Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Interior Structures
Replace Teak and Holly cabin Sole?
Rusty Pelican:
My bilge hatches are solid teak and holly, with a marine plywood cut out on the bottom to fit correctly on the cabin sole. The teak and holly lies on top of a glass sub deck. My entire cabin sole is all teak and holly, no glass.
The teak and holly sole was an upgrade option,as were many aspects with the P323. The standard cabin sole was glass. I would guess that your boat was factory glass and along the way an owner added a teak holly overlay.
I have seen the factory glass cabin sole boats and it looks like there are obvious spots for an overlay. I don't think you could cover the entire sole with an overlay, just spots; but I could be wrong.
Blue Heron:
--- Quote from: Rusty Pelican on January 22, 2015, 10:43:37 AM ---My bilge hatches are solid teak and holly, with a marine plywood cut out on the bottom to fit correctly on the cabin sole. The teak and holly lies on top of a glass sub deck. My entire cabin sole is all teak and holly, no glass.
The teak and holly sole was an upgrade option,as were many aspects with the P323. The standard cabin sole was glass. I would guess that your boat was factory glass and along the way an owner added a teak holly overlay.
I have seen the factory glass cabin sole boats and it looks like there are obvious spots for an overlay. I don't think you could cover the entire sole with an overlay, just spots; but I could be wrong.
--- End quote ---
i think mine is likely the factory option. My entire sole is also teak and holly, with the only visible pan being in the head area where there is a teak grate over the shower pan. My floor is also pretty thick, for instance, when I remove the small cutout/hatch around the mast, it is probably at least 1/2" thick. I'll take a better look at it, and maybe post a couple pictures next time I get out there (a couple weeks).
Blue Heron:
--- Quote from: Dolce_Vita on January 22, 2015, 09:13:40 AM ---Even if the wood is delaminated, you can remove it carefully and use the pieces as a template for cutting the replacements. Will save a whole lot of time.
--- End quote ---
Dolce_Vita, If I go forward with the replacement, that is exactly what I hope to do. I am just a bit worried about being able to make the bilge cut-outs with a nice tight fit, with the edges trimmed out and all. That part looks to be some pretty nice craftsmanship! Actually, the whole floor was very nicely done...it is a shame that the previous owner let it go for that long.
Blue Heron:
--- Quote from: Bill1188 on January 21, 2015, 08:49:32 PM ---Blue Heron, mine is a white pan under the floor. My wood is lucky, no delaminations and sufficient thickness. I am going to screw the floor back down and replace the bungs. Should look like new. Carpet would not be bad. White floor finished in non skid might be an option. I am going to leave the table pole out. Without it the interior seems twice the size.
--- End quote ---
Thanks for confirming that. I too have thought about removing the table pole, but, being able to position the table like that is so darn handy! I often position at a standing table height for working on various projects, and the ability to spin the table sideways allows use from the starboard side settee as well. I always raise it to the ceiling when not in use too, so, I am afraid I would really miss it if I took it out.
Bill1188:
At 6'5", if I put the table to the ceiling, I'm going to keep hitting my coconut on it. I am going to go with a new table positioned with the floor and table flanges spaced withe the fluted pipe. That way, I can put the whole thing away to really open up the cabin, use the table, and place the table for the double berth.
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