Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Plumbing and Galley Systems

Boat Fridge

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Bill1188:
I've had my 323 for 18 seasons. I have an Adler Barbour fridge. Any suggestions for bolt out bolt in replacement thermostat. Also, effective way of sealing lid to counter joint. I've tried the adhesive rubber door insulation to no avail. Looking for end all.

Dolce_Vita:
There are any number of inexpensive temperature controllers available on Amazon or Ebay, such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-All-Purpose-Temperature-Controller-ITC-1000/dp/B00OXPE8U6/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=electronic+thermostat+controller&qid=1591029268&sr=8-7

I use something similar for both my freezer and refrigerator controls.  They're cheap enough that I carry spares in case one fails, but no problems yet.

grzano:
Hi,

I realize that this just a bit off-topic, however, do you know how many CF the Ice Box is?

Regards,

Greg

Bill1188:
Dolce Vita, bought an Inkbird thermostat. The thermostat from the Adler Barbour system has a two part wire, I'm assuming positive and negative from the main unit. Likely power. The Inkbird unit calls for 12 volt power, the sensor hook up, and then a pair of wires for cooling. Sensor hookup straight forward. The Adler Barbour wire to the power hook up or the cooling? Or does it go to cooling and I need to run a new power lead to that hookup? If I do that, I could be running 12v into the Inkbird at two spots. What did you do?

Dolce_Vita:
If I remember correctly, the electronic thermostat provides a set of relay contacts to control the compressor.  The wire from the compressor should go to one of these, and the other one should go to +12V.  Its not necessary to run two separate +12v feeds to the thermostat, although there's no harm in doing that.  Just terminate the single +12V lead on a terminal post, and then add two wires with ring terminals: one to power the thermostat, and one to power the compressor.

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