Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Mast and Spar Issues

Mast removal procedure

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Eddy:
Glad to hear you have yours back in. I had mine taken out on Tuesday and everything went very smooth. The actual time for the yard to remove was less than an hour. Thanks for the information on what to do that was key to having it done quickly. I had 6 wedges in mine made out of pvc and I did number them using a sharpie. The standing rigging on my boat is original and I'm going to replace it while its out. We found 2 pins that were the wrong size they were at the masthead end for the top spreaders. Did you remove the mast partner on the cabin top and rebed it? Mine looks to have been faired on the inside to the teak trim ring on the inside..not sure what they used but it's white in color and almost a plaster consistency.

Dolce_Vita:
My collar showed the remains of some fairing compound on the inside , down to the teak trim.  My trim had been removed and reattached sometime in the past, so it was no longer faired to the collar.  The rest was flaking off, and was quite thin, so I basically ignored it.

I left the collar in place.  It made it real easy to seal the mastless deck with a piece of leftover "cocooning" plastic and a bungee cord.  Didn't get a drop of water in all winter and spring.

The outside of the collar was covered with a lot of white aluminum corrosion.  I considered priming and painting the outside, but in the end just cleaned it up with a scotchbrite drill wheel designed for stripping paint.  Works much better than a wire wheel, and no steel wire bits left lying around to rust on the deck!

I too found that the upper shrouds had forks with 7/16" holes & pins, but the tangs on the mast had 1/2" holes!  This is generally regarded as a bad thing to do, an it increases point-loading on the tang holes and causes them to wear unevenly and elongate.  It seems that it is very difficult to get fork ends with 1/2" pins for 9/32" cable.  And they're expensive.  What my rigger did was to replace them with toggle-ends with 1/2" pins.  These fit properly, and are less expensive.

Also, in a departure from my previous plans, I decided to try a premade universal mast boot instead of the tape, since I could slip it on without cutting before the mast was re-stepped.  I figured if it didnt work, I could always cut it off and revert to rescue tape, but I couldn't go the other way around!

Eddy:
Mine had a universal boot in place as well and it was very dry. Could you tell me which universal boot you used? So I guess the 7/16" pin in the 1/2" hole was "standard" on our boats. My rigger also indicated this was a bad thing. How much play did you have in the forestay pin at the deck end? The hole on the chainplate was 9/16 and not elongated with a 1/2" pin. Rigger is going to make a bushing to take up that slack as well.

Dolce_Vita:
Don't remember the exact brand.  I'll check it tonight.

I have a sunbrella wrap/shroud with velcro closure that goes over the mast boot to protect it from UV degradation.

Interesting about your forestay.  I'm pretty sure mine is 1/2" but not positive, as I never measured that one, and the rigger handled the removal and reinstall of the furler.

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