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Messages - nickzchef

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16
Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Propane tank(s) vented hoses
« on: February 24, 2012, 02:55:07 PM »
Okay, I was forced to remove my propane lockers with the 31 year sealant, a daunting thought at first >:(.  Logic told me to get a Multi tool with the thin scoop like attachment, sort of an L shaped thin blade, 3/4" wide or less I think.  I fitted this at the topside base of the locker from the cockpit and it dug inside and cut through the 31 year old sealant (after I removed the 5 or 6 screws first). After disconnecting everything it was still very hard to push the locker up and out. Very tough awkward angle!  I rigged a small capacity bottle jack underneath and proceeded to jack it up and out.  Be careful here, go slow and make sure enough sealant has been sliced through!  While I was in there I also replaced my nylon through hull for my bilge pump hose. It was looking old and beat, and ready to fail. Success.

I replaced most of my copper line (2 feet inside length) with marine grade water hoses and clamped them, and kept the same connections for the vent bottom and exit through hull. Should not burst anymore!

17
Engine and Drive Train / Re: Reverse gear/transmission
« on: February 17, 2012, 12:46:48 PM »
Okay then, I had this repaired/rebuilt by Nopper Transmission repair in Fairhaven, MA
$600, I delivered to them
Included opening, inspection, replacing 2-3 seals (2 shot), replaced U-joints, sand blast, acid cleaning, 2 coats prime and 2 coats Volvo green paint. Was told these Tranny's are excellent for their simplicity and reliability, etc. Looks new now (was a rust bucket)

18
Engine and Drive Train / Re: Cutlass bearing
« on: February 11, 2012, 04:21:34 PM »
I just did one today.  If its not that old you may be able to press it out (after you remove the shaft, and the 2 inset screws) by making a 3/4" threaded bolt press, about 15" long. There are images online.  If you must cut use a very sharp hacksaw and cut just right below your inset screw holes.  Once cut, you can screw in two bolts through these inset holes and push the bearing inward to collapse by ratcheting on it, perhaps avoiding pounding on the unit and damaging your strut. If you must pound use something softer than the strut metal, really hard maple, etc.

I iced my bearing and then measured with a micro meter, t'was exactly the same size as when I started. I even sprayed Co2 (chewing gum remover) to further chill it. Still no shrinkage, don't waste your time.  You cannot get these extremely cold anyway, as they can become brittle and shatter if not aligned properly when pressing in (use the same press you made). I used a small bar of soap and coated the bearing and the outside wall. Slipped right in with my overly strong press.  Piece of cake.

19
Interior Structures / Re: Floor
« on: February 11, 2012, 03:58:03 PM »
I have 31 year old teak and holly, and I will replace this year!

20
Engine and Drive Train / Re: Engine overheating?
« on: November 24, 2011, 09:10:46 AM »
This happened to me once.  It was a combination of a bad Thermostat, and a clogged pin hole on the exhaust vented loop, usually located in the port sail locker forward bulkhead, which restricted water flow a bit.  Good luck!

21
Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: Starting battery
« on: November 19, 2011, 06:54:40 PM »
I added a starting battery (now have three batteries) directly to the left of the two house batteries, used pressure treated wood to make a frame and liquid nails to secure. Had to cut/miter the pressure treated to match the curve of the hull.  Then added another battery switch directly below the other one. 18 years no problems

22
Engine and Drive Train / Re: Transmission Cable
« on: November 18, 2011, 03:15:56 PM »
I had the same problem with my choke cable, then found out any motor repair shop (that repairs riding mowers or small tractors for example) have many options with cables and I found a suitable replacement. That was 13 years ago, and it still works.

But there are many Industrial-like Marine stores, in a city like New Bedford for example, that can give you what you need.  Not the West Marine variety store, but a place where commercial fishing vessels buy from, and much cheaper as well. I saved like $4 a foot when replacing all my black, thick deck and scupper hoses.  Find a store and mail your cable to have them match up.

Hope this helps

23
Plumbing and Galley Systems / Propane tank(s) vented hoses
« on: November 18, 2011, 02:20:07 PM »
Just wondering if anyone has the same problem as I?  I have copper tubing lines that lead out to the stern on both propane tank lockers. The problem I have is the connection on the lower tank fitting is slightly lower than the stern exit connection. Thus, water collects in the copper tube, and has the tendency to freeze/burst during the winter on several occasions. And of course water and snow is always melting into the locker.  I keep these locker openings covered with plywood in the cockpit as much as possible so this helps a bit.

If your unaware of the burst line, and then motoring at 1/2 speed or more, water just gets sucked in from the Bay as the stern dips low.

So my repair has always been the two part epoxy stick, but its not always reliable.  So, just wondering if anyone else has come up against this and how they have handled it.



Thanks

24
Engine and Drive Train / Reverse gear/transmission
« on: November 18, 2011, 10:34:19 AM »
I have to replace my transmission seals as I am leaking transmission oil. So all will be disconnected (shaft, reverse gear, etc). Does anyone have any experience with this, and could you please pass on your recommendations and insight!

Thanks

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