Author Topic: Removing Atomic 4  (Read 7500 times)

Scott

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Removing Atomic 4
« on: September 05, 2017, 07:47:37 PM »
Just wondering if someone out there that has removed the A4 out of their boat that can give me some tips and pointers. First question is does the transmission have to come out with it, or is there room to get it out without taking the trans too. My thought is that it would eliminate the realigning of the shaft down the road.

Chance

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Re: Removing Atomic 4
« Reply #1 on: September 18, 2017, 07:21:04 PM »
I have hull number 10, since 1977, Chance. We have done a great deal of motoring in the last 40 years.  I have removed the entire engine and the V-drive 3 times myself.  Last time I shipped the engine out to Moyer Marine. The entire engine and the v-drive will come out of the opening hatch by the ladder in one piece.  Before starting, cover the bulk head so you don't scratch it.  My experience is to label everything on both ends of the hoses and do some simple drawings so you know how to get it back into place.  Label everything, wires, hoses, etc.  Remove the silverware storage bin behind the ladder on top the counter (four screws).  Take a 4 x 4 and span your hatch opening with two feet extending on each side.  Put some 2 x 4s under the 4 x 4s to spread the weight out.  Now hook on a come along or lifting device onto the engine lift bracket located on the head of the engine and connect to the 4 x 4 - you will need to do the first pick through the silverware opening.  Lift engine off mounting brackets, then shift the 4 x 4 towards the bow.  Simultaneously, pull the engine out as far as you can into the main cabin as you lower it onto scrap lumber.  If you have a crane available, pick from this location through the hatch.  If not, unhook engine, reposition your 4 x 4 to complete a second pick that is outside of your silverware drawer.  Crank the engine up off the floor as high as you can, then lay some plywood down on the bridge deck and set there.  At this point, two guys could pick up and move to bridge deck too and even off the boat. You could also hook onto your boom with the support of halyards and take it off that way.  After cleaning and painting your engine compartment, it's easy to set back up similar to how you took out.  When you have it back in and mounted, you can do a rough realignment of the prop shaft to the engine.  You should really realign once the boat is in the water as needed - you do this with feeler gauges. Adjust the mounting screws on your engine so you can get prop shaft aligned with the engine. Good luck! Bob K (Chance #10) if you have questions, let me know.

Alma

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Re: Removing Atomic 4
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2017, 03:47:34 PM »
Fantastic!

I have always wanted to hear an alternative to cutting up the galley. Nice writeup!

Is there any benefit to removing manifold, alternator and Vee Drive if working alone?

My engine #74 runs very well but uses oil. Magically it uses less oil today then it did years ago... I don't kid myself that it will continue this path so removing it and sprucing it up was always limited by the butchering of the galley. With all that use did you find a need to overhaul the transmission or Vee Drive?

I had seen 323s with 'new' engines that had not been cut up but never in 20 years an accurate description like yours. I had resigned myself to living with the oil consumption since plug fouling and smoke are not an issue- but now I might consider refreshing it.
I have overhauled Porsche, BMW, Datsun, Mercedes engines and transmissions so I'd really like to make my beloved Atomic Four as-new.

Thanks,

Gene
« Last Edit: September 19, 2017, 03:51:30 PM by Alma »

Chance

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Re: Removing Atomic 4
« Reply #3 on: September 20, 2017, 10:05:22 PM »
Gene,
You might take the alternator off after first pick.  It's easy to get at.  I did not and Moyer Marine did not touch the transmission and V drive, except to change the fluid, and inspect the gears.

Bob K Chance 323 1977

Alma

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Re: Removing Atomic 4
« Reply #4 on: September 23, 2017, 07:24:02 PM »
sounds good!

Scott

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Re: Removing Atomic 4
« Reply #5 on: September 24, 2017, 08:19:28 PM »
We took the engine out yesterday. Lifted it by using the boom supported by two halyards. Used a fulcrum or lever effect to raise engine off the motor mounts then pulled out of engine compartment out onto cabin floor below hatch. So far so good. Now for rebuild. Scott

Scott

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Re: Removing Atomic 4
« Reply #6 on: January 26, 2018, 06:31:52 PM »
Does anyone know a good source of Atomic Four parts in Canada?

Scott

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Re: Removing Atomic 4
« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2018, 07:02:49 AM »
Just an end of season update. We got the engine back in after the rebuild and it now runs like a new engine, other than the fact it started to overheat towards the end of the summer! In the process of winterized get now and find that the raw water pump does not seem to be pumping, or at least it will not suck the antifreeze out of the jug into which I put intake hose into. Wondering if maybe it has a priming problem because it was pumping water just before haul out. Always something I guess. Scott

Chance

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Re: Removing Atomic 4
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2018, 07:56:19 PM »
Scott I have an atomic 4 in Chance Pearson 323 hull 10.  The water pump does not need to be primed.  I would take the cover off the pump and see if the impeller is in good shape. Look to see if all the blades are on it.  Make sure a blade is not torn off the impeller an blocking the intake or engine side of the pump.   If they are ok, I would try turning the impeller and see how easily it turns if it is on the shaft properly.  If that is ok, I would spray the impeller with WD40 so the rubber impeller will be lubed and then touch the starter button and see if the propeller turns properly.  Good luck BoB K CHANCE

Alma

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Re: Removing Atomic 4
« Reply #9 on: November 13, 2018, 09:40:05 PM »
Any small leak at the barb fittings will allow the pump to suck air and not prime.

When the boat is in the water the pump is below the waterline so it holds a prime. Once you try with a bucket of antifreeze it can suck air at the pumps barb fitting-
« Last Edit: November 13, 2018, 09:44:57 PM by Alma »