 2020, 11:09:56 PM »

if you happen to know anyone with one, a 3D printer would do the trick I imagine

52

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Holding tank vent

« on: June 28, 2020, 10:48:59 AM »

my existing tank in the V-berth area vented out behind the Head cupboard. I wanted to add a 2nd one to vent in and produce better air flow with one taking air in and 1 taking it back out, so I just got the right size hole drill and went through the hull beside the original one. No issues.  FYI, the bigger you can go, the better. I ended up with a 5/8" hose for the 2nd one, but still have all the parts for a 1" that I had planned to go with, but changed my mind

53

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: Replacing the shore power receptacle

« on: June 18, 2020, 07:16:59 PM »

I wouldn't think so as it is a completely different system...AC vs DC   I know on my boat I wouldn't need to.

54

Ports & Hatches / Re: Beckson 414 opening ports

« on: June 13, 2020, 12:11:05 AM »

heating AND a "little" stretching are necessary to put the gaskets in easily....I was taught to put them around something that would slightly stretch them and leave them in the sun for awhile....my first aid tool box was JUST the right size and once heated and stretched it only took minutes to get each gasket in all 4 of my Beckson ports.

55

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Ritchie Compass Factory Reconditioning Program

« on: June 10, 2020, 11:51:59 AM »

I sent mine  30 year old 201 back to Ritchie under their : Factory Reconditioning Program, and for $167US (including shipping back to Canada), I got a brand new one back.  GREAT program and service from them....I highly recommend them if you need to renew your Ritchie compass   They even made sure there were no custom fees on my end making sure it was declared as a warranty replacement, which is was.

56

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Dockside engine removal

« on: May 28, 2020, 09:52:15 PM »

if your dripless is like mine on my 31-2, it's already held back by the locking brackets. I would then try to install a zinc anode (I've done it underwater before) on the shaft right behind the cutlass bearing to hold the shaft in place from springing forward (guess vice grips would work too, but you'd risk scoring the shaft), then if you remove the shaft coupler from the tranny coupler, the whole shaft "should" just stay in place....I'm doing this from memory right now, but I'm pretty sure there should be no issue removing the engine if locked from the engine side and cutlass side....installing the new engine though could present a problem should you need to adjust the shaft to fit the new install.  If anyone finds fault with this, please chime in

57

General Discussion / Re: P30 sail cover

« on: April 30, 2020, 11:24:13 AM »

I have a P31-2, so can't help you much with the measurements. But once you do have them, you may want to check this out:

https://www.leesailcovers.com/mainsail-pack-1/

Till I got this 4 years ago, I probably used my main 10 times in 5 years (just too much hassle to travel from island to island in the North Channel). But the first year I installed this I used my main more than twice as much in that year than I did the previous 5 It's great, and inexpensive compared to Doyle and similar makes. And so easy to work with, especially when you get the sail ready for use, but don't use it...you just zip it up again!!!

Contact Becky as she does these and sail covers, so she may already have the measurements you seek.

OR, you can have my old Navy Blue sail cover from my boat it that color works for you. It's just sitting in the garage.

58

Interior Structures / Re: Plas-teak or other synthetics

« on: March 23, 2020, 11:55:11 PM »

I went the expensive way so as to have original 7' lengths (custom cuts), and it only cost me $360US then. If I had gone with 6' lengths (normal sheet lengths), it would've only cost just over $200, but I wasn't sure it could work. Now after doing the job, I think it could have. Also, I went with 1 7/8" vs their 2", but that WAS a mistake. Get the 2". I had them hollow out the bottom to allow room for the bolt heads, but the 1 7/8" width did not allow enough room for the bolt heads and I had to countersink each spot separately. I believe the 2" would fit better.

59

Interior Structures / Re: Plas-teak or other synthetics

« on: March 21, 2020, 09:06:33 PM »

I can't speak to the flooring, but I replaced my toe rails with PlasTEAK out of Ohio, and have loved it from day one. 7 years later, I've had no issues and still looks like new. Most people don't even notice till onboard or I actually have to point it out. I wouldn't give it a second thought to changing over for my Teak and Holly sole when it comes time.  That said, my sole was in bad shape too, and I scraped off all the old coatings, sanded and it came up quite well. There were some parts of the Holly stripes that were too far gone, but I touched them up with some matching paint and then recoated with satin varnish which again covered up many flaws and the sole looks great. If the wood is black all the way through from top to bottom, there's no hope. But if it's just surface damage, give one piece a go and see how well it comes back   good luck!!!

60

For Sale and Wanted / Re: Free set of P31-2 teak toe rails

« on: February 22, 2020, 12:05:17 AM »

still available!