Author Topic: P323 hatch refurb  (Read 203 times)

m_boone

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P323 hatch refurb
« on: July 20, 2020, 07:50:41 PM »
Hello all,

I have decided to refurbish the hatches on Blue Sky as Dolce Vita and Alma have described in their posts. After removing the hatches, I noticed that one of the pins on her aft hatch is bent. I believe that these pins are pressed into the the frames. Any ideas about removing and replacing this pin?



« Last Edit: July 20, 2020, 08:10:45 PM by m_boone »

rbrtfeld

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Re: P323 hatch refurb
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2020, 10:31:03 AM »
If anyone is interested, I have a brand new  white hatch For over the main cabin. I never installed it and would take 400.00 plus shipping cost. You can email me at rbrtfeld@aol.com for pictures if needed

m_boone

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Re: P323 hatch refurb
« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2020, 07:20:07 PM »
If anyone is interested, I have a brand new  white hatch For over the main cabin. I never installed it and would take 400.00 plus shipping cost. You can email me at rbrtfeld@aol.com for pictures if needed

That's a very good price.

m_boone

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Re: P323 hatch refurb
« Reply #3 on: July 21, 2020, 07:51:50 PM »
I was poking around the McMaster-Carr website and found that they sell pull-out dowel pins with instructions on how to remove.

https://www.mcmaster.com/pull-out-dowel-pins/

Dolce Vita mentioned this company in several of his posts and I have bought several things from them so far. Great website and customer service/turn-around times. Thanks Ed.

Anyway, I'm pretty sure now that there are no threads on the outside of the pin so I think it should be possible to either pull them using a screw or tap them out with a dowel. I'll have to cut the bent one in order to tap that pin out. Just a little worried about cracking the aluminum trying to remove these pins.

Dolce_Vita

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Re: P323 hatch refurb
« Reply #4 on: July 22, 2020, 01:33:12 PM »
You are correct.  These pins are simply press fit in.  No threads involved.

Don't mess with a wood dowel.  You'll just get frustrated.  The tool you want is called a "drift" or a "pin punch".  I used it to remove all the pins on my hatches before having them cleaned and powder coated.  Here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-762-5-Piece-Roll-Pin/dp/B000OUZBBY


That bent pin looks like the hatch was closed on a line or something.  You will have to cut that one and tap out the pieces afterwards.  Remove the good pin first, as it will be easier to do while things are still together.  Unless, of course, they're both bent, in which case you'll have to cut them both.
@(^.^)@  Ed
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with rebuilt Atomic-4

m_boone

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Re: P323 hatch refurb
« Reply #5 on: July 22, 2020, 06:29:07 PM »
You are correct.  These pins are simply press fit in.  No threads involved.

Don't mess with a wood dowel.  You'll just get frustrated.  The tool you want is called a "drift" or a "pin punch".  I used it to remove all the pins on my hatches before having them cleaned and powder coated.  Here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-762-5-Piece-Roll-Pin/dp/B000OUZBBY


That bent pin looks like the hatch was closed on a line or something.  You will have to cut that one and tap out the pieces afterwards.  Remove the good pin first, as it will be easier to do while things are still together.  Unless, of course, they're both bent, in which case you'll have to cut them both.

Thanks Ed. I've ordered the punch set. I've tried to tap/drive the good pin out with a screw that fits but it didn't seem to budge. I'm sure it's because I tried to use a screw instead of a drift punch and I used light force.

I started looking at galvanic corrosion solutions (pin is stainless in aluminum frame) and found that folks recommend a solution of automatic transmission fluid and acetone (1:1). Tests indicate better results than WD40, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Even if I don't need to use this, there may be others out there that could find this information interesting.

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?219051-How-to-free-a-steel-to-Aluminum-corrosion-bond

Alma

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Re: P323 hatch refurb
« Reply #6 on: July 22, 2020, 08:50:21 PM »
The very best corrosion buster is KROL.

It is available only from the manufacturer.

Get some and have it on hand for your next project.

Meantime try PB Blaster.

Let it sit a few days. The split pin will allow the Blaster to reach the entire joint.

Spray just enough to saturate the pin and tap it with a little hammer to get it to disperse.

Patience is the key. When you feel the need to push forward and make a mess of it- spray a few more drops and give it a little tap to disperse.

Do NOT apply heat with torch after using solvents. They are very poison.

It is very important to back up the hatch with something rigid like teak or aluminum or steel with a small hole to allow the pin to pass through. I have seen these hatch in perfect condition with the hinge boss broken off because someone didn't have the patience to get this done without wrecking it.

Take your time and good luck.
If you're sailing past Cape May give us a shout-out!

m_boone

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Re: P323 hatch refurb
« Reply #7 on: July 25, 2020, 12:42:32 PM »
Thanks Alma,

I bought some KROIL. Also big thanks for talking me through this. I did as you said; "PB Blast, Tap, Repeat" over 48hrs and I was finally able to get the toughest pin out. That pin had evidence of corrosion on it. I would have surely made a mess of this if it hadn't been for you and Ed.

Dolce_Vita

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Re: P323 hatch refurb
« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2020, 03:06:45 PM »
Glad you're making progress!
@(^.^)@  Ed
1977 P-323 #42 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4

Alma

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Re: P323 hatch refurb
« Reply #9 on: August 08, 2020, 10:40:55 AM »
Great news

These old Bomar hatches are well made

I stripped the paint from mine and they are naturally corrosion resistant

They look “shippy” with their Almag alloy exposed too

Good luck
If you're sailing past Cape May give us a shout-out!