Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Deck Mounted Hardware

looking for replacement teak rubrail strips

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The Great Godsea:
starboard rub rail has several pieces needing replacing. does anyone have a suggestion where we can purchase? thank you

Dolce_Vita:
Unfortunately, these will have to be custom fabricated from teak stock by a woodworker.

And I'm afraid it may turn into a major project.  The 323's two-piece rubrail design (top & side) makes it a more complex fabrication than a single strip.  The top surface portion appears to be built up out of a number of pieces that were scarf-jointed together before bending them to match the curve of the hull.

And of course, all of the deck hardware that's fastened through them (genoa track, bow & stern pulpits, stern light, etc) will have to be removed, and then reinstalled and rebedded.

Mine are in poor shape too, but I've been putting off doing anything about them.

If your boatyard has a resident woodworker, I suggest striking up a conversation with him and seeing what he thinks.  He may even know some tricks to make the job easier.

The Great Godsea:
thank you. solid advice

selene:
As Ed said, replacing the whole shebang would be a daunting undertaking. On the plus side, I am intending to rebed most of my hardware (over time) anyway, to ensure the core stays dry (drill oversize hole, fill with epoxy, redrill - so no exposed plywood)

My rubrails are 1/8"+ thinner than they started out, but still usable (barely).  I now don't sand them too much before finishing, as there is so little wood left, so the ridges show under close inspection - but it looks great a few feet away.  However, I did have to repair a 2"x 4" chunk out of one side....I used a "dutchman" repair (like this: http://www.blacksashvt.com/portfolio/charles-keeler-house-window-restoration/4242618).  So depending on the pieces needing replacement, some repairs may be possible. A competent woodworker can do a lot, but teak is EXPENSIVE (at least in CA), and you need to look at the remaining wood to see if it is worth doing the repair.

I wonder how the top and bottom/side pieces are joined?  Replacement of a side piece *could* be fairly straightforward; a strip of teak cut to size and shape, bent into place - the curve is very gentle - with scarf joints feathering the repair to the remaining wood.  Much easier than the top rail due to the orientation of the grain.  Screws and a gentle adhesive/caulking (4200 maybe?) would hold it.

I bet they steamed big pieces for the top rail, clamped them until they cooled, and then ripped them to make boards for the curves.  Economies of scale would have made it relatively inexpensive.

The Great Godsea:
Thanks very much. will post once i've figured out my plan of attack and located the right stock.

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