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Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: P323 Main Fuse
« Last post by Last Resort on February 14, 2024, 09:08:17 AM »
on my 1990 31-2, mine was the same "shot gun shell" looking fuse, but only a 40A.  When I found it  (a screw had come loose and was shorting out the connection to my panel), I quickly replaced it with a newer 40A 2 prong push in fuse, like we use everywhere now, but it was MUCH bigger in actual size from an auto fuse.  I just took the 2 wires of the existing holder and joined them with the new 2 prong spade holder (just hanging freely, no mounting at all) and just plugged the new fuse in.  It was a 10 minute job for me as the fuse is located under my aft cabin with my batteries. Maybe you can remove/cut the 2 red wires off and move them to a more workable area. If I was going to do mine today though, I'd use this fuse holder and mount it and not have to join any wires:

I have also switched over to LiP04 batteries and no issues.  Good Luck!!

Electrical Systems & Electronics / P323 Main Fuse
« Last post by selene on February 13, 2024, 01:00:34 PM »
Hoping somebody can help...

Upgrading electrics in preparation for LiPO4, and better switching than 1-2-both. In my way is the main DC fuse. It has a big plastic cover over it - unfortunately wedged behind the water heater, so cannot be accessed/removed nondestructively. I therefore cannot see the original fuse rating (50,000 amps AC does not help!).

Does anybody have an idea of the correct fuse size for DC Main? I am assuming it is equivalent to a Class T fuse, and therefore needed in addition to the standard BlueSea 30A breaker.
General Discussion / Re: Garmin now the new Microsoft of Marine products!
« Last post by Last Resort on February 10, 2024, 12:06:22 AM »
the latest garbage reply from Garmin!  Nothing has changed :(    Still out gouging their customers and forcing them to buy new equipment when the original is still working!  Can you imagine if MS had shut down Windows 10 support COMPLETELY after only a year or 2 and made EVERYONE buy Windows 11 to get their support.  Yes it did happen, but not after only 2 years or so!

from Garmin Support:

My apologies, however Product Support for the GPSMAP 721 is no longer available due to its age; that unit has now been moved to online support only (see link below).  That unit is not compatible with any of our current charts and we have not tested it with any current charts.  Even the 2019 charts had very limited compatibility with that generation of chart plotter (such as limited fishing charts, etc.).  I would not recommend updating or purchasing any newer charts for that unit as they have not been tested with it, and if you run into any issues we cannot provide any support for it.

Online Support Center:

Thank you,

Chad W
Marine Product Support
Garmin International
Engine and Drive Train / Re: Starter Battery
« Last post by Last Resort on February 06, 2024, 09:21:55 PM »
it can be, and waiting for the lead acid to die is sensible.  I had 3 31group AGMs as mentioned, and they all died early thanks to Covid and sitting for too long without proper charging by my marina at the time :(   So new batteries where in order.  To replace the 3 AGMs, I was looking at around $1500CDN all in for 3 more, which would've gave me around 160 actual amp hours of use (you only can use 50% of lead acid), but I bought the 2 LiP04s 100ah from Renogy for under $600Cnd on sale a piece (going now for $419cdn) with NO taxes at that time (they've do charge now though!), and now have 200 actual amp hours of use, although I've never had to go down below 65% with my solar panel, and no hydro as I anchor out the whole summer.  Also for you US boaters who are looking at Renogy, their prices in the US are somewhat higher than in Canada, and if you buy in Canada, you also get the great exchange discount as well :)
Engine and Drive Train / Re: Starter Battery
« Last post by selene on February 06, 2024, 12:28:55 PM »
Thanks, it is as I thought. Like I said, my plan is to move to LiPO4 in two stages: first to set up a more futureproof wiring/charging and starter battery, and then - then the lead/acid batteries die - move to Lithium.

The main reason why is that is quite expensive to move direct to Lithium. The batteries are expensive, but it is the electronics, specifically the new voltage regulator and charger, that really bump up the doing it in one go is rather expensive!
Engine and Drive Train / Re: Starter Battery
« Last post by Last Resort on February 03, 2024, 11:44:58 AM »
a group 24 battery is more than enough for a starting battery.  I know some that use a golf cart or motorcycle battery to start their Yanmars.  I use a basic G24 marine myself for starting, and 2 100ah LiP04 for my house (which replaced 3 G31 105ah AGM batteries, and the 2 LiP04s give me more actual ah usage than the old 3 did :)).  It takes alot of special wiring, devices and such (alot of research), but with the price of LiP04 starting batteries, it's the best solution right now.  Once the LiP04 starter batteries come down in price, I'll most likely switch my G24 out too. 
Engine and Drive Train / Starter Battery
« Last post by selene on February 01, 2024, 08:02:02 PM »
I'm finally starting the project to add a starter battery to Selene. I was simply going to use a G27 battery, but apparently my engine (Westerbeke 30BThree) only needs 190 CCA. So I was wondering...maybe a G24? or even smaller?

What do you have?

After setting up the new starter batter, I can link the 2xG28 @~100ah each, so I'll have a small but robust house bank. Plan is to use a Victron Orion charger between the two banks; I could use a basic BlueSeas ACR, but it I eventually want to move to LiPO4, the Orion seems a more futureproof choice.

Thoughts welcome!
Engine and Drive Train / Re: Electric Drive
« Last post by #95 on January 30, 2024, 03:53:36 PM »
The V-Drive is pretty bulletproof.  Ours, on our 1977 P323, has been trouble-free since we bought the boat in 2009.  We've put almost 2000 hours on it since then. And Walter will still support and rebuild them IFF you have the original stamped serial number tag still attached and readable.

Thanks for this bit of info. It's a shame that Volvo doesn't support the MD11c with available spares (at least on this side of the Atlantic) Mine starts, runs, overheats at 2.5K RPM, then the alarm goes off. It also burns some oil.

The 323 is a very recent purchase, so I have no experience with her on the water. With that said, a repower is suggested and with no parts available for cylinder/compression, it seems electric would be the best/easiest/cheapest way to get her running again.
New Member Introductions / Re: Pearson 36-2 New Owner
« Last post by Last Resort on January 26, 2024, 02:01:21 PM »
you'll find a goldmine for Pearson info here as well!   Between these 2 sites, I've always managed to get all the help I needed :)

P530 / Re: Points of attention when buying a P530
« Last post by Jharrisoncs on January 26, 2024, 10:56:34 AM »
Team, I thought I would add to this posting for others as well if they come look. I have completely re-built my Pearson 530, and here is my observations that I would outline:

- Correct above on the core issues, in various spots. A good survey will outline the potential problem areas. However, while the repair work is detailed, the strength of this vessel in my opinion makes it worth it and not as complicated as many may think to DIY the work.

- The Fuel Tank... the large center aluminum tank needs inspecting at some point empty by tanking the access hatches off. You will most likely find pitted corrosion at the bottom. It's a thicker tank then those today, but looking at how deep the pits are may be worth it if you can.

- Look at the Knees in the Salon where the aft main chain plates are attached. For some reason, they drilled large holes to pass cables through the top of the knees, which weaken them, but more importantly.. they didnt seal them and the core is exposed. If your chain plates leak (and they will at some point) you don't want them rotting out.

- If the chainplates are original, replace them. The are not hard to access, you can replace them yourself fairly easily. It was about a $1500 investment for me and 2 days of work. 1 to remove and 1 to install.

- Look for any delimitation of the tabbing on the main salon starboard bulkhead. If you see a vertical long gap between the two panels of the Starboard bulkhead, your bottom tabbing near the bilge most likely is failing.

- The aft portion of the Keel, where it is more hollow, you will most likely find water inside the cavity. Look for small little seeping holes. The repair is not hard... I drilled, drained, then filled the cavity with epoxy, then fiberglassed over. You can find great instructions on-line on how to fix this repair.

- Hood Mast Furling System - This will need inspection, lube where appropriate at mast head, etc. With the rig down you can work easily on it. I did not find a single failed part, just needed cleaning and care. 

- Most of all the common electrical and plumbing systems will have deteriorated over time, I replaced everything on mine. However, the strength of this vessel and how well / thick it has been built you should find a strong solid foundation that you can trust.
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