Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Engine and Drive Train

ALMA's trusty Atomic 4 out for first overhaul

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Alma:
Yes- I paid $100 each way and was happy to do so.

We already had a system to get it into the cockpit and when finished back into the salon.

I have a generic engine stand and an adaptor for my 911 engine- I never saw an elegant way of attaching the A-4.

I stripped the A4 on a pallet style fixture on the floor and went from there on my bench.

You may have trouble finding a competent machine shop- I did. When I was young there were auto machine shops in every town... Now not so much. Make sure they have experience with small cylinders. I got into a speed shop and they did a lot of motorcycles so they had fixtures for the tiny A-4 cylinders. The result was spectacular.

I got the genuine NOS Universal pistons on Ebay at half price-  Popular A-4 parts houses sell after-market. Be sure to match them when they arrive- I waited and one was different- Luckily the seller had a few and was happy to send me a match. One was curiously 180 degrees different- crazy. I never saw anything like it- It had its own different part number suffix.

T_schlueter:
I removed the flywheel/bell housing and tried attaching my stand to that end.  The shaft flange got in the way and the bell housing bolt pattern was so narrow I couldn't manipulate the stand arms enough to attach them. I had to make an adapter out of 3/4in. plywood to interface between the engine and stand. So far so good!  I want to be able rotate it upside down to remove crankcase pan for easy access to connecting rods.

Alma:
Sounds good!

T_schlueter:
I've attached a picture of my head.  There are five coolant holes that seem to be filled in somehow.  I don't think they are simply plugged up with gunk.  I tried drilling one out and just hit metal.  I circled the holes.  Does this sound right?  Also, how did you get the studs out?  I've tried double nutting without success.  I'll look for a stud remover sometime today to see if that works as well as some YouTube vids make it out to be.

Alma:
I can't see the detail in the picture. If you hit metal stop and investigate.

You'll need some patience with the studs if this is their first time out.

It's worth taking a break and ordering some Aero Kroil.

Then use a little Kriol, tap on them lightly to distribute and wait.

If you can borrow or buy the genuine Snap-On collet stud remover that's the best tool. Pricy.

I had success with the double nut and also additionally a vice grip on the stud. Bottom line is you will want to release the corrosion before you get a tool that has the grip to gall or tear the stud.

It is counterintuitive which of the doubled nuts to apply torque to to get the most grip without slippage. Test and experiment. It is a 25/75 difference.... Amazing.

And patience, Aero Kroil and a little tap tap tap to distribute and patience is the best way to get the studs out with minimal damage to the block.

Patience being the most important.

Remember fumes from a torch (not recommended) burning Kroil or any other rust-buster are very toxic.

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