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Messages - Dolce_Vita

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Steering System, Hull Structure / Re: Rudder to skeg play
« on: January 29, 2022, 02:21:07 PM »
Sounds like a lot to me.  My p323 has no detectable play between the rudder and the skeg.

That much play will introduce a significant amount of "deadband" in the steering. This deadband makes it difficult to steer a straight course by hand, and will overwork any autopilot, causing premature wear and  failure. 

First, welcome to the forum!  Lots of good info here, so don't be afraid to ask.

As for your water pump, our 323 to us came with the Jabsco PAR Model 36850-1000 belt-driven diaphragm pump.  These pumps are expensive ($400+), but extremely rugged, reliable, and long-lived.  If you have one of these, it is well-worth it to buy a service kit and rebuild it vs replacing it with a modern $69 pump that will only last a few years.

30122-0000 SERVICE KIT

P26 / Re: HIN
« on: November 03, 2021, 09:16:03 AM »
Given the information you've supplied, we almost have enough to generate the original HIN.

See the page here at
for details.

Since the boat was built before 1984, it uses the older form of the HIN:
Mfg + Model Code + hull num + "M" + year + month

As you stated, Pearson's Mfg code is "PEA".

The only 26' model produced in 1973 is model code "46"

Hull number is "558"

Year is "73"

Month is ? ("A" through "L")

Thus, HIN = PEA46558M73?

This gets you close, but close isn't good enough. 

Further research shows that over 1700 P26's were built.  Hull numbers in the 1976 timeframe were in the 1200 to 1369 range.  Since this exceeds the three digits allocated for hull number, they get truncated, often confusing things.  Since yours was built in model year '73, it's unlikely that the hull number exceeds 1000.

The best way I can think of to determine the final "month" character is to locate the HIN for either hull # 557 or 559.  These are almost certain to have been built in the same month as yours (hull #558).

With this in mind, I poured through Dan Pfeifer's old P26 archives, and found the following info:

1973 -- Peg & Bill Gray ( # 558, Esprit ) [ ] Upper Chesapeake Bay MD
1973 -- Gary Mckenzie ( # 559, Diamond LiL ) [ ] West Palm Beach, FL

Now I'm guessing you already have the first line, but the second line may give you another lead to follow.

Good Luck!

P26 / Re: HIN
« on: October 27, 2021, 09:23:39 AM »
The manufacturer's HIN is usually molded into the hull.  If the foil sticker has been applied over it, you may be able to read it without destroying the sticker by placing a sheet of paper over it and rubbing a soft pencil across it.

P323 / Re: P323 Registry?
« on: October 11, 2021, 12:14:26 PM »
Found it.

For reference:

Go to homepage

Follow menu:  Sailboats -> Models 31' - 35' -> Pearson 323

Click on menu item "Registry" ( )

This allows acces to the last static registry done in 2017,

Brian,  I know you were working on a way for the current data in the memberlist to be printed out in a similar format.
What ever happened to that effort?  I know you can tease out the same info using searches and filters on the memberlist,
but its not nearly as convenient.  I always used to carry a copy on my phone for quick reference.

P323 / P323 Registry?
« on: October 08, 2021, 12:08:08 PM »
Where has the P323 Registry gone?  I recently went to look for it to lookup a particular 323 and couldn't find it.

Install an oil pressure safety switch.  These are normally not present on diesel engines.  Then wire the hour meter through its NO contacts.  This will only run the hour meter when there's oil pressure.

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Jib Car replacement
« on: August 13, 2021, 11:00:45 AM »
Yes, two per track. One controls the lead angle into the winch, and the other controls the set of the jib.  They all appear to be original.

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Jib Car replacement
« on: August 12, 2021, 01:21:44 PM »
I’ve done two of these so far. I purchased enough sheaves and bolts to do all four. Since they’re all the same age, once one fails, the others can’t be far behind.
All for much less than the price of a single replacement car.

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: emergency tiller access port
« on: August 10, 2021, 06:33:10 PM »
Yes, the plate itself unscrews.  Odd that you have bolt heads there insteas of depressions.  It's supposed to look like your fuel and water caps, only bigger.

I have something called an adjustable deck plate wrench that opens it.

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Jib Car replacement
« on: August 10, 2021, 02:43:41 PM »
Take out the one screw in the black plastic end cap and remove it. The car can then be removed off the end of the track.

The car can be simply and economically repaired by drilling out the rivet and replacing the sheave. A stainless screw and a nylock nut replace the rivet. Be sure to retain and reuse the bronze bushing from the old sheave.

I thought I did a thread here somewhere, with photos, but I couldn't find it.  Anyway, here's some photos:

Ports & Hatches / Re: plexiglass source for Bomar hatch
« on: August 08, 2021, 07:28:06 PM »
Hi new member here having just bought Pearson 323 #94, originally bought new by my father in law in 1977!

Just rebedded the two deck hatches with Butyl tape, all good.  one of the hatches has a small leak around the plexi at the screws with some cracking as well.

I tried calling Bomar successor Pompanette and they don't sell hatch plexi of that type anymore.

So my questions are:
1.  Do I measure and have a replacement made from a shop, or their a ready made one available?
2.  What material should I use. plexiglass, lexan, etc and how thick?
3.  What do I use to seat in and seal the replacement material?

Any help greatly appreciated!

1) carefully remove the original lens, and use it to make a template out of 3/4” MDF. The template is then used to cut out the new lexan using a router with a template follower bit.

2) The hatch lens is  lexan, not plexiglass. Lexan sheets can be ordered from McMaster-Carr.

3) DO NOT use screws to reattach!  The different thermal expansion coefficient between the lens and the frame will crack the lens at the holes. Instead, use black Dow Corning 795. It is a high strength industrial adhesive designed to hold in glass windowpanes in high rise buildings.

I rebuilt mine this way and they have been leak free for 8 years.

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: emergency tiller access port
« on: August 08, 2021, 07:13:00 PM »
The screws need to stay in place. The cover is opened with a spanner wrench that fits into the two depressions in the cover. It screws off. If grit has gotten into the threads it can be quite difficult to remove the first time.

Ports & Hatches / Re: Another Ports Saga
« on: August 05, 2021, 02:49:42 PM »
Yes. I repainted the bandit stripe.  This was a whole big project in itself.  It kept me awake nights thinking about it.

I used a product called AlexSeal.  It is a two-part paint, but unlike Imron and Awlgrip it is a little more DIY friendly.

Andy at the Youtube channel "Boatworks today" has a number of videos on using this paint which were quite helpful.

These paints, activators, and solvents are very volatile, smelly, and bad to inhale in any quantity.  A full respirator with fresh filter cartridges is a must.

The process started with masking the stripe with ordinary blue tape and sanding with 320 grit sandpaper, then filling any dings and low spots or fiberglass cloth "print through" with a fairing compound and resanding (I used Total Boat for this) until it is VERY smooth.  Because Alexseal is a high gloss finish, it will show up any surface irregularities, so don't skimp on this part.

Next step involved re-masking with (expensive!) 3M/Scotch 218 Fine Line tape and then applying three coats of Alexseal primer with light sanding between each coat. After the last coat, increase to 800 grit.  I used a 4" roller per Andy's recommendation.  The fine-line tape is needed to get a crisp paint edge because it is thin and the adhesive is solvent resistant.  I pulled up the tape right after the third coat of primer, and re-masked it when the primer was dry.  One 60 yard roll was enough to do the whole thing twice with a little left over.

The final step is applying the paint itself.  Be sure to follow the applications guide for mixing ratios, temperature, and relative humidity.  In addition, I used the new brush/roller additive which allows for rolling without tipping, a real simplification and timesaver!  As long as the subsequent coats are applied no longer than 8-16 hours apart, no sanding is required between coats because the paint is not fully cured and will chemically bond to the next layer.   Otherwise, you should let it set for at least 24 hrs and sand lightly with 800 grit to provide some "tooth" for mechanical bonding before recoating.

As you can imagine, this last step requires some careful timing in order to get three coats on without sanding.  Unfortunately, I got caught in a windstorm that sprang up during the final coat,  with wind gusts up to 50 kts. I thought my shrinkwrap cover was going to blow away!  Despite my having carefully vacuumed beforehand, this stirred up dust.  The final result is what I call a "five foot" job.  Looks great from five feet away, but if you rub your fingertips over the surface, you can feel the hundreds of dustspecks that became embedded in the paint. :(

The good news is that, unlike Awlgrip, Alexseal can be sanded, compounded, and buffed to repair this.  I suppose I will do it someday, but I was just out of time and had to move on.

Hope this helps you!

Ports & Hatches / Re: Another Ports Saga - More Photos
« on: July 25, 2021, 12:47:11 AM »
More Photos

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