Author Topic: Interior bulkheads and assorted woodwork  (Read 6617 times)

Valor

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Interior bulkheads and assorted woodwork
« on: February 25, 2019, 03:28:40 AM »
Would anyone know if the salon bulkheads are solid teak or is it a veneer? I will be refinishing the interior wood this spring and I am trying to prevent suprises while sanding.

Any other area's of the interior I need to be careful with?

What is the finish of choice? I'm considering a satin poly.

Thanks in advance
Michael M

1978 Pearson 323 Hull #108.
Yanmar 3GM30F

selene

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Re: Interior bulkheads and assorted woodwork
« Reply #1 on: February 25, 2019, 11:54:20 AM »
AFAIK all bulkheads are teak-faced marine ply. So be careful sanding!

Varnish is down to personal choice. In my case vertical surfaces are matt; horizontal surfaces (e.g. chart table) and trim pieces are all gloss.

Things downbelow look very nice if well varnished!  Just the right amount of wood...

Only think to be careful with is to remove - or cover well - your cushions. You don't want to splash varnish on them :-)

Bill1188

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Re: Interior bulkheads and assorted woodwork
« Reply #2 on: March 02, 2019, 11:47:55 AM »
I've been thinking of doing the same. What is the prep necessary to make sure varnish goes on properly? And if wood is washed out in some areas, does teak oil remedy that and then does varnish stick to teak oil?

selene

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Re: Interior bulkheads and assorted woodwork
« Reply #3 on: March 03, 2019, 01:40:23 PM »
Caveat: I am not a professional restorer! Am willing to learn if more knowledgeable people contribute.

Teak oil may prevent adhesion of varnish. The "may" comes from the fact that a product described as an "oil" can be almost anything from a true oil to diluted varnish (e.g. minwax "tung oil" which has almost no tung oil in it). Waxes, danish oils, shellacs (unless dewaxed first)...not so good adhesion. Note also that varnish generally prevents the use of oils!

I am told - no direct experience - that many oils over time deteriorate, becoming darker and stickier.

First step I would clean the wood with water and a mild detergent. Wipe on-wipe off; don't let too much water soak into the wood, it will raise the grain. Then the next step is a decision: strip and refinish, or move towards refinishing. In areas where old varnish is worn/black (e.g handrails), chemical or heat stripping may be the way to go. Finally, a gentle sanding - use a sanding block, and 200-300 grit sandpaper.


Gentle sanding may also even up the color; in many cases the varnish or oil, as it soaks into the wood, will itself bring the color back. Testing a small area first may be a good idea. I have been amazed at how some water stains vanish with a layer of finish (I apply it by hand with a balled up cloth).

With severe water staining you may need to re-stain the wood. Hint: a quick wipe with denatured alcohol will give you a better idea of what it will look like when varnished. If you follow this route, go slow, add many thin layers of stain to build the color up to a perfect match.

As for the interior finish, there is no consensus. Some prefer a quality teak oil (e.g.  Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil); others varnish.  Personally, I like the look of gloss varnish on horizontal surfaces and trim pieces; otherwise, matt - either oil or varnish, your preference.

Well, that is the brief version! hope it helps....

Valor

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Re: Interior bulkheads and assorted woodwork
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2019, 08:03:41 AM »
Embarrassing to say, there is a fantastic write up about the refinishing work, under the projects page of the main 323 website. I totally forgot that section was there.
Michael M

1978 Pearson 323 Hull #108.
Yanmar 3GM30F