Pearson Boats - Model Specific Discussion > P32

Worn Rudder Pivot plate

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libertyflyer:
Hello, towards the end of the season I felt a bit of play in the steering, especially down wind. I did notice a slight change in her pointing ability as well, and maybe felt a clunk when tacking.

I figured loose cables since we had done some wiring work last winter on the pedestal, where I had to loosen the cables to move the pedestal chain out of the way.  But it was late in the season, and visual inspection of the cables didn’t give me any concern, so we let it go until she was out on the hard.

Now she’s out and I can move the rudder back and forth about 1/4” at the lower pivot point where the rudder pin goes through the plate at the bottom of the small skeg.

I plan to remove the plate and have the material filled in by a welder, and redrill the center pivot hole.  It does not look like in need to drop the rudder to get the plate out.  We will see.

Has anyone experienced this before and have any tips?

I will post pics this weekend.  Thank you.

libertyflyer:
Posting some photos as I go of the lower rudder pivot.  Sorry for the sideways photos.  I sanded some of the paint off today to get a better idea of the size and the attachment points.  Appears to be only 3 large screws, and maybe some epoxy between the plate and the skeg bottom.

I gave the screws a twist and they didn't budge.  Sprayed some PB Blaster on them, and will come back with some Freeze-off spray, and an impact driver tomorrow.

Clearly visible is the worn pivot hole where the rudder pins sits.  This is the clunk when tacking, or slop in the wheel when downwind and following seas.

libertyflyer:
The three brass screws have made me think twice about this necessary project. I soaked them, banged them, soaked them, used and manual hammer driven impact driver, and didn’t get them to budge.

Came back a week later(yesterday), used the same process and brought my Makita impact gun and got them all to move about an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch left and right.  Going back today for another round.

Dolce_Vita:
Good luck.  Once they're moving, penetrant (like Kroil or PBBlaster) should be able to find its way in.  Slow and steady wins the race.  Can't tell you how many times I've gotten impatient and pushed a little too hard or too fast and sheared-off a screwhead!

Not to nit-pik, but I'm pretty sure they're Bronze, not Brass.  Brass should never be used below the waterline due to it's high Zinc content (not to mention its low strength).

libertyflyer:

--- Quote from: Dolce_Vita on December 01, 2019, 01:50:38 PM ---Good luck.  Once they're moving, penetrant (like Kroil or PBBlaster) should be able to find its way in.  Slow and steady wins the race.  Can't tell you how many times I've gotten impatient and pushed a little too hard or too fast and sheared-off a screwhead!

Not to nit-pik, but I'm pretty sure they're Bronze, not Brass.  Brass should never be used below the waterline due to it's high Zinc content (not to mention its low strength).

--- End quote ---

thanks for the advice, and the correction on the Bronze vs Brass snafu, much appreciated.   Slow and steady is the plan... Many other winter projects to tackle. so I mess with the screws for a few minutes until my arms get tired of holding the gun up, then go fiddle with the other things on the list.  She'll come off.  Any idea on the length of the screw?

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