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Messages - Last Resort

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16
Welcome and hope you enjoy yours as much as we do ours!!!  Lots of info here you'll be needing, and if you can't find what you're looking for here, I also hang out, learn and inform on the Google Pearson Group    https://groups.google.com/g/pearson-boats   . There's lots to learn from the 2 sites here and there!!!  ENJOY!!!!


17
P323 / Re: Pearson 323 boat speed under power?
« on: February 10, 2023, 04:00:07 PM »
you should've got suggestions for a new prop/pitch/diameter from the engine seller.  Also, the rpms are important for full speed.  With my 2gm20, a 16D 11P would only give me 2600 rpm at full throttle and I'd achieve 6kts, but I could not beat against any strong waves without dropping to well below 3kts speed. I went to a 15D 11P prop and now gained 800 rpms, and now can achieve over 5kts against strong waves no problem. So all that said, how many rpms are you getting now with the new motor. If you're reaching above 3000rpm and no speed, my guess is your under propped, and of course if the opposite and can't get more than 2500rpm, then over propped.  Either way you need to work with both the diameter and pitch of the prop to get the best results.  I haven't looked into it yet, but like you, if I installed a new motor, I'd go 25/30hp as well, but just off the top of my head, I presumed I'd have to go with a bigger diameter than 15" and find the appropriate pitch to match, and expect the engine seller to provide the info for his prop in my boat. Good Luck!!!

18
For Sale and Wanted / Re: Parts for Pearson 36-2
« on: December 15, 2022, 10:08:39 AM »
for the instrument panel, my original Yanmar was in bad shape when I bought my boat in 2011, but I found brand new ones still available at the dealers.  I was only the plate and I had to swap out all the gauges, key, etc., but it sure looks nice even now.  If yours is a Yanmar as well, I believe they're still available.
Here's a used one on eBay with tach and everything included if it matches and that's what you need.   https://www.ebay.ca/itm/153851669455    Toad Marine Supply also has it for around $900 new. 

Here's a link to just the plate if that's all you need:  https://shop.toadmarinesupply.com/ships_store/?p=details&mfc=Yanmar&sku=128170-91010


20
Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Gas spring for frig, P31-2 ??
« on: September 17, 2022, 01:08:55 PM »
Updated: 

I replaced mine about 7 years ago on my 90 31-2.  I ordered 2, a 50# and a 70#.  The seller recommended the 45-50#, but since he only sold pairs, I got 1 50# and 1 70#.  The problem is remembering which one I kept installed for use and which one I put in the garage for storage.  Saying that, I "know" I just recently threw out a pile of gas struts I had collected through the years, and unfortunately, the other good one I stored was in that pile, so I can't eliminate which one I used that way :(    If you can find an 50-60# one, I'd go with that :) 

21
Engine and Drive Train / Re: engine shakes
« on: June 10, 2022, 09:03:07 PM »
not sure how much shaking your talking about, but I've never been able to run my 2gm20 between 2200 and 2500 rpms without some vibration/shaking. Just seems that one spot that won't run smooth.

22
Engine and Drive Train / Re: pearson shaft tube on 303
« on: December 22, 2021, 09:24:33 AM »
the install looks perfect from what I can see. It has to be all the way down to the stern. The compression comes from the other end and can be difficult to do....I always get something to force in-between the end of the engine coupler and seal to keep it in place while tightening the seal down. I have a Supco Belt tensioning tool I use for my alternator that works well for tightening the seal as well.  Just know that each spring, if you just put the boat in the water "without" turning the shaft a few times first, it WILL leak!!!   As for a picture of mine, the boat is 6hrs away on the hard, so can't help you there :)

23
Engine and Drive Train / Re: pearson shaft tube on 303
« on: December 19, 2021, 07:20:35 PM »
I own a 31-2, so can't help you specifically, but that looks the same as my PSS dripless shaft seal for my boat.  What exactly are you in need of the measurements?  It appears you have them right in front of you, so I imagine you're wondering about something involving them that perhaps we can answer.

24
P26 / Re: HIN
« on: October 26, 2021, 05:39:14 PM »
good luck to you, sounds stressful!  Especially if you're insurance companies in the US are the same as here in Canada right now.  First, many of our insurance companies won't even insure a boat over 30 years old now, and if they do, it's only at market price, not your surveyed price. Also, I just found out that none of ours will insure a "homemade" boat...it has to be from a known boat builder.  Now we know yours is, but somehow you might have to prove it.  AGAIN, Good Luck!!!

25
I found a perfect clock on ebay as discussed here in length: 

https://groups.google.com/g/pearson-boats/c/KFUWI-2lk0k


26
I've done so many....replaced teak toe rails with PlasTeak, led lighting, mechanical Garmin Autopilot (quiet), solar panel, cooler conversion to frig-o-boat, new solid SS legs for table, and more I can't think of right now, but one of the first mods I did was replace my safety lines and in doing so I installed the same gate on the PORT side where it should've been in the first place.  I really didn't like people going through my cockpit to fill the diesel :(   

27
I know it's a simple solution by just disconnecting it and sticking another clock of sorts over it, but I'm wondering if anyone has found a nice clock to wire in that can replace the old existing TIMEWATCH that's connected to the system with something more digital LED that use's less than the 0.05amps the existing one uses. It was actually this clock that drained my AGMs this spring after the batteries were charged by my marina, but left connected with the battery switch in the OFF position thinking that was suffice, but the clock is always connected, at least mine is. The most I've managed is to connect it to the RADIO breaker and it blinks all night, but still at 0.03amps. Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.

28
General Discussion / Re: Need help finding a leak
« on: June 09, 2021, 03:18:33 PM »
I know about leaks causing you issues...drives me crazy too once I get a dry bilge.  I had 2 such instances with my 90 P31-2. 1st turned out to be a hole in the exhaust hose right back at the transom...took 2 years to figure that one out :(  Next was my water heater is right beside the area you mention, and the release valve had weakened and kept letting water out once hot, and it took a bit to figure that one out too, until I actually had a minor flood while on the hard :(    Hope some of this helps and good luck!!!


29
Interior Structures / Re: Salon Table base
« on: June 08, 2021, 11:00:12 AM »
years ago in my P31-2 I had the same issue with the legs and the table leaning. I paid my local Stainless Steel guy to rebuilt me 2 legs modeled from the originals and I had him build them U-shaped so they "cupped" the stringers they were attached to (if you go this way, don't forget to make a template of the stringers). This way I was able to bolt them in from the sides as well as the tops. Now my table is SOLID and doesn't budge a bit :)  and the SS looks much nicer than the aluminum legs did :)


30
For Sale and Wanted / Re: Companionway washboards wanted 28-2
« on: May 07, 2021, 08:04:09 PM »
Mine were rotting too, so I had them remade with solid 1/2" smoked plexiglass....I love them with more light in the cabin and now can see out too at when enclosed below.  A bit expensive using 1/2" solid, but worth it!.  they even routed out the ends to lock them together like the teak ones.


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