Messages

286

Cruising / Re: 323 is part of an adventure story in BoatUs magazine June/July 2014 .

« on: May 24, 2014, 06:25:05 PM »

Rutherford is one of my heroes. I never knew he had such a rough childhood. I sent him a little donation when he was sailing to the northwest passage for CRAB.
Now he's collecting pollution samples in the oceans. He's a great sailor!

287

General Discussion / We splash ALMA Saturday!

« on: May 22, 2014, 10:31:39 AM »

I don't know about YOU but WE have had a long WINTER!

How lucky are we to have another sailing season on the horizon?

This weekend let's remember the brave souls who serve our country and also the folks who suffered with the lousy storms we saw this year.

Have a safe and FUN weekend sailors.

ALMA

288

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Preventer? Vang? Anyone know what this is?

« on: May 22, 2014, 10:23:22 AM »

That strap is a vang, preventer and boom brake all in one. It does none of those tasks perfectly. A preventer prevents an accidental jibe which can clock someone on the head and also damage the rig. Your strap is too far forward on the boom to be an effective preventer and that is why it parted. Don't bet anyone's skull on that arrangement.

The Gaurhaler solid vang is a great solution to control the main, BUT a line rigged from the boom end to the bow is the only safe preventer.
I often set up a small "handy-billy" block and tackle, like a small mainsheet setup that used to be my old vang, back at the mainsheet bail on the boom. It is attached to a ring on a car on the jib sheet track. I resist the temptation to attach it to the stantion base... It keeps the boom secured when wind is light and flukey and folks are walking about the deck.

The "handy billy" is not a proper preventer.  When the wind pipes up I rig a proper preventer line or harden-up so there is no chance of an accidental jibe.

A solid vang will flatten the main when close hauled, support the boom when dropping the mainsail, and keep the sail from chafing on the aft lower shrouds when running. Although the traveler can help flatten the main- a vang flattens the main independent of the mainsheet. You will find many situations where this is seaworthy and faster.

You will have to remove and re-install the midships hatch turned 180 degrees facing aft to open the hatch with a solid vang installed. You will like an aft facing midships hatch because it is usable when spray would be coming into a forward facing hatch. At rest both hatches open provide cross flow ventilation.

289

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Traveller

« on: May 14, 2014, 10:09:06 AM »

I agree with leaving stock (but improved) traveler and boom hardware as designed. What about the old traveler? We know the loads on mid sheeted booms are much higher than ours with the associated safety concerns. Would new mid-boom hardware foul the dodger?

I believe I've seen mid-boom retrofits on a 323. We're lucky that our coachroof is strong to begin with and the underside accessible for the reinforcement that would be necessary. What is the up-side of concentrating and transferring the sheeting loads to the coachroof? I see myself tripping over a recently added traveler rail inches above the coachroof where I used to glide back into the cockpit. That's a nasty face-plant four feet below...

I don't mind the fact that my ALMA doesn't have any lines led to the cockpit. I've seen problems with lines running through multiple turning blocks, "organizers" and stoppers when sailing on other yachts. I prefer simplicity and knowing what a line does before I adjust it. A line coming from the masthead to the mainsail halyard winch on the mast is pretty difficult to mistaken for a mainsheet or the outhaul. Not-so when a spagetti of lines terminate on the coachroof and a quick adjustment is necessary... Sure YOU may know what is what- but if a mate needs to act quickly it could result in the WRONG line loosened at just the worst moment.

All those turning blocks and "organizers" create friction that increases wear on the new hardware and the 40 year old hardware that now needs to double it's effort to accommodate improvements.

We are free to modify and change Bill Shaw's well thought out design at will.

The multitude of filled fastener holes where the now obsolete "space-age" hardware added by enthusiastic owners was removed from some 323's is a testament to "KISS".

Keep it Simple Sammy!

290

Steering System, Hull Structure / Re: Cradle

« on: May 07, 2014, 07:31:23 PM »

If I had a proper cradle I could Winter-store ALMA at Utch's Marina on the Delaware Bay Canal In Cape May.
Utch's will not allow a boat supported simply on "poppet" stands. The winds sometimes howl through funneled by a bridge adjacent to Utch's and after a few boats have fallen over they made this rule.

ALMA had another boat, a PEARSON 28, fall into her at Riverside Marina in NJ!

A yard hand was doing something to "Barefootin'" and she fell right against ALMA. My late friend and captain of Barefootin' was there when it happened. There was no damage! Thanks Bill Shaw!

One time I asked the yard to move the 6X6 dunnage under ALMA's keel so I could dab the last of the bottom paint.

Again the yard hand surprised me- He used the two rear poppet stands as jacks and lifted ALMA's stern right up 'till the logs under the keel were loose enough to move! I certainly wouldn't suggest this but again it is a tribute to the 323's strong hull (especially at the waterline where the hull is reinforced on the inside.

If I were to design a steel cradle I would be sure to make it so it could be bolted together and broken down for transport in a pick-up truck. I've painted my self into a corner many times and I wouldn't want to have to leave an expensive custom cradle behind...

When poppet stands were in short supply right before Super Storm Sandy I made this jury-rig to keep ALMA from falling over. The yard off Great Bay used only 5 stands and I felt ALMA needed seven. There were no more stands available.

Do you know how Super Storm Sandy got her name?

The barometric pressure and sustained windspeed wasn't enough to grant the insurance companies their "Hurricane Deductables" so Sandy became a "Named Storm"!

The "Named Storm" deductible is a percentage of the policy's value NOT the $500 or whatever normal deductible-

Most folks in NJ still haven't been compensated for Sandy damage...

291

Deck Mounted Hardware / Garhauer Rigid Vang

« on: May 04, 2014, 10:39:22 AM »

You will LOVE the Garhauler rigid vang. Ours is 8-9 years old and still like new.

You'll need to reverse the midships hatch to open towards the stern to accommodate the vang.

The Garhauler is fantastic for sail control upwind and also to keep the sail off the shrouds when running.

I mounted the mast bracket using only six of the eight holes so I could lower the bracket "a hole" for more leverage once I sorted out my mast boot mess.

When I redid my mast chock & boot flush with the partners flange I tried to "move down" a hole and found Garhauler didn't make the bracket holes symmetrical...

They offered to send me a new bracket- but of course the problem was the holes I already drilled in the mast (years ago) using their mast bracket as a drill-guide!

The difference was small enough that an hour or so with a tiny file and I was able to "worry" the holes towards the existing mast holes without removing much material from the bracket. The fastener's heads cover the tiny elongation and it is certainly secure.

If you want to mount the bracket "up a hole" to clear a mast boot and have the option of lowering it in the future when you use "Spartite" or other means of a flush mast boot and better leverage with the vang-

Make sure the bracket's holes will line up when you lower the bracket. I'm betting Garhauler changed the CAD drawing and these holes are perfectly symmetrical now.

292

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Pearson Logo on cabin house

« on: May 04, 2014, 10:23:12 AM »

Fantastic! Thanks. I would LOVE this on a Tee Shirt, Bed Spread, Peanut Butter Sandwich!

When we first got ALMA 15 years ago I sent the chrome plated plastic name plate that is mounted on the bridge deck up to a foundry in ME.

For what I thought was reasonable cost at the time they cast a bronze one for me. It is the tinniest bit smaller because castings shrink when they cool but after filing the plate's mounting holes slightly oblong it fits the original spot perfectly in the original holes. It is a welcome little custom hello when I come aboard.

293

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: Compass Lights

« on: May 04, 2014, 10:14:31 AM »

I really like that you have DUAL bulbs (lamps) in that setup. That way if one fails offshore you can still see compass until you replace burned lamp.

If you're handy with a solder iron you can replace these yourself. Be sure to completely clean that brass lamp holder.

Now the really good news!

I have a pair of these lamps ANCOR # 382 Corrosion Resistant Mini Lamp!

Send me an address and I'll post them to you.

Gene

PS new studies show RED isn't necessary to protect Night Vision. Just DIM lighting is fine.

294

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Traveller

« on: April 27, 2014, 08:21:51 PM »

That is sweet! My original mainsheet broke at the joint where the mainsheet and cam attach to the traveler car. It happened on a calm day while motoring. I saw the boom swing to port and WT...

Then I realized the mainsheet hardware had parted! The day before we were on a spirited sail in the ocean and it seemed fine! That's good Karma for sure.

The attachment point is a stainless steel pin about the size of an 8-32 screw! It's spooky.

I really like that Garhauler setup. They make nice gear and their customer service is fantastic.

295

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: iPAD

« on: March 19, 2014, 11:31:32 AM »

No current- good sail trim and no unused items weighing us down. We also don't have the bow sprit, chain rode, AC, dinghy on davits, bow water tank, plywood sole... ALMA sits high on her lines and reaches like a scalded dog. When you can stroll up on a Ericson 35 with a deep keel and Max Prop you're doing pretty well!

I'm not one to cut my tooth brush in half to save weight but if we haven't used something in a few months it goes in the dock box or back home.

Of course there are plenty of times we ghost along at 4.5 knots, I wouldn't make a photo of that GPS reading.

296

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: IceBox Drainage

« on: March 17, 2014, 09:09:33 PM »

Me too. Top valve between tank selector valves switches between electric water pressure pump and foot pump.

297

Engine and Drive Train / Atomic Four, Ethanol, and Copper Fuel lines

« on: March 04, 2014, 12:25:42 PM »

ALMA has pretty flare fitting copper lines from the Monel fuel tank to the original AC Fuel Filter.

E15 is apparently NOT compatible with copper in the fuel system.

Has anyone heard of a need to change-out these well crafted and previously permanent fuel lines?

Thanks

298

Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Blisters 2 part question

« on: March 03, 2014, 06:30:27 PM »

It's easy to get hyper-worried about a few blisters. The truth is they are mostly harmless. If you have a dozen or so it's no big deal. You must look for them immediately after the boat comes up in the slings as they have a sneaky way of disappearing as the seawater dries from the bottom.

It's a good idea to pop them now and rinse them really well with fresh water. Then leave them alone until a week before you launch. That gives them a chance to really dry out. Luckily Bill Shaw had experienced workers and our boats were rolled to death during construction and have had a history of very few bad bottoms.

Any West System permutation will work better than necessary. West is a premium product and perfect for a beginner. When you get more experience you will enjoy the savings of Maas or other resins that perform just as well.

Remember to really rinse the blisters with plain water and wear goggles when popping them. They may be filled with water soluble acids that could harm your eyes.

It's true this epoxy/filler combo will be "difficult" to sand. That's where a "fairing board" is so important to prevent removing good softer gelcoat from around your new and harder than gelcoat repairs. It doesn't have to be fancy- a sheet of 320 sandpaper stapled (to the EDGES) of a 36" long 1X6 will insure your sandpaper will ride only on the surface and not gouge your hull. This is the difference between "Fair" and "Smooth". Fair follows the boats contour- Smooth is just shiny but wavy. A long fairing board will insure you're "fair". Then "smooth"is easy. You only need to attach one sheet to the middle of the board for a blister.

This is an easy job. Once you are sure you have no more blisters finish with Interlux Inter-protect barrier coat. It's pricy but has protected ALMA for 12 years. Not a single ZIT!

Good Luck!

G

299

Deck Mounted Hardware / Re: Anchor Windlass Project- While you're in there

« on: January 23, 2014, 04:17:24 PM »

Take a look at this!

What's wrong with this install?

Too funny! Who can see Pearson's folly?

300

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: iPAD

« on: January 19, 2014, 11:34:52 AM »

Thank you!

Yes old school...  I just delivered a Pacific Seacraft 37 from Charleston SC to Ft. Lauderdale last week. Brutal!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aiq7jgPZczU

The quite pricy navigation suite was out! Raytheon.

We used a new set of paper charts and an old hand held Garmin GPS.

We also had an iPod and it worked well but did NOT show lat/long!!!!

I have a little Garmin at my nav station and I prefer NO screens at the helm. I sit in front of a screen all day working on my photos at work.
I don't need to watch sailing on TV. Like YOU I want to feel, smell, and taste the sailing!