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Messages - m_boone

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Ports & Hatches / Re: Another Ports Saga
« on: June 19, 2021, 10:35:57 AM »
The only thing that I can think of, and I'm sure you've thought of it, is to put the gasket (glazing) in the bezel first and then slide (?) the glass in the bezel/gasket half, then try to put the other bezel half on. Probably not a useful suggestion but your experience with this project has struck a nerve.

Each time I tackle an issue it seems pretty straight forward and my intention is to finish that project and then move on to another. This has not been my experience. : )

My original to-do list (partial) from 2019:
1. "Fix leaks" (haha) - Started with the hatches but in doing that noticed about 20% of the headliner was rotted
2. "Replace rotted teak and holly cabin sole pieces (v-birth and pc behind mast)" - almost done with that after a year
4. "Address the undersides" - Bead blast, barrier and finish reveled a questionable depth transducer bed - add that to the list along with the other Datamarine electronics
5. "Address rigging, mast, mast electrical (mast step is good)" - My thought: "I wont have to do a thing, my rigging guy will do everything." Add chain plates - since I have to re-bed those might as well re-bed other topside hardware. The area where the mast comes through the deck has cracks in gel coat and should be repaired before re-steppping...

I had to get that off my chest. : ) Anyway, Blue Sky is still on the hard this year. Hope to launch her next month. Despite this, I love working on her and seeing the fruit of my (and others) labor. 

Beauty! Nice test set up too.

General Discussion / Re: Lady K Sailing Pearson YouTube Video
« on: December 02, 2020, 06:52:53 AM »
Thanks for sharing that. Lots of nice Pearson history that I was not aware of.

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Teakwood coachroof grab rails.
« on: November 11, 2020, 11:08:31 AM »
Here's a picture with the headliner removed on Blue Sky. Looks like the grab rail fasteners are under the interior liner which go up the sides and partially onto the overhead. I see why you want to tackle this from above.

I'm looking forward to hearing yours and other's suggestions. I think that expansion screws or anchors glued in might be strong enough for a firm hold.

P36 / Re: P36 Video
« on: October 15, 2020, 10:23:32 PM »
Wow, great video! Thanks for sharing.

Sounds fun and what a great memory to take away from this summer!


Hi Doug,

Welcome aboard! Here's a great article about three Vanguards coming in 1,2 and 3 at the Good Old Boat Regatta on the Chesapeake.

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Teakwood coachroof grab rails.
« on: October 04, 2020, 06:27:01 PM »
Here's a link to a supplier of oval stainless tubing:

Not sure how you would bend them to contour though. There is a little shop in Riverside, NJ that does centerless grinding and other tube work. PM me if you want their contact info.

Here's an image of an IP grab rail. Those would be purddy!

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Deck fill O-rings
« on: October 04, 2020, 05:57:41 PM »
I looked at the Pearson 323 parts list but no luck there. The next time I'm at the marina I'll measure them though.

Interior Structures / Re: P323 Dinette Table Clamping Bracket
« on: September 20, 2020, 06:56:48 PM »
I used to have a commercial photo studio and we used laminate instead of the rolls of paper one sees in some studios for product photography backgrounds (sweeps). The paper was always a problem with ripples, stains and creases.

The laminate lasted forever.

So I have a lifetime supply of 4X8 sheets I've almost gone through with shop projects.

Yes I laminated it with old-school contact cement to the old thin plywood panels that previously had been vinyl wrapped. Using a router to trim the edges isn't difficult with the special cutter with the ball bearing guide.

If I didn't have the material in stock I'd buy the thinner material available for the sides of cabinetry instead of the heavier counter-top version. Every ounce above the keel matters!

I'd also likely skip the plywood and just use the lightweight laminate alone. Be careful it will cut you like a chainsaw!

You'll find some of the wood screws will have lost their grip so a wooden match stick or rolled up sliver of WaWa bag will make them grip again.

ALMA's antenna cable is the thicker version (RG213?) and it goes down the mast and exits through a hole in the side of the mast along with the spreader, bow and masthead light wiring. It ends 2 feet later under the mast wiring terminal strip into a junction barrel connector to the the radio side of the cable. It isn't in the coachroof interior at all. Our FM radio antenna is a expensive but close-out purchased antenna that is inside tape that is stuck under the side deck right forward of the Nav Station.

PS- Since you're near me in Philly I can install that Heli Coil for you. I'm in Cherry Hill.

PPS- My table's pole has a hole drilled below where the table's bracket ends and there is a bolt that acts as a safety stop should the table try to fall. The bolt is the same as a bolt used to hold a dodger frame to its foot bracket. You can see the silver bolthead just under the casting in the photo-

Thanks for all of those very good tips. I removed the original headliner panels along with the table assembly. The panels near the hatch were all rotted. In fact, one panel just crumbled into two pieces and I can't use it as a pattern for replacement. I haven't decided on what I will replace the panels with but I am leaning towards trying to keep it as original as possible. 

The antenna coax on Blue Sky comes out through a hole high in the mast, near the coachroof, and then goes to a junction box that is screwed to the bulkhead. From there, the FM coax is sort of draped over the galley door towoard the port side radio. I like the look of yours better - much better.

I'm right up the road from Cherry Hill in Moorestown - small world. Thanks for your offer to heli-coil that casting. I'll PM you soon.

Interior Structures / Re: P323 Dinette Table Clamping Bracket
« on: September 17, 2020, 09:26:13 PM »
"...They do strip though- often from ham-hammered 'technicians' in a hurry".

Haha! I had to look up "ham-hammered"

"The fix is straightforward.

First cut-up some Stella beer cans to make some shim material".
I like the idea of a couple of Stella's over gaffing tape. : )

Then have someone with the tools and experience install a Heli-coil into the damaged casting and have a suitable handle made from Stainless Steel rod (or shoulder bolt with a nut) with a bend for grip made as originally installed. You will want a stainless steel washer on the handle to prevent galling of the casting where the steel bottoms.
This, I agree, is the proper way to fix your Pearson saloon table. As well as adding the release pin that Selene has. One could put a whole case of Molson's on it then.

This was one of the very first fixes on ALMA 25 years ago and it has worked flawlessly since.

I read an article the other day that said "Bad boats don't grow old" and it made me think of Blue Sky and all the great Pearson boats still sailing today. Cheers!
This handle also serves to hang a jacket or other temporary need when it points up after a short break-in period. Once broken-in, stop tightening when the handle points up. It should last a long time at that position.

Nice cabintop! Did you laminate the Formica to wood panels or are they single sheets of Formica? Also, how did you hide Alma's antenna cable? Very tidy.

Interior Structures / Re: P323 Dinette Table Clamping Bracket
« on: September 14, 2020, 05:51:24 PM »

3) Having the table hard-tied to the post is not desireable because repeated pulling and falling into it transmits all the torque to the pole, which causes the overhead pole screws to loosen and back out.  I think I'd rather have it slip on a good hit.

Good point! It could also cause more of an injury if someone fell into it and it didn't give way.

Interior Structures / Re: P323 Dinette Table Clamping Bracket
« on: September 14, 2020, 05:43:41 PM »
I've got to tighten mine up. I'll try that quick release bicycle axle trick.

If your bolt and threads are okay so that you can fully clamp it down and the table is still loose, then I don't think changing to a quick release clamp is going to help you. You may need to do what I did and take the table out and shim the plastic sleeve so that it grabs more when tightened.

Also, I used a bicycle seat clamp not an axle clamp.

Interior Structures / Re: P323 Dinette Table Clamping Bracket
« on: September 13, 2020, 05:21:42 PM »
Is it tight enough to keep the table from spinning?

Hi T_schlueter,

Good question. I wanted to find out the answer so I recruited my daughter to help. The answer depends, of course, on how much force you apply to the table's edge but I was happy to find out it does remain in place with an unmeasured but reasonable amount of force. You have to push pretty hard to get it to turn. If someone fell into it, however, I have no doubt it would turn. Here is a picture of it at an angle supporting the table's weight. I could spin the pole 360 degrees and the table would stay in that position relative to the pole.

Here's a picture with maybe 25lbs on it and it is snug in place. It's hard to see but the beaker is full of water.

Interior Structures / Re: P323 Dinette Table Clamping Bracket
« on: September 11, 2020, 05:26:20 PM »
Selene has both quick release pin and clamp.
I really like your bike clamp idea!
When I am next on Selene I'll take a pic. the quick release pin works well, taking most of the weight and holding the table in position. The clamp is purely to stop the residual movement. With no pin, I can easily see how the clamp threads would get stripped.
Nice job....

Thanks Selene. Your description clears up a lot confusion on my part. I have yet to put a lot of weight on the table to see if it holds so I may have to figure out more of a solution. The release pin sounds like Pearson's solution to the earlier design.

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