Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Ports & Hatches
P323 hatch refurb
m_boone:
--- Quote from: Dolce_Vita on July 22, 2020, 01:33:12 PM ---You are correct. These pins are simply press fit in. No threads involved.
Don't mess with a wood dowel. You'll just get frustrated. The tool you want is called a "drift" or a "pin punch". I used it to remove all the pins on my hatches before having them cleaned and powder coated. Here's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-762-5-Piece-Roll-Pin/dp/B000OUZBBY
That bent pin looks like the hatch was closed on a line or something. You will have to cut that one and tap out the pieces afterwards. Remove the good pin first, as it will be easier to do while things are still together. Unless, of course, they're both bent, in which case you'll have to cut them both.
--- End quote ---
Thanks Ed. I've ordered the punch set. I've tried to tap/drive the good pin out with a screw that fits but it didn't seem to budge. I'm sure it's because I tried to use a screw instead of a drift punch and I used light force.
I started looking at galvanic corrosion solutions (pin is stainless in aluminum frame) and found that folks recommend a solution of automatic transmission fluid and acetone (1:1). Tests indicate better results than WD40, PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. Even if I don't need to use this, there may be others out there that could find this information interesting.
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?219051-How-to-free-a-steel-to-Aluminum-corrosion-bond
Alma:
The very best corrosion buster is KROL.
It is available only from the manufacturer.
Get some and have it on hand for your next project.
Meantime try PB Blaster.
Let it sit a few days. The split pin will allow the Blaster to reach the entire joint.
Spray just enough to saturate the pin and tap it with a little hammer to get it to disperse.
Patience is the key. When you feel the need to push forward and make a mess of it- spray a few more drops and give it a little tap to disperse.
Do NOT apply heat with torch after using solvents. They are very poison.
It is very important to back up the hatch with something rigid like teak or aluminum or steel with a small hole to allow the pin to pass through. I have seen these hatch in perfect condition with the hinge boss broken off because someone didn't have the patience to get this done without wrecking it.
Take your time and good luck.
m_boone:
Thanks Alma,
I bought some KROIL. Also big thanks for talking me through this. I did as you said; "PB Blast, Tap, Repeat" over 48hrs and I was finally able to get the toughest pin out. That pin had evidence of corrosion on it. I would have surely made a mess of this if it hadn't been for you and Ed.
Dolce_Vita:
Glad you're making progress!
Alma:
Great news
These old Bomar hatches are well made
I stripped the paint from mine and they are naturally corrosion resistant
They look “shippy†with their Almag alloy exposed too
Good luck
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