Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Engine and Drive Train

Dockside engine removal - for conversion to electric

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mitchellthomas:
I'm preparing to remove my engine and transmission with the boat still in the water - with a stuffing box I understand this isn't a big deal (relatively speaking), however, during my last haulout I had a dripless installed so now I have to find a way to maintain the spring tension on the dripless when I disconnect it from the transmission so my boat doesn't fill up with water.

I'm thinking of installing a shaft retention colar and then add some kind of cross-bracing, butted up to the collar, to maintain the tension. Is this crazy? How much tension is there in that dripless?

My other option is to have it towed across the marina for a haulout. Easier, safer, more costly, but if anything goes wrong it could also be cheaper.

Thoughts?

Also, if anyone is interested in an MD-11C for free let me know (I'm at the Channel Islands Harbor, CA). It actually runs well the two times I've used it. Not sure about the hours though.

rbrtfeld:
I might be interested in that engine for parts. I have been thinking about repowering but mine runs pretty well as well. What are you repowering with. I am south of you in Long Beach Area. I have been thinking about Beta Marine. Text me at 406-855-6682 when you get that engine out

mitchellthomas:
rbrtfeld: I'll let you know when it's available.

I'm converting to electric. I'm going to install a Quiet Torque 10Kw motor from Electric Yacht, which is the equivalent of about 20 hp. My fuel tank will be replaced with 8 LiFePO batteries. Not sure if I'm going to add a genset as well.

Last Resort:
if your dripless is like mine on my 31-2, it's already held back by the locking brackets. I would then try to install a zinc anode (I've done it underwater before) on the shaft right behind the cutlass bearing to hold the shaft in place from springing forward (guess vice grips would work too, but you'd risk scoring the shaft), then if you remove the shaft coupler from the tranny coupler, the whole shaft "should" just stay in place....I'm doing this from memory right now, but I'm pretty sure there should be no issue removing the engine if locked from the engine side and cutlass side....installing the new engine though could present a problem should you need to adjust the shaft to fit the new install.  If anyone finds fault with this, please chime in :)

mitchellthomas:
Using the anode is a great idea! Much simpler than the Tube Goldberg approach I was considering. Thanks for you input!

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