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Messages - nickzchef

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Hello all, I hope I am in the right group for this inquiry.

In the next month or so I am hopeful that I can ship a mast with a roller furling and Shrouds from the St Augustine area to NB, MASS.  I will have it all tied down, secured and plastic wrapped for added security.

I am trying to have the Mast "Hitch a ride" with an existing truck heading north with other boat cargo. 

Does anyone have any contacts that I can call about this?.  I have heard that many Marine truck drivers do this to pick up a few extra bills, or more...

Would really appreciate your thoughts and contacts

Warmest Regards
Nick Zakharoff
Pearson 323
Rhode Island
401 486 3774

Hello, all is this discussion active?  Just tried to post and it disappeared when I hit post

401 486 3774

Looking for mast specs, total length, make (I think MetalMast) and best place to buy new in New Bedford Mass area or RI
and is there a great used mast for sale anywhere with Shrouds?

Engine and Drive Train / Re: P323 shaft struct
« on: May 15, 2012, 06:11:38 PM »
You should talk to the people at:
I believe they bought all the design rights to Pearson Yachts and have many original Pearson parts in stock. Perhaps they can suggest something on the Strut?

I think if you paid a marina for such design services they certainly have an obligation to deliver. I guess it depends on how far you want to push your claim.  I would speak with the owner.

Good luck

Engine and Drive Train / 60 PSI oil pressure reading?
« on: April 23, 2012, 04:15:14 PM »
I recently changed my VDO oil pressure gauge to another VDO oil gauge (0-80 psi, same as before) and used a sender that came with yet another VDO gauge that I sent it back because it had spade connectors instead of terminal connectors, but kept the sender.  I used to always get a reading of 40 psi on average, and now this new combination is giving me a reading of 60psi?  Any thoughts on this?

When I called the seller he said as long as both are paired to handle a 0-80psi gauge it should work?  The only difference this year was that I did a lot of engine work this year, engine main seal, all seals in tranny, reflushed the head surface, etc, etc

Any experience on this matter would be appreciated!

IntimaSea  319

Yes, I considered this...but its really convenient having the four fuses all lined up and the quick connect when you need it. I also considered a breaker switch, which would probably work just as well.  McDonnell Marine in Bloomfield CT does discount Volvo parts so I got it for $60 bucks. Most don't. He has a lot of MD11c Parts, even used. I'm sure it will last the next 20 years

As it turns out this is a Volvo part, about $66 bucks

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Cold Start Button on Volvo MD11-C
« on: April 10, 2012, 10:14:36 AM »
Yes, they are Compression levers. I was told 25 years ago to raise the levers for cold morning starts, and the MD11C starts almost instantly, without fail!

Here is the photo......

Hello all;

Directly behind my gauge panel on the wiring harness I have the above mentioned fuse block. It is in-line and I have four identical fuse replacements in case I short our.  I have not bought one for 15 years........any idea who has these now?  I am down to my last fuse, the others have long since burned out.

Many thanks

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Cold Start Button on Volvo MD11-C
« on: April 05, 2012, 02:03:42 PM »
Mine is a lever, actually there are two...facing towards the stern at the base of the head, inserted actually into the lower valve cover assembly. I have only ever used the rear one (the other is frozen).  I lift up for the colder start, and once started I pull the lever back down.

I hope this helps


Engine and Drive Train / Re: Starter
« on: February 25, 2012, 09:47:07 PM »
These can be rebuilt for about $115. I used Ace Armature In Providence, RI  Rebuild shops are everywhere. They will do with marine specs and components

Forewarned is forearmed. When I pulled my engine (1981 MD11c) out 2 months ago I discovered that the head surface passageways on the rear head, that interface with the manifold had a good amount of wear and vanishing metal surface, up to 1/8" inside in some areas.  Had to add welding to the head and had it resurfaced with a fine sharpening stone until all was very smooth. I also took this stone and ran it over the exhaust manifold and thermostat block and housing connection so all connection surfaces looked brand new!  In addition to the new manifold gaskets I also used (forgot the name) a red colored gasket sealant (in many areas can be used in place of a gasket, like the connection face of the engine and transmission, recommended by the Tranny shop)  Also good for filling in little dents and holes on you surface connections.

I anticipate being leak free this season.....

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Propane tank(s) vented hoses
« on: February 24, 2012, 02:55:07 PM »
Okay, I was forced to remove my propane lockers with the 31 year sealant, a daunting thought at first >:(.  Logic told me to get a Multi tool with the thin scoop like attachment, sort of an L shaped thin blade, 3/4" wide or less I think.  I fitted this at the topside base of the locker from the cockpit and it dug inside and cut through the 31 year old sealant (after I removed the 5 or 6 screws first). After disconnecting everything it was still very hard to push the locker up and out. Very tough awkward angle!  I rigged a small capacity bottle jack underneath and proceeded to jack it up and out.  Be careful here, go slow and make sure enough sealant has been sliced through!  While I was in there I also replaced my nylon through hull for my bilge pump hose. It was looking old and beat, and ready to fail. Success.

I replaced most of my copper line (2 feet inside length) with marine grade water hoses and clamped them, and kept the same connections for the vent bottom and exit through hull. Should not burst anymore!

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Reverse gear/transmission
« on: February 17, 2012, 12:46:48 PM »
Okay then, I had this repaired/rebuilt by Nopper Transmission repair in Fairhaven, MA
$600, I delivered to them
Included opening, inspection, replacing 2-3 seals (2 shot), replaced U-joints, sand blast, acid cleaning, 2 coats prime and 2 coats Volvo green paint. Was told these Tranny's are excellent for their simplicity and reliability, etc. Looks new now (was a rust bucket)

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Cutlass bearing
« on: February 11, 2012, 04:21:34 PM »
I just did one today.  If its not that old you may be able to press it out (after you remove the shaft, and the 2 inset screws) by making a 3/4" threaded bolt press, about 15" long. There are images online.  If you must cut use a very sharp hacksaw and cut just right below your inset screw holes.  Once cut, you can screw in two bolts through these inset holes and push the bearing inward to collapse by ratcheting on it, perhaps avoiding pounding on the unit and damaging your strut. If you must pound use something softer than the strut metal, really hard maple, etc.

I iced my bearing and then measured with a micro meter, t'was exactly the same size as when I started. I even sprayed Co2 (chewing gum remover) to further chill it. Still no shrinkage, don't waste your time.  You cannot get these extremely cold anyway, as they can become brittle and shatter if not aligned properly when pressing in (use the same press you made). I used a small bar of soap and coated the bearing and the outside wall. Slipped right in with my overly strong press.  Piece of cake.

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