Messages

1

Engine and Drive Train / Impeller Puller for MD11C

« on: July 09, 2015, 09:29:28 PM »

Hi Folks,

I wanted to inquire if any of you have used an impeller puller while working on the water pump of a Volvo Penta MD11C.

I am gearing up to replace the impeller. Have not decided if prying with two screwdrivers is the way I want to go.

It looks like there are two sizes generally available. I am not sure if the smaller size (Sea Dog 660040-1) is still too big to grip the body of the impeller.

Thanks for any info and experience the forum would like to share.

Regards,

Bill

2

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Mystery Fitting

« on: August 29, 2014, 09:26:55 AM »

Bob,

Thanks for the info.

The last engine mechanic installed the second white basket strainer downstream of the wye strainer. I wouldn't be surprised if he removed the screen from the wye strainer during that job. The photograph show what appears to be a homemade gasket (red) at the opening, along with some caulking/sealant. 

Access to the basket on the wye strainer could be better. The photo shows the space constraints. I have tentative plans to remove the wye strainer and replace it with a larger Groco basket strainer, positioned so the basket could be lifted straight up and out.

Regards,

Bill

3

Engine and Drive Train / Mystery Fitting

« on: August 27, 2014, 11:20:05 PM »

Hi Folks,

I had an opportunity to spend some quality time in the bilge this past weekend. Attached is a photograph of a fitting on My Cyn that has me stumped. I am referring to the component held don by the metal strap, fastened with the two Phillips head screws. . It is part of the piping system that runs between the sea valve and the water pump on the VP MD11C.  I am trying to figure out its purpose. It may be a y-type strainer. Interested if anyone has any more or better information.

Cheers!

Bill 

4

Engine and Drive Train / Raw Water Strainer

« on: August 13, 2014, 11:30:35 PM »

Hi Folks,

I am interested in upgrading the raw water strainer for the cooling system on the MD11C for My Cyn. I am planning to haul out in September and am trying to get some plans in place.

As we all know, space is at a premium. If any P323 owners have installed or upgraded to a larger strainer, I would love to hear a description or see photos of the installation and most importantly hear any lessons learned. Thanks in advance to Richard R for his excellent photos and detailed input!

Regards,

Bill     

   

5

Steering System, Hull Structure / Re: Original line drawings

« on: March 30, 2014, 02:28:27 PM »

In July 2012 I I was trying to find the original production drawings.

I corresponded briefly with a gentleman named Scott Bryant who was with Pearson Marine Group:

Hi Bill - Unfortunately we don’t have any of that information anymore.
Everett Pearson sold the brand back in the 70's and that was the last time we ever had any of the technical information.  Since then the molds and IP exchanged hands a couple of times until it went out of business in the 80's.
We acquired the name only about 10 years ago.  Your best bet is to track down other owners through the internet.

Best,

Scott

From there I contact Jerry Powlass with the magazine "Good Old Boat":

Hi Bill

Good luck there.  We don't have any inside knowledge.  You might try our Associations page on our web site.  There are a lot of contacts there.

I ended my search there due to other event however those old drawings would be priceless to a P323 owner.

Regards,

Bill
 

6

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: Tiny Tach

« on: March 12, 2014, 12:03:12 AM »

Hi Folks,

I recently finished replacing the tachometer on My Cyn with a Tiny Tach. Thanks to Walt for his help and expertise!

Check out the write up in the Projects & Tips section under "Electrical and Marine Electronics" heading.

Regards,

Bill

7

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Tiny Tach

« on: December 08, 2013, 07:25:17 PM »

Hi Folks,

I am interested if anyone has installed a Tiny Tach on their boats.  I am considering doing this on My Cyn, as the dial tachometer gave up the ghost.

I am looking for as much info as possible prior to spending the money on a new instrument. Details on installing on a 2-cylinder MD11C would be great.

Happy holidays!

Bill 

8

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Checkin Oil on MD11-C

« on: November 27, 2013, 08:48:56 AM »

I agree it is a tight squeeze from starboard locker, but that's how I do it. I have to take my wrist watch off first just to fit my arm in, and I take my wedding ring off for safe keeping. Consider turning the air intakes slightly to gain every fraction of an inch you can. As I remove the dipstick, I end up turning it like a baton on my hand to get it out.

I also have a small work light with a spring clip that l strategically position to provide light.

Regards,

Bill

9

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Engine Zinc?

« on: November 27, 2013, 08:41:28 AM »

The previous owner of My Cyn had a fitting installed that facilitates fresh water flushing of the engine cooling passages. I flush for about 10 minutes prior to shutting engine down.

Regards,

Bill 

10

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Packing Size for Stuffing Box

« on: September 08, 2013, 01:31:33 AM »

Hi Guys,

Wanted to refresh this topic. I took the opportunity today to dig out the 1/4" GoreTex GFO packing I installed last October and replace it with (3) rings of 3/16" GoreTex GFO. I did it with the boat in the water. A bit of bicycle inner tube and a zip tie worked wonders to stem the tide....The bright side was no apparent damage to the shaft from running hot due to excessive friction over the last 11 months. The 1//4" packing I took out looked great. I'll plan on sticking with this brand until experience shows me otherwise. (3) rings of 3/16" provided me with lots of thread engagement on the shaft log, as opposed to a few threads with the 1/4". 

As a side note: I found that a .22 caliber bore brush with brass bristles worked great for cleaning the threads on the nuts  prior to installing the new packing.

Regards,

Bill   

11

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Aluminum Fuel Tank

« on: May 29, 2013, 09:31:51 PM »

Hi Guys,

Here is the contact information for the company that fabricated the fuel tanks:

Daniela Fiori Jones
Florida Marine Tanks, Inc
120 Peter Gill Rd
Henderson, NC 27536
305-620-9030 x330
252-438-5062 (fax)
dfiori@fmtanks.com

Daniela was nice enough to provide me with a copy of the fabrication print PS-22. She asked me not to post the drawing on-line, so you will have to contact here directly. She may be able to shed some light.

Regards,

Bill 

12

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Tachometer Quit

« on: April 21, 2013, 10:21:25 PM »

Hi Guys!

I spent some quality time with the tachometer this weekend. The wiring between the sending unit and the gauge in the cockpit was in good shape and showed to be continuous when checked with a multimeter.

The sending unit checked out good:  it sent out a consistent ~0.6 volt AC signal at idle, and voltage increased as I added throttle. Good news, as a replacement is $$$.

A quick check at a few local ship-chandleries told me that the particular gauge was no longer available.

Interested if anyone has replaced the tach guage on their Pearson 323.

Best,

Bill

13

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Packing Size for Stuffing Box

« on: February 17, 2013, 04:01:24 PM »

Thanks for the feedback. The stuffing box is running cool after a bit of adjustment. At the next haul-out, I plan on using 3/16".

Regards,

Bill

14

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Cold Start Button on Volvo MD11-C

« on: February 17, 2013, 03:56:06 PM »

Hi Folks,

After a lot of on-line searching, and some experimentation this past weekend, here is what I learned about the cold-start button on the Volvo Penta MD11C.

The use of the cold-start button is discussed in step 5 on page 5, as well as on page 9 of the instruction book, Publication 3167. The diagram on page 31 shows the button as item 5.
A better view of the button is in the workshop manual for the MD11C, D, MD17C, and D in the top-most photograph on page 33. The spring loaded cold-start button is shown adjacent to item #3 in the photograph.

The key to having the cold start button stay down (engaged) is the position of the throttle.

To engage the cold-start button, while at the helm, advance the throttle to approximately 10% or 20% of full. Go below and press the button down. The button should now stay in the down position. If the button doesn’t stay down, try a little more throttle.

Back at the helm, crank the engine, and you should find, as I did on this cold day, that the engine starts much more quickly. Move the throttle back down to idle, and the button will pop back out.

From what I read, engaging the cold start button allows the control rod inside the fuel injection pump to travel farther, allowing more fuel to be delivered, which facilitates starting. If anyone can elaborate on the internal workings of the fuel injection pump as it relates to the cold-start button, I would appreciate it.

All the best!

Bill

15

Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Fastest way to give old paint a new shine?

« on: January 19, 2013, 08:09:19 AM »

Hi Chet,

See the Practical Sailor Blog posting "A Practical Look at Waxing and Polishing Your Boat" dated April 19, 2011.

Regards,

Bill