Messages

1

Electrical Systems & Electronics / Re: Yanmar instrument panel replacement

« on: September 03, 2016, 01:12:36 PM »

Just going off ancient memory but the wiring should be in the harness already.  If you change from a light to a gauge you also need to change the sending units. I.E. if you have an oil light, it uses a switch, If you have an oil pressure gauge it uses a sending unit (pressure variable resistor). Same goes for temp light to gauge. Tach is the same. You can have a custom panel made but no matter if you go factory or custom it's probably going to be pretty pricey. But then again to borrow from Don Henley, When's the last time you saw a hearse with a roof rack on it?   

Yanmar makes a multi gauge that has the tach, oil pressure and water temp all in one that would replace your existing tach . I think they run about $400?  Plus you need the senders. So you can keep the panel you have but get real time info from gauges, not idiot lights.

Not a hard job to do.

2

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Diesel fill problem.

« on: September 03, 2016, 11:27:38 AM »

Just a couple of thoughts you might want to consider the MD11 burns about .5gph.  I lived aboard and sailed/motored a lot. Usually only filled the tank once a year if even that.

You could probably get a machine shop to cut down a brass pipe or plastic pipe to whatever size you needed for a fill adapter.  The plastic one I mentioned from ecstuning could be sanded or ground down to fit but should work as it is. Comes with it's own sealable jar too so you don't get diesel smell in the boat when you store the funnel.

An "inside caliper" would be a good tool to measure the deck fill you have.

Hope this helps.

 

3

Engine and Drive Train / Re: md11c transmission leak

« on: September 03, 2016, 11:06:52 AM »

Walter manual attached if you want it. Still an easy fix. Might want to check for axial play if you take it out. Unless the seal is hard it might be a worn bearing that is the cause of the leak.

4

Engine and Drive Train / Re: md11c transmission leak

« on: September 02, 2016, 03:25:00 PM »

Parts are out there but not cheap, even by Volvo Penta standards. It's easy to rebuild. But then I pushed a wrench for a living for 45 years.

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Reverse-Gear-833860/dm/cart_id.213372064--session_id.573808437--store_id.366--view_id.771961

Any Volvo Penta dealer should be able to get you parts. Anyone that rebuilds auto transmissions should be able to do it for you especially if you just want to reseal it. You could try adding 1/4 bottle Lucas Oil "transmission fix" to it. Will slow the leak down at least. Auto parts stores carry it. 

5

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Diesel fill problem.

« on: September 02, 2016, 03:09:01 PM »

Built back before there was low sulfur diesel and such. I use a filler neck/spout of a plastic gas can.  ecstuning sells one for VW that works well, $8.00 No affiliation.

6

Engine and Drive Train / Re: MD11c water leak.

« on: May 10, 2016, 03:31:03 PM »

Schematic you have is for an MD17C and is a different beast altogether.. #8 is a 17C oil dipstick tube

The intake side is on the STBD or Air filter side.  The exhaust side is on the PORT or outlet pipe/exhaust wet pipe. The only water stuff down low on the engine is on the exhaust side. There are 2 drains which may have been replaced ( I did with mine and use zincs) or maybe leaking. Otherwise the only water stuff is the hose and piping under the exhaust manifold.

  https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7742230-21-15101.aspx

 is the same part schematic for your 11C. There are 2 drains (#41 & #42) there that could be leaking. You can simply unscrew or drill them out and use 1/8" NPT brass pipe plugs.  Any way to get a picture of it? Ideally from 18" away and with a yellow pencil pointing to the offending part? If it's down below the elbow and petcock may be what you are looking at but it may look unlike the picture after 35+ years.

Hope this helps.

Al

7

Engine and Drive Train / Re: MD11c water leak.

« on: May 07, 2016, 07:05:55 PM »

Good picture here:

https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7742230-26-15106.aspx

Link from a post by Dolce Vita. Kudos

8

Engine and Drive Train / Re: MD11c water leak.

« on: May 07, 2016, 06:57:39 PM »

The water pipe is part of the exhaust manifold. 8 bolts, 2 gaskets.  You can have a machine shop cut a 3/8 NPT close nipple to press in as a replacement or tap the manifold for 3/8 NPT and use a pipe tee fitting and then use 5/8 heater hose or use 1/2" NPT and use 3/4" heater hose.

Al

9

General Discussion / Re: Winter Projects

« on: May 07, 2016, 06:21:42 PM »

Hi Bob,

Re:2  I have extended the sides of the hatch base to meet the top and sealed it with foam seal tape (same as on the hatches). Used Starboard with a groove routed into it.  If you look at the hatches from the inside you will see they are not water tight. If you do any offshore sailing this is a weak point on 323s. If you take a wave into the cockpit you will ship a lot of water through the hatches. They don't bang when dropped anymore. Before doing this I used a custom sized bungee cord from the lifeline to the hatch top and it helps with the hatch slamming shut when you don't want it to.

Re: 3    I have a diesel but the heat issue is the same. I run an inline or tubaxial 4" blower fan (about 220 cfm) whenever running the engine. Outlet and fan are mounted on the port stern dorade to the port lower side of the engine and the inlet hose runs from the stbd dorade and hose/duct goes to the center top of the engine where the alternator is. The air flow does a couple of things. It helps cool the high output alternator when heavy charging is going on. It also helps keep the engine compartment nice and cool even after running for hours. This helps keeps the ice cubes in the fridge/freezer from melting and any engine odors go out the back.

Hope this helps

Al
P323 #217 Sanctuary