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Messages - harbin2

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1
P323 / Step for Pearson 323
« on: May 30, 2021, 11:26:49 AM »
This post was moved from the cbpsa.org forum

Wayne See
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Step for Pearson 323
« on: June 30, 2016, 04:31:22 am »
I recently purchased my Pearson 323 hull 98. The step plate was almost totally corroded away. I had a stainless steel step fabricated and had to cut 4 inches off the mast as the bottom was corroded. The step was built up 4" to compensate.  I was wondering if anyone else had a similar problem? I am thinking of putting in a small bilge pump at the base of the mast to move standing water away from the step plate. The sink and shower drain into this compartment. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Ed Criscuolo
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Re: Step for Pearson 323
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2016, 05:05:01 pm »
Hi Wayne,

Welcome to the PSA and welcome to the forum.

We too have a p-323 which also had mast step issues when we bought it. The OEM Pearson step was fabricated from mild steel which had rusted severly in the damp bilge. Even worse, galvanic corrosion between the steel and the aluminum mast had eaten into the mast enough to be of concern. This is a known problem with some Pearsons.

A few years ago, I took down the mast and completely rebuilt it, sandblasting it down to a bare pole and doing new paint, fittings, wiring, lights, and rigging. In the process of this, we had to cut off 4" from the foot of the mast and have a new step fabricated. I went with welded 1/2" aluminum plate on the theory that it would produce no galvanic corrosion with the alum. mast. Probably overkill, as the original steel step and mast lasted over 30 years!

As for the bilge, the shower and sink should NOT drain into it!  I suspect a previous owner modified it. Ours has a small sump tank located under the large floor hatch in the main cabin. The shower, small sink, and the icebox drain into it. A manually activated electric pump empties it.

If you come to the July rendezvous we can compare notes. Looking forward to meeting you.
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@(^.^)@. Ed
1977 P-323 #42 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4
Wayne See
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Re: Step for Pearson 323
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2016, 07:30:34 am »
Ed thank you for the information you provided on the step plate. I will look into routing the sink and shower water to the bilge.  I am going through the systems on the boat to see what I need to modify. The information other owners of older boats provide  is very useful. Thank you for your reply. By the way, I am having an electrician look at the electrical system as i believe it is the original wiring.

I don't think we can make the rendezvous due to previous commitments. Thanks again
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Ed Criscuolo
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Re: Step for Pearson 323
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2016, 09:40:07 am »
Sorry you can't make it.  But I'm sure we'll eventually meet up sometime.

Since your 323 is a 1978, I'm assuming you have an Atomic 4 engine.  Ours 1977 does, and I'm quite happy with this dependable, simple, easily serviced little engine. You should look up the Moyer marine forum (http://moyermarine.com/forum).  It contains a lot of very high-quality info on the A4, as well as a lot of active and knowledgable members who are happy to help.

You should definitely look up the Pearson-323 Owners website and forum: http://www.pearson323.com/ .  Lots of 323 Owners there.  And they maintain a registry of as many of the 323s as they can find.  I noticed that hull #98 is not listed in the registry, so you should at least pop by there and send the webmaster an email with your information.

Are you having any specific electrical issues?  I'm pretty familiar with the boat's electrical system.  The original wiring is pretty sad, and ours has been further complicated by EIGHT previous owners before us!  Little by little, I've been going through and correcting the problems.
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@(^.^)@. Ed
1977 P-323 #42 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4
Wayne See
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Re: electrical for 323
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2016, 07:15:20 pm »
Ed, the original atomic 4 was replaced with a yanmar 30 hp diesel. It is a tight squeeze to replace impellers and fuel filters.

My main concern with the electrical is the 110 AC. There is no breaker panel or a circuit breaker for the water heater or the outlets in the boat. I could use another 12 volt dc breaker panel to accommodate anything I might add.

This is the fun of owning an older boat.
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Ed Criscuolo
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Re: Step for Pearson 323
« Reply #5 on: July 02, 2016, 11:27:12 am »
Yes, the OEM A/C wiring is primitive.  That was one of the first things I replaced.  Here's a link to the projects page of my website describing the upgrade I did.
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@(^.^)@. Ed
1977 P-323 #42 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4

2
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Jordan Snyder
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Love my Pearson 31-2 - Anyone have any good modifications to share?
« on: April 03, 2016, 07:59:10 am »
Hey All,

Just wondering if anyone has done anything cool to modify their 31-2? I am working on lots of cosmetic stuff including interior and exterior teak finishing, LED lighting bulb upgrades, new sanitation hoses, electronics installation like autopilot, wind/depth/temp gauges and much more.

Thanks,
Jordan Snyder
s/v BaseCamp
www.findingjordan.com
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Ed Criscuolo
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Re: Love my Pearson 31-2 - Anyone have any good modifications to share?
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2016, 08:05:27 pm »
Jordan,

Although not P-31 specific, please see my message on LED replacement lighting:
http://cbpsa.org/forum/index.php?topic=24.0
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@(^.^)@. Ed
1977 P-323 #42 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4
Jeff Storck
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Re: Love my Pearson 31-2 - Anyone have any good modifications to share?
« Reply #2 on: May 30, 2016, 04:28:36 pm »
Hi Jordan,

I just finished replacing sanitation hoses and installing an electric toilet on my P31-2. Not a fun job, but my wife likes the upgrade. I am sure we must have seen each other out on the Bay at one time or another. I sail out of Galesville. You'll recognize me by my hull number on the main -163.

Cheers,

Jeff Storck
S/v Just Add Water

3
Electrical Systems & Electronics / LED Replacement Bulbs
« on: May 28, 2021, 04:35:16 PM »
This post has been moved from the cbpsa.org forum

LED Replacement Bulbs
« on: April 03, 2016, 07:48:52 pm »
Over in the P-31 topic area, Jordan Snyder asked about any interesting P-31 mods, including LED bulb replacements.
Although I don't have a P-31, Pearson Yachts tended to use a lot of the same hardware across many of their models, so I thought I'd post this response under the General Interest topic area, since it could apply to multiple boat models.

At this point, virtually all of the lights on our P-323 have either had LED bulb replacements, or have been replaced with sealed LED fixtures. Overall current draw for lighting is about one-tenth of what it was.  Here's a summary of what I learned and some URLs.

First, an Important Observation.

When selecting LEDs for marine use, it is important to select ones with a built-in "constant current" regulator, because the wide range of voltages normally present on a boat's 12v DC system can drastically reduce the lifetime of unregulated LEDs.  Constant-current LEDs can be easily identified by the wide voltage range in their specs, eg: 10 - 30V.  Unregulated ones will typically callout something like 12-15V.  Don't buy these, even if they're lots cheaper!  Better to cry once rather than cry often!

Detailed technical info here:
http://store.marinebeam.com/technical-info-1/

Cabin Lights

Pearson tended to use 10 Watt single-contact bayonet base halogen bulbs (sometimes called "elevator bulbs") for the cabin lights.  They put out plenty of light, but got very hot.  You risked burning your fingers on them when reaching for the on/off switch on a rocking boat!  Our P-323 used SEVEN of these!
Several companies make direct replacement constant-current LEDs for these.  The light output is close to the same as the 10W bulbs, but they only draw 1W! And no risk of burnt fingers!

They come in "flood" and "spot" styles.  I used the flood style on the nav station and in the V-berth, and the spot style in the main cabin, and have been quite satisfied with them.  The color is just slightly less "yellow" than the halogens, but still a "warm white".  The flood even comes in red if you want red light at your nav station.

Flood:
http://store.marinebeam.com/bayonet-led-bulb-6-led-power-cluster-reader/

Spot:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/bayonet-bulbs/led-product/394/

Bow Navigation Lights

Navigation lights are a tricky topic, as they must be Coast Guard approved to be legal.  The problem is that Coast Guard approval encompases both the bulb and the light fixture as a single unit.  This would require LED manufacturers to have their replacement bulbs tested in every possible fixture, a prohibitively expensive procedure, if it were even possible!  This leaves us in the precarious position of having superior bulbs available that aren't legal to use.  You could go ahead and do so, but be forwarned that if you are involved in a boating accident, especially at night, the insurance adjuster will check if your lighting is Coast Guard Approved.  Failing this question could provide grounds for denying a claim!

The solution is for the manufacturer to build a sealed fixture with LEDs that can then be tested and Coast Guard approved.  Several manufacturers now do this.
Many of the '70s and early '80s Pearsons used "teardrop" style recessed bow nav lights on the port and starboard sides instead of a single fixture mounted up high on the bow pulpit.  I located Coast Guard approved sealed LED teardrop fixtures that are drop-in replacements for the ones Pearson (and many others) used. They are much brighter than the incandescent ones they replaced:

Shark Eye Teardrop Style Lights
http://www.boaterbits.ca/products/shark-eye-teardrop-style-led-navigation-lights

Steaming Light

Again, all the above comments about Coast Guard approval apply. Although the low power draw of LEDs is not really an issue here (its only on when you've got the engine running), the 50,000 hour lifetime is!  No more climbing the mast to replace a burnt out bulb!  This is what I used:

3NM USCG-Certified 225° Masthead (Steaming) Light
https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-steaming-light/


Anchor Light

Here, power is a big deal, because your anchor light is left on all night.  Again, LED, sealed, CG aproved, and 50,000 hr life:

USCG-Certified LED Anchor Light
https://store.marinebeam.com/led-all-around-anchor-light/


Spreader Lights

Our original installation had a pair of round fixtures here with a single 10 Watt bulb each.  When they were working, which wasn't often, they were about as effective as dim moonlight.  Between corrosion  and dead bulbs, I was up the mast far too often.

Since spreader lights aren't typically left on for long periods, I reasoned that light output, longevity, and reliability wewe more important than power draw, so I replaced them with a pair of sealed LED fixtures that had an array of five 3 watt LEDs each, a total of 15 watts apiece!  They light up the deck like aircraft landing lights!

The only problem was that they came with a tiny U-shaped mounting bracket that was intended to be through-bolted.  So I had a local machinist fabricate a set of stainless, flat baseplates that were curved to match the underside of of the spreaders, and weld the U-brackets onto them.

15W LED Spreader Deck Light
https://store.marinebeam.com/15w-led-spreader-deck-light-for-boats/

Hope this all helps someone!

« Last Edit: April 04, 2016, 07:09:36 pm by Ed Criscuolo »
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@(^.^)@. Ed
1977 P-323 #42 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4

4
Sails and Canvas / Sailmakers and Canvas Repair
« on: May 28, 2021, 04:22:59 PM »


Sailmakers and canvas repair
« on: November 01, 2016, 08:21:06 am »
It's the end of the season. My main sail which is original to my boat Sanctuary P303 is looking like it is in need of a recut, however Owing to it's age I'm also considering replacing it.  Our dodger is also in need of repair work - seams and zipper.   Any recommendations on sailmakers and canvas shops for repair work?  We are in middle river.



Re: Sailmakers and canvas repair
« Reply #1 on: November 17, 2016, 10:39:00 pm »
I've used North Sails in Eastport.  They're good but expensive.

There's a little canvas shop in Pasadena called Atlantic Canvas that has been doing my
sunbrella work recently.  Owner's name is Ashby.  Good work at a fair price.
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@(^.^)@. Ed
1977 P-323 #42 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4
This post and two responses were moved from the cbpsa.org forum

Re: Sailmakers and canvas repair
« Reply #2 on: December 29, 2016, 05:40:18 pm »
Thanks Ed.

I got estimates from several sailmakers and in the end chose north.  I'm sure they are all good quality but I liked having a rep nearby.  Next on my wish list is a gennaker.   Maybe later this summer.  May try to find a used one this time around.

Phil

5
Electrical Systems & Electronics / New AIS Radio
« on: May 28, 2021, 04:15:00 PM »
The message below was originally posted on the cbpsa.org forum 4/27/2017 by Ron Harbin

I've tried several times to connect my (Garmin) chart plotter to my VHF (icom).  The radio has DSC and I wanted the radio to know where it was (Long/Lat) all the time so the Coast Guard (and other vessels) would know where I was if I were ever in distress.  This spring, I tried for the last time - and gave up.  I put the radio on Craig's List and got half what i paid for it - it was only 3 years old.

The replacement radio is a Standard Horizon GX-2200.  It has the GPS built in so there is no need for an input from the chart plotter.  It also has an AIS receiver.  I got it online  from the GPS Store for just over $300.  Several other makers have similar radios but prices are double what I paid and I like Standard Horizon hardware and instructions.  Installation was fairly easy and so was the setup.  I feel the controls are very intuitive.  In addition to the radio, I got a remote mic (my old radio would not accept one).  The mic is also very well designed and has all the AIS functions built it.  As a bonus, I connected the new radio up to my Garmin chart plotter and was amazed at all the AIS features that are available there (target displays, alarms, data, etc.).

Like lots of electronics these days, this thing will do things you can't even imagine.  But, besides the obvious features, there are a few that I hope to try and use.  I'll try to remember to update this post after I've had a few months to play with my new toy.

6
Mast and Spar Issues / Spreaders swept back too far
« on: November 20, 2020, 02:13:17 PM »
Post
I have a 1988 P31-2.  I have two spreader related questions.
1. How are the spreader end caps removed from the spreader (I want to replace my intermediate and cap shrouds next spring)?
2. My shrouds are swept back too far - so far that the cap shroud chafes against the aft side of the hole in the sides of the mast that they run through.  Does anyone have advice on what might cause this and what they have done to fix it?  I'm currently assuming the "shock absorber" in the attached diagram is worn but I recently looked at a friend's 1987 P31-2 and his shrouds are centered in the holes - so I'm thinking shock absorber wear may not be the problem.
Thanks in advance.
Ron

7
Mast and Spar Issues / Re: 31-2 Spreader Covers
« on: November 20, 2020, 01:19:32 PM »
I have a 1988 31-2 on Middle River.  I've done lots of research on masts etc. as I'm in the middle of replacing my standing riggiing. I looked here because I'm having some spreader issues.  What is a "spreader cover"??

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