Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Ports & Hatches

Happy Holidays to my fellow 323 Enthusiasts! (also rebedding fixed ports)

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Sea Haven:
Yeah, I got some 2 oz kits leftover from other projects.

Travaco Marine-Tex Epoxy Putty Kit - 2 Ounce

Since it's "hidden" JB Cold Weld is the less expensive route as well as getting the job done too! 1/3 the price!

Epoxy, Marine Cold Weld, Dk Gry, 2 oz

Just to finish off and seal the edges.

"Sub" Ed

Dolce_Vita:

--- Quote from: Libations Too on April 02, 2015, 11:50:01 PM ---1. I noticed that the "gap" between inner liner and outer cabin is nonexistent in many places and very small in others. This is definitely different than photos that I have seen of other boats where the gap may have been 1/4 to 3/8 wide. Based on this and the experience of others on this site, I am thinking that I will not fill the gap with epoxy. Perhaps a hardwood spacer? Any thoughts about this approach?

--- End quote ---

The spacer and the filler serve two different purposes.  The spacer(s) get you an even gap, while the epoxy filler is to keep any water intrusion out of the liner. 

When I did the small opening port in the head, I too found a small gap that varied from 0 to 1/4".   For spacers, I used hardwood craft sticks (aka popsickle stiks) laminated 2  thick.  These were stuck in place with epoxy and then clamped to get a uniform gap all around. 



Once these set, I wetted down the whole gap, and filled it with thickened WEST G-Flex epoxy.  Even with the epoxy thickened to the consistency of peanut butter, it tended to sag overhead, and I found it necessary to shore it in place with blue painters tape until it set.

Libations Too:
Thanks Ed! Your repair looks great. I did see your photos on another post; I did not realize that you had similar, nonexistent gaps at some places. How did you choose the spacer thickness? Was it simply the thickness of the widest gap and then the smaller gaps were forced open to receive the spacer?

Libations Too:
Some progress photos below.

I cut 1/8-inch thick Doug fir shims to use as spacers between the inner liner and the outer cabin house. After dry fitting (and destroying some of the shims as I removed them) I realized that a rectangular cross section was not desired. I found that to fit well, they needed to be wedge shaped to accommodate the shape of the gap that I was trying to fill. The Doug fir worked easily with wood rasp and 100 grit sand paper. I inserted shims all the way around the port opening.

With unthickened epoxy, the liner/cabin house side walls (within the gap) and edges were coated with epoxy. After brushing epoxy onto both sides of the shim they were inserted into the gap and tapped into the gap creating a channel at least 1/4-inch deep. Clamps were applied and I retired home for a glass of wine! Many thanks to my wife who suited up to be my helper today...this job is definitely easier with two people working together.

Next step is to remove the clamps and fill the channel with Marine-tex epoxy putty. The aluminum frames are being powder coated and when finished, the fun of installing the glass can begin.

Alma:
Well- I just rebuilt my ports again. I guess the vinyl glazing channel is only good for about 13 years... Why it lasts indefinitely in shoreside storm windows is anyone's guess.

I really had a tough time removing the ports. I had used so much silicone bedding them last time, the channels in the extrusions were filled in places with silicone caulk. That prevented the hurky-jerky motion to lift the ports up and out. Last weekend I did the Port side. One day to remove the Port side ports and another day overhauling them and reinstalling them back at the boat yard. I also used Compass Butyl Caulk. I used two courses around the ports and another course at each end and another 2" section behind the seams. The caulk squeezed out nicely and was easy to clean up. I shall never again use silicone other than to bed plastic!

This last weekend I tackled the Starboard side pair. It took me three hours to get the caulk out of the channels and remove the aft port. I took my time and kept at it until the Starboard aft port was able to be pushed out of the cabin side. I pushed and POP- RIGHT OVER THE SIDE!!!!

I didn't bother running down the ladder to the boatyard's stone and mud- I really didn't give an earthworm's bottom what happened. It would've been the push I needed to 'glass up the sides and call NFM for new stainless opening ports.

Incredibly the window was UNDAMAGED!

The forward starboard side window came out in 20 minutes...

They are all back in and look good. We had our share of rain early this week- I'll go down tomorrow with a hose and see if they are watertight!

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