Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Engine and Drive Train
Retrofitting gasoline Atomic 4
Dolce_Vita:
Hi Gary,
First, welcome to the forum!
I just had to put in my 2 cents worth here. Like Sea Haven, I too had no particular knowledge or attachment for the A4. In fact, I was one of those buyers who specifically wanted a diesel. Wiser friends convinced me that, if all else was right, an A4 engine should not eliminate the boat from consideration. I took their advice and have never regretted it.
--- Quote from: Moondance on April 28, 2015, 06:11:20 AM ---We have determined we need to replace our gasoline fueled Atomic 4.
--- End quote ---
First off, who is the "we" who have determined that the A4 needs replacement? The aforementioned "limited competent mechanics"? I have seen too many cases of diesel mechanics who recommend replacing an A4 that needs no more than new plugs and a little cleaning and tuning. The A4 is an incredibly tough, overbuilt little beast. There is little, other than a cracked block, that can completely kill one. Head over to the Moyer Marine Forum and describe your situation there. You'll get no end of really high quality help and information.
--- Quote from: Moondance on April 28, 2015, 06:11:20 AM ---...Like most others we prefer to complete the job in the most efficient and cost effective manner possible. I know I can get a completely overhauled A4 from Moyer Marine for around $5000 plus tax, shipping, installation and incidentals. Realistically $8,000 ballpark figure...
--- End quote ---
And the equivalent job for a diesel replacement is going to run you $17,000 - $20,000. That's more than I paid for my boat! The economics alone doesn't make sense.
--- Quote from: Moondance on April 28, 2015, 06:11:20 AM ---... I understand that means new mounting, shaft, prop and who knows what else....
--- End quote ---
Don't forget the fuel tank, controls, and ignition system.
Moondance:
Hello again and thanks to everyone who contributed their time and thoughts to my A4 issues. Sorry it took so long to return. We did complete the engine swap.
As with most everything in life, timing is everything. Some of the best advice we received was after we committed to a specific course of action. As Dolce Vita pointed out the "We" who determined the engine was bad was in large part the available mechanics of this area, but ultimately I took the mechanics advice to form my own opinions. I'm a capable but not an expert mechanic and new to boating, working in marinas on the docks, etc. Figuring out protocols and not getting myself in trouble over civil issues was all part of my concern. Looking back those concerns were warranted.
The decision to swap engines vs repair was based on low oil pressure, low compression and the known and unknown history of this engine prior to our ownership..
Without the knowledge and experience of the good folks at Moyer Marine this would never have happened the way it did. I am grateful for their resources. Final cost including installation as close as I can figure: $8,977. $1200 of that was overcharges from a disreputable mechanic. This did not include my time off work.
The job was finished back in June but it's never really finished is it?
Side note;
The sea trial involved 4 ft waves near shoals off of Bird Island, NC near the Little River, SC inlet during a full moon phase with an ebb tide. Did I mention my crew mate is prone to motion sickness? In spite of that, all was well with the world.
The new engine performed flawlessly for the 40 minutes to open ocean where we put Moondance through some testing for confidence's sake. Once convinced the engine would restart at will, we hoisted sail and enjoyed the favorable winds for the next hour and 1/2.
After securing the head and mainsails we restarted the engine with the inlet in sight and keeping a respectable distance from the shoals on the windward side. Once we were within 200 yards of the shoals demons within the engine compartment began shouting for my attention. I immediately shut down our shiny new pride and joy A4 to look for the possible cause of the grinding and crushing metal noises.
Couldn't find the cause so restarted the engine but it just wouldn't stay running for more than 3 or 4 seconds. It appeared to be fuel starvation. 24 hrs after being towed back to port I discovered a tightly packed spiders nest in the fuel tank vent. The new fuel pump had actually sucked in the sides of the metal fuel tank causing the crushing metal sound I heard over the sound of the running engine. There were no other issues. The engine has performed as expected since that day with 97 hrs on the Hobbs since then.
Now I'm looking to replace the choke cable. Finding one the proper length and quality has been a real challenge.
Alma:
Now that it is confirmed Diesel exhaust is carcinogenic- my hatred of Diesel fumes is tenfold. I have sailed and delivered many diesel powered craft both power and sail. Each one reminds me of the cute little powerhouse in my engine room. A-4- it doesn't get any better!
Strap on a NOS BALMAR 80 amp alternator and smart regulator and you'll be set!
Moondance:
I am currently trying to find a replacement cable for my Pearson 323. I read Don Moyer's opinion that the stiff single strand wire is a better option than a multistrand.
My 32 ft Pearson has 11 ft of choke cable. It really should be longer. My existing equipment has a steel multi strand cable inside a nylon tube which is then wrapped in vinyl to minimize the friction and allows a full range of operation even after bending around a wide radius. I have not found any replacement cables approximating the same combination of length, construction, quality and ease of operation found in the original cable, but the original one is damaged and worn out. The only replacements I can find are all wound steel around a stiff single strand wire. I have experimented with those in the 12 ft to 15 ft range. Even when stretched out straight they are difficult to operate. Some guidance and advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Gary
S/V Moondance
Dolce_Vita:
If you can't locate a cable to your liking, and you don't mind a little creativness, you might consider this alternative.
Over at the Moyer Marine Forum, two of the members ahve successfully adapted an automotive electric door lock motor as a choke controller. Sort of an "electric choke". The cable then gets replaced with some electrical wire and a switch, making it mechanically much simpler. It does restrict you to either "full choke" or "no choke", but this is the way most of us utilize our chokes almost all the time.
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=11327&stc=1&d=1450343154
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