Topics

16

Engine and Drive Train / Has anyone tried to bleed their diesel engines this way?

« on: November 16, 2018, 10:51:25 AM »

Has anyone tried this?----->https://youtu.be/f5qfEayHx8c

Seems to make sense and would really make life easier.

Michael

17

Engine and Drive Train / Another Fuel Tank Question..

« on: November 14, 2018, 03:01:28 PM »

I have a monel fuel tank in Valor that needs to be repaired. None of the welders around here want anything to do with it. I even called a welding school and the guy didn't even know what the material was. I found 1 welder who can work on it, but I would need to purchase a piece of Monel which is about $500 bucks for a 6x6 piece and that excludes the price of the repair.. I can buy 2 replacement tanks for what this may cost.

For those of you that have replaced your tanks, did you go poly or aluminum?

Who built it for you?

Did you go smaller for a higher turn over or did you keep the 30 gallon size?

I know Florida Tanks built many of the tanks for Pearson's. Does anyone have the Florida Marine part number?

Many thanks in advance.

Michael

18

Boat Handling / When do you reef??

« on: July 19, 2018, 08:21:26 AM »

Just a quick question to all of you out there.  At what wind speeds do you typically reef and in what order?  The follow up question is above 20 knots of wind, what does your sail plan look like? 

Michael

19

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Before you buy a gauge, check if your chart plotter can display the info

« on: June 06, 2018, 04:01:11 PM »

My direct read fuel gauge was shot and needed replacement. Instead of drilling a hole to mount a gauge (which I couldn't stomach to do ), I purchased an electronic fuel sender and connected an analog to NMEA 2000 converter from my new electronic fuel sender to the NMEA 2000 backbone. That it.  You do not need to run a separate circuit to the fuse panel then snake wires back to the gauge. Just 1 cable from the sender to the backbone.

 From my mechanical systems page on my B&G Zeus2 chart plotter, I can now see my fuel level. Not only that, but I now have a high/ low fuel alarm which I can set at whatever % I want it to go off at. Another cool thing is It will tell me the amount of fuel used over the course of the trip.

Using similar components, I also installed water safe sending units on my 2 fresh water tanks and an ultasound sender (no moving parts)on my waste tank as well and connected them to the backbone. So from my chart plotter I know how much water and waste is in my tanks also.High and low alarms can be set on these as well. When I refill my fresh water tanks, the high alarm goes off before I spit water out of the vent tube and fill up the bilge.

 I'm currently in the process of putting the engine temp, RPM, oil pressure and oil temp on the backbone so I can get a direct read from the helm. This part is a little more involved but it has been a very simple project so far. Before you drill holes all over the place, check to see if your chart plotter can fill the gap. Having all of the information readily available has simplified the daily use of the boat. No more guessing.

Michael

20

Engine and Drive Train / Finally got a new prop

« on: May 15, 2018, 02:47:46 PM »

I couldn't afford a folding prop, so after a ton of research I ended up purchasing a Campbell Sailor Prop. West by North is the company name and they're in British Colombia. It took 10 days to get and they were awesome to deal with. They have a very unique prop design. The blades are 40% narrower then a standard prop but they look very aggressive. Drag is also reduced 40% compared to a stock prop as well, but those were magazine test articles, not my own observations.

My Yanmar 3GM30F has a max RPM of 3600. The boat was purchased with a 15x14 prop and I could only get 6kn@ 3300 RPM max which is why I was changing the prop. The new prop is sized at 15x9 which brings me to 3550 RPM. I normally cruise at 2800 RPM. My old prop with a fresh bottom was 5.5 knots @2800RPM. The new prop was 7.2 knots at 2800RPM. SOG was 6.8kn with a .3 current against. It really feels like a completely different boat when motoring now. When I upgraded to a PSS seal over the winter, I pulled the shaft, had it checked, cleaned and balanced just because. There is ZERO vibration of any type with the new prop as well.

The performance in reverse seemed to be good and the prop walk pulling up to the fuel dock feels like half of what it was. Overall I am extremely pleased. The price point is about $680 with 3 day shipping. If you're in the market for a new prop, check them out!

21

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Alternate House Bank Battery Location

« on: March 28, 2018, 08:41:41 AM »

Can the house bank be installed someplace other than the stern of the boat? Was thinking about removing the bow tank and installing them under the V-berth. Considering all of the weight stored in the stern of the boat plus passengers, figured 200 lbs can be moved forward with no ill effects. Thoughts?

22

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Idea's for a new fridge.

« on: February 26, 2018, 02:13:57 PM »

Hey guys,

Looking for some input to this so feel free to let me know your thoughts.

Last season I spent an enormous amount of time on the boat. I sailed everyday and spent 5 nights a week out on it. I have also gone through the past season running bags of ice out to the boat on the mooring and it honestly sucks. Even if your careful with bins and crates, your food always gets wet and if something spills, it drains into the bilge and that's another entire topic of conversation.  I have read all of the posts on this site about converting the icebox to a fridge, and the consensus seems to be there isn't enough insulation in the design and build of the current icebox as it was delivered from Pearson.  My situation dictates I need a fridge. I like stuff cold and the BS with the ice needs to go away. If I can limit the AH of the compressor to 20-30 per day then the solar option can offset that load.

So here is my thought process. Instead of drilling holes all over the icebox so I can pour 2 part foam in or destroy my counter to add foam sheets and maybe get a better R value or not, why not make a new fridge?

I still have the old pressurized alcohol stove in my boat. It works fine but the whole operation makes me nervous. If the stove was removed there is a huge space there. A properly insulated structure can be built within that space very easily. Access would be so much easier because it's not buried in the corner, you wouldn't need to do a hand stand to get the stuff out of the bottom and you can even put the door on the side!. The old Ice box can be used as a non perishable food storage area, pots pans dishes storage or dry ice it to make a freezer as needed. A gimbaled Origo stove top is more then enough to prepare any meal. It just seems like an absolute way of solving the problem without destroying the counter top and cabinets. So what do you guys think? Crazy or MAYBE a good project idea?

Let me know!
Michael

23

General Discussion / INSURANCE

« on: February 16, 2018, 12:33:12 PM »

Has anyone else received their renewal policy for 2018? I use Boat U.S which is Geico, and my policy went up $200 bucks for no reason!!!. They said its the just price to protect your investment. I carry a fully maxed out policy on everything and I am now over 900 a year. I am considering getting a new insurance carrier. Who do you guys use and are you getting a good deal. Thanks!

Michael

24

Sails and Canvas / Looking for a used 95% Jib - P323

« on: December 04, 2017, 03:21:27 PM »

Looking for a smaller jib around 90 or 95%. If anyone has a GOOD to EXCELLENT used one please contact me. Thanks!

Michael

25

Engine and Drive Train / New prop

« on: November 02, 2017, 07:12:36 PM »

Hi Everyone,
Hoping someone has some information on a new prop for Valor.  I have a Yanmar 3gm30f diesel spinning a 15 x 8 prop. Seems like my speed under motor is off a bit. I have the ability to bring the engine to max revs which is 3400 rpm, so it not bogging down or low on power and i normally run the engine good when  i cruise between 2400 and 2800 rpm. The engine is in perfect running order. Is there anyone out there running a similar sized (27-30hp) diesel that can tell me what prop theyre using?

I was on a friends Ericson 38 with 6 people on it and it was easily doing 6-7 knots recently. I should be able to steam stronger then 5 knots. Opinions please!

Thanks
Michael

26

Engine and Drive Train / 323 Florida Tanks model number needed. (fuel tank)

« on: June 15, 2017, 03:43:57 PM »

Hi Everyone.

I have a monel Florida Marine Tank in my boat. I need to replace the fuel sender because mine is shot. I contacted Florida Marine and they require a tank model number so they can get me the appropriate sender. The tank tag is located on a area of the tank I really cant see. If anyone has it the model number, I would appreciate if you can post it. Thanks!

Happy summer,

Michael M

27

Ports & Hatches / Hatch Removal

« on: May 31, 2017, 04:22:41 PM »

Hi Everyone,

Like everyone else at some point, my hatches require a little TLC. The hatches  appear to be attached from the topside of the boat. To those of you that have removed, rebuilt and reinstalled your hatches, I have a few questions I couldn't find any answers to.

1- Are they through bolted or do they just screw into the core of the deck?

2- Once they are removed, can they be completely disassembled?

3- Is there an interior liner to deck gap that needs to be closed up similar to the removal and resealing procedures of the cabin ports?

4- Aside from the hatch lid to hatch base 9/16th round gasket, is the hatch base to deck sealed with butyl tape or is there a gasket needed?

5- Does the interior white trim ring or headliner need to be removed to remove the hatch?

Is there a cheaper alternative to the 9/16th round gasket that seals the hatch lid to the hatch base?  It's 6.99 per foot at Defender and if my math is right  I'm going to need close to 14 feet to seal both lids??? It sounds kind of crazy to pay $100 for a piece of foam gasket?

Thanks in advance!

Michael

28

Engine and Drive Train / Oil change vac issues with Yanmar

« on: May 21, 2017, 10:14:44 PM »

Hey,

I've have purchased and tried 2 different types of vacuum pumps to change the oil on my 3gm30f, and i can not get the vac hose into the dipstick port. I tried going to home depot to find a smaller diameter piece of tubing but there's nothing smaller to buy. So for anyone out there that has this engine, can you please tell me which pump you purchased that fits. Thanks in advance.

Michael

29

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / No name winches?

« on: May 12, 2017, 08:33:26 AM »

Hey guys,

I want to sevice my winches and there are no markings on it denoting a brand name anywhere. Is there anyone who would know what brand the primaries were on a 1978 323. I went as far as removing the drums but there was nothing inside either.

Michael

30

P323 / Update!

« on: May 02, 2017, 11:46:43 PM »

Hi Everyone,

Just a quick update to what has been done to hull #108 since I have put her on the hard on April 11th.

Mast un-stepped, complete rewire,RG-213 coax, new anemometer, wind vane, steaming deck light combo, spreader lights, combo anchor, tri-color navigation light, SOS Morse strobe. All of the lighting is LED and they were purchased from Marine Beam. The masthead light is a 2 wire light. You switch between anchor, nav and strobe by turning the breaker off for 5 seconds then back on. It defaults to anchor then nav then stobe. Best part is its 99 bucks. The sell just the bulb that can be retrofitted to a compatible light fixture. It's very cool.

All new running rigging, lazy jacks, and reefing lines. Main, reef #1 and vang led to cockpit.

New toilet installed.

All of the tubing from the water tanks to the pump to the faucets was replaced and the tanks were cleaned. Installed a canister filter before the pump and a Brita filter on the faucet. The water tastes like Poland Spring.

Installed a B&G chartplotter.

Installed a Raymarine EV-100 auto pilot.

Installed an Airmar combo temp, depth, speed transducer.

Constructed the NMEA 2000 backbone.

2 new cockpit scupper hoses.

1 new deck scupper hose

Removed, inspected, polished and re-bed all of the chain plates.

Took the original Schaefer drum off of the furler, soaked it in some DAWN overnight to clean out the bearings and races.  Drilled a new hole on the top of the drum for a different location for the furler line knot so it doesn't bind the drum up. The stock knot location is stupid and it prevents the drum from spinning free. Huge, huge difference.

Adjusted all of the lifelines.

A lot of rewiring. I mean a lot a lot as in days and days.

Sanded the bottom. Apparently the bottom 5 inches of my rudder support/skeg is wood. Is anyone else's? Seems odd. Re painted hull.

Sanded the teak toe rail to bare wood and applied 3 coats of Cetol. (Sucky job)

Propeller and shaft were stripped of anti foul.

New zincs.

Fixed all 4 seacocks.

Anchor well and the ice box drain fixed.

Cleaned the engine bay and engine.

New fuel filters.

My boat had carpet in the cabin. It was removed and the floors and the interior were scrubbed clean.

Cleaned and marked the entire anchor chain and rode.

Steam cleaned all of the interior upholstery.

I'm sure there is some stuff I missed but this is a pretty good summary of what was done. I started this project on the 11th of April and I'm a 1 man show. The only thing I am subbing out is the compounding of the hull because I want to splash the boat  by next weekend, and between life and my work schedule, I am running out of time. To make up for it I am compounding and waxing the topside of the boat so I don't feel so bad. ( ha )  I took a few pictures, not many because I just wanted to keep moving and get it all done. This is without a doubt, the easiest boat I ever had to work on. You have access to pretty much everything. you may need to be double jointed to reach some things but it went very smooth. If you have any questions, please ask away.

Cheers,
Michael M