Pearson Boats - Common Systems > Deck Mounted Hardware

cockpit sole core repair

<< < (3/4) > >>

Rusty Pelican:
I would agree with that

selene:
I have not had any personal experience with G10 in this context - how is epoxy adhesion?

I have heard of G10 used as a seacock backing plate, and other small areas as supplemental reinforcement, but not inserted into a deck recore.  I can see the advantages (stiffer, rot proof) but I would be concerned about how it would adhere to the rest of the structure.  I wonder of you could rabbet it to make a solid fit?  I was thinking you would replace the sole with a new ply sheet, but now now you got me wondering too!

FYI:
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/general-discussion-sailing-related/96435-best-cheapest-place-get-g10-grp-boards.html

Eddy:
The G10 is epoxy based and so it will readily bond when laid in with an epoxy like MAS or West System. I'm going to use that to provide a solid base for the pedestal and grab rail to mount to.

I've also contacted Edson for the parts to rebuild the steering system while I have it all apart. The bottom plate that the sheaves mount to is steel from the factory. Edson only has a few of those plates left they are using aluminum now, this lowers the sheaves a 1/4". In addition the sheave mounts have been re-designed and in turn also lower the sheaves by another 1/4". If you use the new aluminum plate and the new sheave mounts you will have to drop your radial wheel by 1/2". After speaking to them I'm going to remove my existing plate and send it to them. They will press my sheave mounts to a new steel plate and send it back negating the need to move the radial wheel. The wheel is aluminum with stainless bolts connecting the two halves.

My steering cables were original! Pearson used nicopress fittings at the radial wheel end. You cannot get the original cables through the bottom plate without cutting them. Recommended service life on the cables is 5-7 years. The new cables come with a removable fitting at the radial wheel end allowing you to remove the cables without destroying them. I also ordered a complete rebuild kit for the steering shaft and a new brake. I figured I might as well do it all while I've got it apart. Going to add a NEMA 2000 cable as well in preparation for a new chartplotter.

Edson's technical support and customer service has been top notch. The parts are expensive but if the replacements hold up as well as the originals it will be money well spent.

selene:
Thanks for the photos and notes - very informative.

One thing clear from the photos - when you got the skin off - the work definitely needed to be done!

I am sure many of us will be watching with great interest as the work progresses.  Good luck - or, as the French say, "bon courage"!

Eddy:
This weekend I cut, fit and installed the coring and G10 for the binnacle. I attached a couple pictures, one of the dry fit, and another of the coring after glassing it in with the West System epoxy. I contoured the core around the rudder access so that the entire area for the plate is solid epoxy. My dockmate Joran found a flowerpot that fit into that hole snugly, that the yellow you can see in the second picture. Thanks Joran! I used Coosa bluewater 26 for the remaining areas that's the grey looking stuff. It is similar to plywood but a bit lighter and it does not absorb water. It was recommended by a local wizard with fiberglass and paint. The wife and I did get the top skin re-attached but I didn't get a picture of it. I covered with plastic and weighted it down with 2 50lb bags of sand, the flowerpot was left in place and I'll remove it once it is all cured. I also routed out the fuel window plate about 2" around and filled that with unthickened epoxy. Edson shipped out my parts on Friday so I should have them in hand today or tomorrow. Goal for the coming weekend is to feather the edge of the two skins and glass the seam.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page