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Messages - Bill1188

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Plumbing and Galley Systems / Re: Boat Fridge
« on: April 21, 2021, 01:07:51 PM »
Dolce Vita, bought an Inkbird thermostat. The thermostat from the Adler Barbour system has a two part wire, I'm assuming positive and negative from the main unit. Likely power. The Inkbird unit calls for 12 volt power, the sensor hook up, and then a pair of wires for cooling. Sensor hookup straight forward. The Adler Barbour wire to the power hook up or the cooling? Or does it go to cooling and I need to run a new power lead to that hookup? If I do that, I could be running 12v into the Inkbird at two spots. What did you do?

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Re: Rope Halyard
« on: February 18, 2021, 08:04:37 PM »
I did get the answer I was looking for. Last spring I replaced the sheaves as the wire portion of the halyard had dug a groove in the metal and got jammed. New sheaves can be used with either wire or rope. I'm electing to go with rope to avoid the metal on metal wear.

Standing & Running Rigging and Fitting/Tuning / Rope Halyard
« on: January 27, 2021, 08:21:38 PM »
Time to switch out the old wire to rope jib halyard. Too cold for me to go measure anything in Michigan. What is length I need and best diameter? Pearson 323.

Plumbing and Galley Systems / Boat Fridge
« on: May 31, 2020, 07:49:43 PM »
I've had my 323 for 18 seasons. I have an Adler Barbour fridge. Any suggestions for bolt out bolt in replacement thermostat. Also, effective way of sealing lid to counter joint. I've tried the adhesive rubber door insulation to no avail. Looking for end all.

Sails and Canvas / Re: Full cockpit enclosure
« on: February 15, 2020, 10:23:24 AM »
I have a normal dodger. I have a Bimini that zips to the back edge of dodger. It has a sleeve at the rear the I slide a stainless rod through, keeping the rod aft of the rear shroud. Have an acrylic window in rear of Bimini so if it is up while sailing, I can view the vane at the masthead. I also have zippers running the length of the three sides of the Bimini that I can zip panels on to. These panels extend down to the lower life line. In a downpour I can sail and keep pretty dry underneath.

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Instrument panel Volvo MD IIC
« on: September 15, 2019, 07:02:27 PM »
I can send you photos of each instrument back. This site won't allow attachment so give me e-mail address. I'm

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Tach sender for Volvo MD11
« on: August 26, 2019, 02:55:18 PM »
I have an MD 11 in my garage. Send a photo of what you need. Mine was fine when I changed motors 2 years ago. Have tach, also.

Interior Structures / Re: Interior bulkheads and assorted woodwork
« on: March 02, 2019, 11:47:55 AM »
I've been thinking of doing the same. What is the prep necessary to make sure varnish goes on properly? And if wood is washed out in some areas, does teak oil remedy that and then does varnish stick to teak oil?

That is the throttle. Mine was a cable off other end that went to Edson pedestal. Yours looks like a back up cable going the other direction. My choke is the red button you push down to start. Piece you look to replace is similar to a cable extender I bought for my 73 VW Beetle. Empi part but guess any good part store will have it.

Still have it. Got a picture of what you need?

Sails and Canvas / Sail Cleaning
« on: September 17, 2018, 04:20:03 PM »
Need advise on what to soak asymmetrical in to clean and remove some light mildew.

Engine and Drive Train / Re: Tachometer Quit
« on: August 06, 2018, 06:11:04 PM »
I have a complete MD 11 and instrument panel in my garage. Let me know what you need.

I have an MD11c in my garage which came out of my boat earlier this year. Fresh water parts to include the alternator.

P31 / Re: Water logged sole over the bilge.
« on: October 19, 2017, 03:05:30 PM »
I took my floor out two years ago. Pain, chipping out all the bungs and removing screws. Heat gunned off old finish, light sanding, five coats satin polyurethane. I fastened the floor by flush sinking some inserts into fiberglass and then flush fastening some shouldered brass washers in the wood. Then took some flat head brass screws to fasten floor. Looks great, brass and nautical. And I can take up floor any time by removing screws instead of hammering out bungs again.

Sails and Canvas / Re: waterproofing bimini
« on: June 23, 2017, 08:27:57 AM »
Rustoleum makes a product, Never Wet, which is more or less 303 Protectant at a fraction of the price. Non silicone, compatible with Sunbrella. Got mine at Home Depot.

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