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Messages - sgancarz

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For Sale and Wanted / Re: Parts for Pearson 36-2
« on: February 15, 2023, 02:22:13 PM »
Last Resort,

Thanks for the information on the engine control panel.  Been looking for one for some time now, as the corners are broke off on mine.

Steve

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New Member Introductions / Re: New member looking at a Pearson 36-2
« on: February 15, 2023, 02:03:11 PM »
Jay,

Welcome to the group.  I have had my 36-2 since 2018 and sail on Lake Michigan.  I went from a Paceship PY26 to the 36-2.  Was a big jump and took quite some time to get used to the extra 10 feet of length and 3 feet of beam while docking.  I absolutely love the 36-2, as does anyone that comes aboard.

I used to singlehand my PY26 quite a bit, as it was very easy to maneuver with the transom hung, tiller controlled rudder and all lines led aft.  However the rudder placement on the 36-2 is well aft and makes it quite maneuverable as well.  Additionally all of my lines are led aft as well.  The only issue I have with singlehanding the 36-2 is that all winches are forward of the helm, and to move forward, you have to step up on the seat to get around the wheel.  Autopilot is a must!

One thing I had to learn with the 36-2 is how to use spring lines when leaving and returning to the slip.  On my PY26, I had a continuous spring line from the bow to the stern that I could easily jump onto the dock and control both the bow and the stern.  Not going to happen with the 36-2.  At 15,000 lbs displacement, you are not going to be able to just grab a dock line and control the boat.

Overall I am very satisfied with the 36-2 and hope to do some singlehanded racing soon.  I have to get a new below deck autopilot though, as the wheel pilot is at it's upper limits with the 15,000 lb displacement and has problems steering the boat in any type of weather.  Does OK for calm motoring, but would not trust it while doing any sort of distance singlehanded.

I hope this helps. 

Good luck with your search.

Steve

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P36 / Pearson 36-2 Rubrail
« on: October 22, 2020, 03:37:16 PM »
Just wanted to let everyone know that D&R Marine has decided to no longer sell this rubrail.  However, Integrity Marine Corp. the original manufacturer has just completed a run of rubrail for the Mk2 or -2 boats.  Contact Mark Demers @ (508)505-4001.  Part number is R1073.

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Here are a couple more pics.

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I did this repair to my Paceship PY26 about ten years ago.  Was a long process, but to this date I have no rust or cracking of the keel joint.  Now I do sail on Lake Michigan, so no salt.  But I think it is encapsulated enough that even in salt water I don't think I would have a problem.

First I focused on the keel Joint.  I used a flexible sanding disk on my 7 1/4" grinder to sand down and dish out the area around the entire keel joint, making sure I got down to bare metal on the keel.  Next I took the 7 1/4" grinder with a 1/4" thick grinding disk and plunged in about a 1/2" all the way around the joint.  I then re-torqued all the keel bolts and filled the gap with 3M 5200.  I let this dry again for a little over a week, as the instructions say it takes 7 days to fully cure.

Next I ground everything off the keel down to bare metal and sanded off any excess 5200 around the keel joint. I then applied an off the shelf spray on rust converter.  I did several coats and let it dry for over a week.  I then applied two coats of West System resin as a barrier coat.  I used the hot coat method to apply the second coat, so that I did not have to worry about amen blush forming between coats.

Once the resin was cured I focused back on the keel Joint.  I applied several layers of glass mat and cloth in various widths to fill in the dished out area and reinforce the joint.  You want to start with the widest piece first and work your way up to the narrowest.

Once the keel joint was reinforced and had a chance to fully cure, I gave everything a light sanding and began the final fairing process using West System 410 Ultra Light fairing compound. After final fairing, I applied five coats of Inerlux Interprotect 2000 barrier coat and finally the bottom paint.

Here is a little tip on applying the fairing compound to save on material and sanding.  Apply your first few coats of fairing compound with a notched trowel.  You can pick up cheap plastic ones at your nearest hardware store.  This way when you are doing your initial shaping, you are only having to sand the ridges off.  Again, in between coats, make sure you are careful to remove all the amen blush prior to applying another coat.

Here are a few pictures of the process.  Hope this helps, and good luck

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