Messages

226

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Pin Sizes for rigging at masthead

« on: September 26, 2012, 03:32:27 PM »

The uppers and lowers are pinned to a tang. Clevis size is 7/16
Head and back stay are double pinned ( two clevis pins per stay) to a toggle. Clevis size 1/2
Your setup makes sense.
Good Luck

227

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Pin Sizes for rigging at masthead

« on: September 21, 2012, 09:15:09 AM »

Pulling  the mast Sept 26th will let you know if no one else responds.
I pull the mast every year, and I am under the impression the clevis pin are 1/2"

228

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Stainless Steel Chainplates (failed 50 miles offshore)

« on: August 24, 2012, 09:07:59 AM »

Who made the replacement plates?

229

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Manufacturer of Seacocks for P323

« on: July 02, 2012, 09:22:51 AM »

they are.  If you are looking for parts try Continental Marine Quincy MA

230

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Mast Pumping

« on: June 13, 2012, 11:47:55 AM »

I had it, the mast was pumping in the midsection.
My conclusion was that the mast was under too much compression. could be wrong about the cause.
I fix the problem and have never had the pumping since.
Start off by removing the boom
Loosen uppers, lowers and backstay
position the mast in the center of the mast partner. if you have the mast collar install it
secure the mast in the mast partner with pine wedges, I use about 8 on them
tighten both lowers on each side a little then switch sides. Tighten to Loos setting listed below
open hatch in main salon and eye up the mast track for any bends
Tighten uppers a little on one side then the other. Ditto on the settings
If you tighten one side too much, a bend at the top is visible
tighten backstay. should see a nice bend aft
I have a roller furlng on headstay that can not be adjusted
I you have an adjustable headstay back it off so that the mast has a bend aft
BTW I had a friend that had a P323 he tightened the backstay so much he could not open the cockpit lockers
Go for a sail, adjust, then pin the turnbuckles
I yank my mast every season, and it never pumps even high winds

The Loos I have is the one that you attach to shrouds then pull a string loop to read the numbers. The cheapest model.
If you have my Loos. try 38.5 to 39 on lowers and I think 42 to 45 on uppers and backstay.
These numbers worked for me

Good Luck
BobG

231

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Wash down system

« on: June 11, 2012, 10:18:51 AM »

Do yourself a favor by not using salt water.  I installed a salt water wash down kit (sureflo) against the advise of Sureflo.
I plumbed the pump off of the head intake.
I installed the pump on the bulkhead in the head behind the swing out sink. The swing out sink has a void, where the pump can enter when the sink is in it's closed position.  Measure carefully. 
The pump can handle salt water, the problem is when the water drys you are left with an amazing amount if really fine salt crystals every where.  Really only good for washing the anchor and chain. What a pain in the neck.
One season was enough, it's now plumbed to the starboard fresh water tank
For easy of use I installed a gate valve in the anchor locker and attached a 50ft curly hose.
Can wash down any part of the boat.  When we are cruising the cockpit gets a wash down every night.
On hot days we use the mist setting on the nozzle to cool down
Just be careful about the water usage, and you'll be fine
Good Luck

232

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Tension on the upper and lower stays

« on: May 18, 2012, 09:20:06 AM »

Using the Loos gauge
lowers 39
uppers 45

233

Exterior Finish and Fiberglass / Re: Peeling gel coat on rudder

« on: December 14, 2011, 01:59:28 PM »

The P323 did not have gelcoat on rudder.  the skeg below the gudgeon is faring

234

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Engine overheating?

« on: December 07, 2011, 02:12:11 PM »

Most P323 w/ Volvo MD11c have raw water cooling. The block cooling ports were undersized
If all other possible causes prove negative, your looking at
an exhaust manifold, as well as a gasket kit.
Also remove the pet-cocks clean the ports, and reassemble
This should do the trick

235

Mast and Spar Issues / Re: Mast corrosion

« on: December 07, 2011, 01:59:03 PM »

How is the mast step attached to the keel? I see the four bolts/screws
Are these screwed through the glass into the lead keel?
I looks to me that my heads are rusted and will snap off.
Any problem removing the step?

Thanks

236

Interior Structures / Re: Floor

« on: August 29, 2011, 09:18:51 AM »

The teak and holly deck was an upgrade

237

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: OEM Cabin Light Bulb Replacements

« on: August 23, 2011, 09:10:23 AM »

I have burnt out about three over the years.
The bulb is a standard single contact bayonet bulb.
I have switched burnt outs to LED, the larger the LED cluster the more light.
Some LED are too white, so beware

238

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Cutlass bearing

« on: August 09, 2011, 09:59:25 AM »

Oops, I should have said
You will not be able to remove the bearing
         untill you break the contact with the STRUT

239

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Cutlass bearing

« on: August 09, 2011, 09:51:43 AM »

Done it twice, first time the bearing just wore out.  Two years later the rubber separated from the brass.
Not fun.
The previous post sums up the procedure, except, the P323 strut has a lip on the forward opening, negating the option of simply pressing out the bearing
Tips:  -mark the shaft coupling to ease re-alignment
        -Use a very sharp chisel to fold the brass onto itself. You will not be able to remove the bearing
         untill you break the contact with the shaft. Tap chisel gently with hammer to accomplish this.
        -grind down the lip on the strut, without the lip a jobber can replace the bearing in a flash without removing shaft
        -keep zincs as far forward as possible