Messages

16

Engine and Drive Train / Re: propeller hits dock line! Yep!

« on: July 07, 2019, 10:19:07 PM »

Congratulations. All is well in 323 Land.

17

Engine and Drive Train / Re: propeller hits dock line! Yep!

« on: July 03, 2019, 09:28:08 PM »

Not a smart person. Just been there done that. There must be some reason that is stalling out the engine.

18

Engine and Drive Train / Re: propeller hits dock line! Yep!

« on: July 02, 2019, 10:05:00 PM »

This is a really stupid question but did you inspect the prop for damage and make sure there are no additional lines wrapped around the prop, shaft or strut.

19

Engine and Drive Train / Re: tighten packing gland?

« on: June 23, 2019, 10:47:24 PM »

It has been a while since I have adjusted my stuffing box because I converted to a dripless system but to the best of my memory this is how to do it. You do not worry about the prop shaft at all when you are adjusting the stuffing box. All the adjustments are done with nuts on the stuffing box. Simply use two large plumbers wrench to accomplish the job. With one wrench lossen the large locking nut, the forward one of the two nuts that  goes around the shaft. Once the locking nut is lose you can now tighten down the back nut to reduce the drip. The stuffing box should drip one drop every 30 seconds. Once you have it adjusted to the right drip amount tighten up the locking nut.  Good Luck.

20

P36 / Re: Throttle Replacement

« on: May 30, 2019, 01:28:40 PM »

Try Edson    www.edsonmarine.com

21

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: A little plumbing help for a newbie

« on: May 14, 2019, 09:52:37 PM »

Hi  I am not sure I can help you but I will describe the set up on my 1982 Pearson 323.  My main galley sink drains directly  into a hose for one of my cockpit scuppers, The cockpit scupper drain directly overboard below the waterline. That may explain why you don't  see the water going any where. The sink in the head as well as the shower drain into a collection box (shower sump) located in the bilge. This keeps the gray washing water from going into the bilge and mixing with any water collected in the bilge.  The gray water in the collection box is then pumped over board, via a thru hull above the water line near the head with a separate pump that is activated by a push pull switch. My switch is located in the head area but yours may be someplace different.  That is the set up on my boat anyway and it may answer some of your questions, especially if the plumbing is similar

22

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Raw water? Fresh water? Huh?

« on: October 08, 2018, 11:02:53 PM »

All the 323 engines take in lake or seawater to cool them. The difference between raw water cooling and fresh water cooling is the presents of a heat exchanger, A heat exchanger is a device where two liquids pass through separately but never mix. In a raw water cooled boat there is no heat exchanger and the external water source either lake or sea water is run though the engine block for cooling, In a fresh water cooled boat there is a heat exchanger  were the raw water source is used to cool the antifreeze that circulates inside the engine block.  Take a close look at you engine and see if you can find an antifreeze tank, very similar to your car. On my Volvo MD11c engine the  heat exchanger is a round tube about 16 inches long and 2 inches in diameter with 4 hose connections of raw water and antifreeze to enter and exit. It is located right above the exhaust manifold.   I hope that help

23

Steering System, Hull Structure / Re: Strut Coating

« on: May 23, 2018, 08:57:06 PM »

Too funny. I noticed the same thing this weekend while I was stripping bottom paint off the prop and shaft. I have had the boat many years and I could not remember if it was something I did while I was applying epoxy to the bottom.

24

Engine and Drive Train / Re: MD11C fuel filter

« on: May 20, 2017, 11:32:52 PM »

One of my mechanic friends gave me this little tip. I purchased some "bellows gasket cement"  I think it is made by Mercury Quicksilver, I use a few dabs of it on the top rim of the canister and then center the gasket on top of the canister than apply a few dabs of cement to the top of the gasket and than bolt it into place. I let it set up and dry and then fill the canister from the top with fresh diesel fuel once everything is back together.

Hope that helps

25

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Head vented loop

« on: April 19, 2017, 10:22:25 PM »

Hi

There is a definitely a vented loop in that area but it's been a few years since I have had it apart so I will take another look at it over the weekend, just to double check the information I am giving you is correct.

Steve

26

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Head vented loop

« on: April 19, 2017, 08:21:48 PM »

On my 1982 323 I have a vented loop. It is located in the V-berth on the starboard side sandwiched between the 3 storage cubby holes and the bulkhead that separated the V-berth and the head. it is up high, almost deck high. It is not visible unless you take all the storage cubby holes apart.

27

Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Repainting the cabin stripe

« on: November 19, 2015, 10:57:18 PM »

I also roll and tipped mine about 15 years ago. I used 3 coats of  an Interlux 2 party epoxy paint, I did it dark blue the same as the waterline. It still looks good.

28

Engine and Drive Train / heat exchanger - help sealing copper tubing

« on: May 29, 2015, 05:56:10 AM »

Hello all

Recently replaced the heat exchanger on my fresh water cooled MD11c Volvo. Still having trouble with the plumbing part and sealing the copper tubes. I used all new sealing rings and perfect seal gasket cement.
Any other tricks people have used?  Has anybody found a way to replace the copper cooling tubes with flexible hose?

Thanks for all your help in advance

29

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Hour Meter Wiring

« on: August 23, 2014, 03:25:35 PM »

To solve the problem of the hour meter not running and having to go below to turn the key on  my 323 with a diesel, I wired in a second key switch in the aft portion of starboard coaming box. It was a fairly simple process of splicing into the hot side of the ignition wire and mounting a key in the coaming box.. When I want to get underway I turn on the original ignition key located down below and then I turn on the second key located in the starboard coaming box and hit the start button as normal. When I'm done motoring I just reach in the coaming box and turn off the second key. This system requires a second ignition switch and it helps if both switches and keys are keyed alike to keep it simple. It also acts as a thief deterrent because both keys are required to be on. The second key is at the aft end of the coaming box out of site.  It works for me.

30

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Traveller

« on: November 13, 2013, 09:57:32 PM »

Hi All

New to the board but a long time 323 owner. Many years ago I replaced the traveler on my 323 with a traveler and block set up made by Harken, sold by my local marine supplier. I removed the original track and they bent one to the exact length and curvature of the original. The adjusting lines trail aft and the cars each have 4 rollers. ( I don't remember the ratio) The system works great. At the time I did it 1993, I think it cost me about $900 for all the hardware. I installed it myself which was not too difficult just time consuming to get under the old one and unbolt it.