Author Topic: Standing rigging  (Read 3622 times)

grzano

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Standing rigging
« on: March 08, 2022, 10:44:38 AM »
Hello all,

I am considering changing the rigging, it's perhaps 40 odd years old. I did not find any corrosion or broken wires at deck level, but have yet to go up the mast. I am considering pre-stretched or heat treated Dyneema, or similar product, regular swage and SS wire, or perhaps Norsman style fittings. I've ruled out the old galvanized wire methods.

Does anyone have any experience they could share in this regard?

Thank you,

Greg
I'd rather be sailing!

1978 323, Atomic 4

Dolce_Vita

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Re: Standing rigging
« Reply #1 on: March 08, 2022, 02:31:20 PM »
We used 1/4" 316 stainless on the lower shrouds and 9/32" 316 stainless on the forestay, backstay, and upper shrouds.
I did Norsman style fittings on all the deck height fittings, as it is possible to disassemble them and check for corrosion.
On the recommendation of several riggers, I used swage fittings for all the upper fittings, as they are not subjected
to the continuous bath of salt water, and the water drains away from the cable/fitting junction, which greatly
decreases the chance of water inrusion.
@(^.^)@  Ed
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grzano

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Re: Standing rigging
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2022, 10:05:42 PM »
Hi Ed,

I appreciate the advice. Can you let me know where you purchased the rigging? I am getting wild price swings. I'd rather go with a known supplier than throw a dart at the internet and hope for the best.

Did you also replace the chainplates?

Thank you for all of your contributions. I enjoy reading your posts.

Best,

Greg
I'd rather be sailing!

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Dolce_Vita

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Re: Standing rigging
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2022, 09:52:32 AM »
Our Marina is a working boatyard and the (late) owner was a master rigger, so I had them order the wire.  Might have been from Rigging Only, but I honestly don't remember for sure.

I inspected the chainplates and ended up replacing one of them that showed signs of leakage and a bit of corrosion.  Probably should just go ahead and replace the rest of them.  It wasn't a hard job.  I just took it out and had a local stainless fabricator duplicate it, as the holes were hand drilled, so not precisely lined up on anything.  They're just flat bar stock with no bends.

When reassembling, be sure to put the bolts thru the chainlpate first so that it rests on the unthreaded shoulder of the bolt.  My mechanical engineer friends tell me that resting on the threads causes stress concentrations which can lead to cracks.
@(^.^)@  Ed
1977 P-323 #42 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4

grzano

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Re: Standing rigging
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2022, 09:09:57 PM »
Ed. Thank you, I'll pull one and have 6 made.

Thank's again.

Greg
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Dolce_Vita

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Re: Standing rigging
« Reply #5 on: March 13, 2022, 12:32:08 PM »
Greg,

  Be careful, as I think they're all unique due to the hand-drilling of the holes.  It was quite noticable on the one I removed.  My fabricator had to use the old one as a template to drill the holes in the new one in order to get it to fit back on the existing holes in the fiberglass knees.

Also, the ones for the upper shrouds are longer and have one more hole than the ones on the lower shrouds.
« Last Edit: March 13, 2022, 12:34:19 PM by Dolce_Vita »
@(^.^)@  Ed
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grzano

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Re: Standing rigging
« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2022, 04:59:38 PM »
Ed,

I appreciate your reply. I'll have the mast pulled and then have all six made, plus the back stay. I pulled up one of the covers today and found rust below the deck cover plate. I'ts time.

Thank you,

Greg
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selene

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Re: Standing rigging
« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2022, 03:49:00 AM »
FWIW, I pulled my chainplates and sent them to Garhauer to use as templates. As always, they did a great job, at a reasonable price.

Mine looked fine, but after 40 years, I thought better safe than sorry. If you can see rust I would not hesitate!